Feast

GADO GADO

INDONESIA

When I visited Indonesia, half of my time there happened to be during Ramadan when street vendors seem to multiply, selling all kinds of snacks and dishes to those fasting and not having the time to cook at home. In Banda Aceh, I went to one street where most of the vendors specialized in the sweet snacks (takjil) and drinks that people break their fast with, but one cart had gado gado (gado means “mix” and gado gado means “mixes,” because this salad is made of so many different ingredients). The vendor had his ingredients piled in different mounds inside the cart with a wide mortar to one side, which he used to grind batch after batch of the seasoning ingredients for the salad, which is eaten as a snack or as a meal. The version I give here is served with a peanut-based dressing, whereas on some islands, the dressing has a coconut cream base.

SERVES 2 TO 4

FOR THE DRESSING

1½ cups (225 g) raw peanuts

6 mild red chilies, trimmed

1 bird’s eye chili, trimmed

¼ teaspoon shrimp paste (terasi)

1 tablespoon seedless tamarind paste, diluted with 2 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons palm sugar, grated

Sea salt

FOR THE SALAD

2 medium potatoes, boiled, peeled, and cut into medium-thin rounds

2 hard-boiled organic eggs, peeled and cut into wedges

5 ounces (150 g) cauliflower florets, cooked until crisp-tender

5 ounces (150 g) cabbage, finely shredded and blanched

5 ounces (150 g) asparagus beans, cut into medium pieces, cooked until crisp-tender

1 small cucumber, peeled and thinly sliced

5 ounces (150 g) tempeh, sliced into 4 portions, shallow-fried in vegetable oil

1. Preheat the oven to 450°F (220°C).

2. To make the dressing: Spread the peanuts on a nonstick baking sheet. Toast in the hot oven for 7 to 8 minutes, or until golden brown. Let cool, then process in a food processor until finely chopped. Transfer to a medium bowl.

3. Put the chilies and shrimp paste in the food processor and process until you have a fine paste. Add to the peanuts. Strain the tamarind paste into a small bowl and add to the peanuts and chili paste. Add the palm sugar and ⅔ cup (160 ml) water and season with salt to taste. Mix well. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

4. To assemble the salad: Arrange the ingredients on a serving platter, making a separate mound of each ingredient, and add a few crackers. Serve with the dressing on the side.