Stuffed Grape Leaves Cooked on a Bed of Lamb Chops

MEHSHI WARAQ ‘ENAB MA’ KASTALETTAH

LEBANON | SYRIA | JORDAN | PALESTINE

This is the Lebanese/Syrian version of stuffed grape leaves cooked on a bed of lamb chops, and when done, the stuffed leaves are inverted onto a platter to form a cake with the lamb chops on top. It is one of the Levant’s most festive dishes, always prepared when people receive honored guests or for special celebrations. When unripe green gage plums come into season in April/May, the dish can also include these for an extra sour note, already provided by the lemon juice added to the cooking liquid. A word of advice: Allow plenty of time to prepare this dish as it is fairly time-consuming, especially if you are not familiar with rolling stuffed grape leaves. In Iran, the rice is cooked prior to using in the stuffing, whereas in Lebanon it is not, so when you are rolling the leaves, roll the leaf loosely around the stuffing to allow room for the rice to expand.

SERVES 4

FOR THE STUFFING

Scant ⅔ cup (125 g) Egyptian or Calasparra rice, rinsed

7 ounces (200 g) lean ground lamb

½ teaspoon ground allspice

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon finely ground black pepper

Sea salt

FOR THE LAMB CHOPS

8 thin lamb chops (1 pound 7 ounces/650 g total), most of the fat trimmed

Sea salt

1 cinnamon stick

FOR THE STUFFED GRAPE LEAVES

7 ounces (200 g) fresh or preserved medium grape leaves

Sea salt

Juice of 1 lemon, or to taste

1¾ cups (16 ounces/450 g) Greek yogurt, for serving

1. To make the stuffing: Put the rice in a large mixing bowl. Add the ground lamb and 2 tablespoons water. Season with the allspice, cinnamon, pepper, and salt to taste and mix well—we do it by hand to make sure the rice is well blended with the meat. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

2. To prepare the lamb chops: Put the lamb chops in a medium pot, and add water to cover by 2 inches (5 cm). Bring to a boil over medium heat, skimming the froth from the surface. Add a little salt and the cinnamon stick. Cover the pot and cook for 15 minutes, until they are just done. Lift the chops out and reserve the broth for later. Choose a pot with straight sides that’s large enough to hold the chops in a tight, even layer over the bottom. Arrange the lamb in the pot.

3. To make the stuffed grape leaves: If you are using fresh grape leaves, put them in a colander and run boiling water over them. This will soften them and make them easier to roll. If you are using preserved leaves, rinse them under cold water, at least a couple of times, to get rid of the briny taste.

4. Take a grape leaf and cut away the stem, if any, then lay flat on your work surface, smooth side down with the stem end nearest to you. Arrange from ½ to 1½ teaspoons stuffing, depending on the size of the leaf, in a thin raised line across the stem end of the leaf, about ½ inch (1 cm) away from the edge and more or less the same distance from the sides. Fold the sides over the rice, in a line that slightly tapers toward the bottom, then fold and tuck the stem end over the stuffing and roll neatly but loosely, to leave enough space for the rice to expand during cooking.

5. Place the rolled grape leaf, with the loose end down, on the lamb chops, starting from the side of the pot. Continue filling, rolling, and arranging the grape leaves, side by side, doing layer after layer, and not packing them too tightly, until you have finished both leaves and stuffing. (If you have any leftover stuffing, cook it as a side dish: Put it in a small pan, add an equal amount of water, and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, or until tender.)

6. Pour enough reserved broth over the rolled leaves so it just barely covers them—if you do not have enough broth, add water. Add salt to taste and swirl the stock around to dilute the salt. Put an overturned heatproof plate over the leaves to stop them from unrolling during cooking and cover the pan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to medium and let bubble gently for 45 minutes. Add the lemon juice and cook for another 15 minutes. It is a good idea to test one grape leaf before you take them off the heat, to make sure that the rice is cooked.

7. Remove from the heat and let the stuffed grape leaves sit, covered, for about 15 minutes. Wearing heatproof gloves, hold the leaves back with the plate covering and pour off the cooking juices into a medium bowl. Remove the plate. Invert a big round flat serving platter over the top of the pot. Hold it firmly against the pot with the palm of one hand. Then, slide the pot slowly over the edge of the counter and support it with your other hand. Lift the pot up and quickly turn it upside down. Slide the platter back onto your kitchen counter and slowly lift the pot off to uncover a cake of grape leaves topped with juicy lamb chops. (If you find this operation too cumbersome, simply spoon the rolled leaves out, a few at a time and arrange them in neat layers on a serving platter. Arrange the lamb chops over the stuffed leaves or around them.)

8. Baste with some of the cooking juice and serve immediately with a bowl of yogurt on the side.