Smoky Eggplant Dip

BABA GHANNUGE

LEBANON | SYRIA | JORDAN | PALESTINE

Together with hummus, this is the classic mezze dip that in Lebanon is called baba ghannuge and in Syria mutabbal. There is this rather puzzling habit in the Muslim world to switch names of dishes from one country to another: for example, the word tagine in Tunisia is a kind of frittata but in Morocco it is a stew. Mutabbal in Lebanon describes a grilled eggplant salad, which in Syria is called baba ghannuge, and at the beginning, when I was less aware of these quirks in naming dishes, I would get annoyed in Syrian restaurants thinking I had ordered one dish only to be presented with another.

SERVES 4 TO 6

FOR THE DIP

6 large eggplants (about 9 ounces/250 g each)

¼ cup (60 ml) tahini

1 to 2 cloves garlic, minced to a fine paste

Juice of 1½ lemons, or to taste

Sea salt

FOR SERVING

Fresh pomegranate seeds (ideally sour pomegranate)

Extra-virgin olive oil

Flatbread

1. Position a rack as close to the heat as you can (without the eggplant touching the heating element) and preheat a broiler to very high.

2. Prick the eggplants in several places to stop them from bursting. Place on a nonstick baking sheet and broil for 20 to 25 minutes on each side. The skins should become somewhat charred—this will give the dip the smoky flavor that is so typical.

3. Remove the broiled eggplants to a large cutting board. Cut each in half and scoop out the flesh. Place the flesh in a sieve and let sit for 30 minutes or so to drain the excess liquid.

4. Mash the eggplant in a large wide bowl, using a fork or a potato masher—do not use a food processor; the dip should have some texture. Add the tahini, garlic, lemon juice, and salt to taste. Mix well. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

5. Transfer to a medium shallow serving bowl and make grooves here and there. Garnish the peaks with pomegranate seeds and drizzle a little olive oil in the grooves. Serve with good bread.