Pickled Swordfish

KILIC BALIGI TURSUSU

TURKEY

Most Muslim coastal countries have their own way of preserving fish, with drying being the most common; but Turks also pickle fish. When treated this way, the fish keeps for only a couple of weeks in the refrigerator. And if left at room temperature, it will last for only 2 or 3 days. This recipe goes back to Ottoman times when it was served as part of a mezze spread.

SERVES 6 TO 8

Good pinch of saffron threads

2½ cups (625 ml) apple cider vinegar

3 swordfish steaks (about ½ pound/225 g each)

Sea salt

⅓ cup (80 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

1 teaspoon ground cloves

1 tablespoon dried currants

1 tablespoon pine nuts

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

6 cloves garlic, quarterered lengthwise

A couple of handfuls fresh or dried bay leaves, and if possible (optional) a few bitter orange or lemon leaves

2 tablespoons honey

1. Put the saffron to steep in ½ cup (125 ml) of the vinegar.

2. Pat the fish steaks dry with paper towels, then rub with a little salt. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat until hot. Slip the swordfish into the pan and fry 3 to 4 minutes on each side, until lightly golden. Remove to a plate.

3. Mix the ground cardamom and cloves in a small bowl. Mix the currants, pine nuts, and peppercorns in another small bowl. Have the garlic at hand, ready to use.

4. Line an 8-inch (20 cm) round dish that is 4 inches (10 cm) deep with a few bay leaves and a couple citrus leaves if you are using them. Place a swordfish steak on the leaves. Sprinkle with one-third of the cardamom/clove mixture. Scatter one-third of the currant/pine nuts/peppercorn mixture and one-third of the cut garlic. Repeat the layering two more times. Cover with a final layer of leaves.

5. Pour the remaining 2 cups (500 ml) vinegar into a small saucepan. Add the honey and bring to a boil over medium heat. Let bubble for a couple of minutes, then take off the heat. Let cool before adding the saffron vinegar. Mix the pickling solution well.

6. Put the fish dish on a large rimmed plate to catch the pickling solution that will spill over as you weight the fish. Pour the pickling solution over the fish, being careful not to displace the bay leaves. Invert a plate over the fish and place a weight on the plate. The excess vinegar will overflow and this is how it should be. Refrigerate or place in a cool place. The fish will be ready after 2 or 3 days, and it will last for up to 10 days if kept in an airtight container in a cool place or the refrigerator. Serve as part of a mezze spread.