BRIOUAT BEL BEID
MOROCCO
Briouats are the Moroccan version of the Turkish boreks or the Lebanese/Syrian fatayer, or the Indian/Pakistani samosas. They are simple and quick to make, and in this version the filling is wonderfully moist, making a scrumptious contrast with the crunchy pastry. The subtle hint of saffron elevates the eggs. You could also serve the scrambled eggs and herb filling on toast as a quick starter or a light meal. The trick here is to cook the eggs just right: If undercooked, they’ll sog up the pastry; if cooked too much, they will continue to cook inside the pastry and become rubbery. In Morocco they deep-fry the briouats, but I prefer to bake them.
MAKES 16 PASTRIES
FOR THE SCRAMBLED EGGS
¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
3 medium onions (1 pound/450 g total), finely chopped (about 3 cups)
2 ounces (60 g) cilantro, most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
2 ounces (60 g) flat-leaf parsley, most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
Good pinch of saffron threads
¼ teaspoon finely ground black pepper
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
8 organic eggs
Sea salt
FOR THE BRIOUATS
16 sheets phyllo dough (12½ x 7 inches/32 x 18 cm)
7 tablespoons (105 g) unsalted butter, melted
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying (optional)
1. To make the scrambled eggs: Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté, stirring regularly, until soft and transparent. Add the herbs and spices. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 5 more minutes.
2. Meanwhile, beat the eggs with salt to taste.
3. When the onions are completely soft, add the eggs and scramble for 7 to 10 minutes, or until just set. Don’t let them stay too runny or they will sog up the pastry. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Let cool.
4. To make the briouats: Fold a sheet of phyllo in half lengthwise and brush with melted butter. Place 1½ tablespoons filling at the end nearest to you and slightly in from the edges. Fold a bottom corner of the pastry over the egg filling to form a triangle, then continue folding to maintain the triangle shape until you reach the other end. The filling should be completely encased. If there is a little phyllo still loose, either cut it or fold it to be on the bottom of the pastry. Brush with butter and make the other briouats in the same way.
5. To bake the briouats: Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Bake the briouats for 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown. Place on a wire rack to cool a little. Serve warm.
6. To deep-fry the briouats: Place a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet. Pour 2 inches (5 cm) of oil into a large deep skillet. Heat the oil over medium heat until hot (if you drop a piece of bread in the oil, the oil should immediately bubble around it). Drop as many briouats as will fit comfortably in the pan and fry for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, or until golden brown all over. Transfer to a wire rack to let the excess oil drain off. Serve hot or warm.