Feast

MIRZA GHASSEMI

IRAN

There are many versions of mirza ghassemi. I don’t think I had it tasting the same from one home or restaurant to another. A Gilaki specialty (meaning from the northern province of Gilan in Iran), mirza ghassemi is a delightful half dip, half spread that is ideal for those who do not eat meat, as it combines eggs for protein with eggplants and tomatoes for freshness. It is found throughout the country both in homes and restaurants. Iranian cooks normally use vegetable oil, but I prefer to use olive oil.

SERVES 4 TO 6

Pinch of saffron threads

3 large eggplants (2 pounds/900 g total)

¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

4 cloves garlic, minced to a fine paste

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

4 medium tomatoes (14 ounces/400 g total), peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped

Sea salt and finely ground black pepper

3 organic eggs, lightly beaten

Barbari or lavash bread, for serving

1. Put the saffron to soak in 1 tablespoon water.

2. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

3. Prick the eggplants in several places and place on a baking sheet. Bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until very soft, turning them halfway through. Cut the eggplants in half and scoop the flesh out. Place in a sieve to let the excess liquid drain away. Mash the eggplant with a potato masher—you do not want to do this in a food processor as the mashed eggplant needs to retain some, albeit soft, texture.

4. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and stir for a minute or so, until the garlic starts sizzling and is fragrant. Add the turmeric and mix well. Add the tomatoes and cook until the tomatoes have softened and reduced to a thick sauce, 15 to 20 minutes.

5. Add the mashed eggplant and sauté for a few minutes, or until all the excess liquid has evaporated. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

6. Stir the beaten eggs into the eggplant/tomato mixture. Continue stirring until the eggs have set to your liking. It is important not to have any liquid left in the pan. Add the saffron water and mix well. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Cover the pan loosely with a clean kitchen towel. Let cool. Transfer to a serving dish. Serve warm or at room temperature with bread.