DOLME-YE BARG-E MO
IRAN
Dolma in Turkish, dolme in Persian, and mehshi in Arabic are all names to describe stuffed vegetables, said to have originated in Persia. Mīrzā ‘Alī-Akbar Khan Āšpaz-bāšī, chef to the court of Nāṣ er-al-Dīn Shah (1264–1313/1848–95—the first set of dates are for the hijri or Muslim calendar), recorded dolma as a category of Persian cuisine and gave recipes for stuffing grape leaves, cabbage leaves, cucumbers, eggplants, apples, and quince. They are one of the crowning glories of Levantine and Iranian cooking and no menu for a special meal, either celebratory or casual, would be complete without at least one type present at the table.
This recipe is for the Iranian version of stuffed grape leaves, where the stuffing is heavy on herbs and the stuffed leaves are cooked in a tamarind sauce. You can also cook them with lemon juice or verjuice (see Variation), and in early spring, consider layering a few green gage plums here and there between the rolled leaves for an extra special tartness.
SERVES 6 TO 8
FOR THE STUFFING
1 cup (200 g) short-grain rice, rinsed
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
Sea salt
Heaping ¼ cup (60 g) yellow split peas
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 large onions (14 ounces/400 g total)—1 grated and the other halved lengthwise and cut into thin wedges
1 pound 2 ounces (500 g) lean ground lamb
1¼ bunches flat-leaf parsley (9 ounces/250 g), most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
A few sprigs tarragon, leaves stripped off the stems, finely chopped
A few sprigs marjoram, leaves stripped off the stems
A few sprigs dill, bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
Sea salt and finely ground black pepper
FOR THE SAUCE
⅔ cup (120 g) seedless tamarind paste
4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter, melted
FOR THE GRAPE LEAVES
Vegetable oil
60 brine-packed grape leaves, soaked in hot water to get rid of the saltiness, plus a few extra for lining the pan
1. To make the stuffing: Put the rice in a medium pot and add water to cover by 1½ inches (3 cm). Add the turmeric and 1 tablespoon sea salt. Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook for 3 minutes. Drain.
2. Put the split peas in a small pot and add water to cover by 1½ inches (3 cm). Bring to a boil over medium heat, then reduce the heat and let bubble gently for about 30 minutes, or until tender but not mushy. Drain.
3. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the sliced onion and let sizzle, then reduce the heat and fry, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft and golden. Add the ground lamb and stir, breaking up any lumps, until the meat is no longer pink. Mix in the boiled rice, split peas, chopped herbs, ground spices, and salt and pepper to taste.
4. To make the sauce: Put the tamarind paste in a medium bowl. Add 1 cup (250 ml) hot water and let sit while you roll the grape leaves, stirring from time to time to help the paste dissolve in the water. Then strain through a fine-mesh sieve and mix with the melted butter.
5. To stuff the grape leaves: Now comes the time-consuming part. Drizzle a little oil over the bottom of a medium pot and line the bottom with a layer of loose grape leaves. Take a grape leaf, cut away the stem, if any, and lay it flat on your work surface, smooth side down with the stem end nearest to you. Depending on how big the leaf is, spread 2 to 3 teaspoons stuffing in a thin raised line across the leaf, about ½ inch (1 cm) away from the beginning of the stem and a little more distance short from either side. Fold the sides over the rice, in a line that slightly tapers toward the bottom, then fold the stem edge over the stuffing and roll neatly to completely encase the stuffing. Place the rolled grape leaf, with the loose end down on the grape leaves lining the bottom of the pot, starting from the side of the pan. Continue filling, rolling, and arranging the grape leaves, side by side, doing one layer after the other, and not packing them too tightly, until you have finished both leaves and stuffing.
6. Pour the tamarind sauce over the grape leaves and invert a plate over the grape leaves to weight them down and stop them from unfolding as they cook. Cover the pot and place over medium heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and let simmer for about 1 hour, or until the leaves and filling are tender. It is a good idea to taste one stuffed leaf before taking the pot off the heat to make sure it is done. Serve hot.
STUFFED GRAPE LEAVES WITH LEMON OR VERJUICE: Replace the tamarind sauce with this: Soak a good pinch of saffron in 2 tablespoons water in a small saucepan for 15 minutes. Add 4 tablespoons butter and place over low heat. Let simmer for 5 minutes. Combine ¾ cup (180 ml) lemon juice or verjuice, and ¼ cup (50 g) raw cane sugar, and add to the saffron/butter mixture. Mix well, then add to the stuffed grape leaves the same way as with the tamarind sauce and cook as directed.
STUFFED GRAPE LEAVES WITH POMEGRANATE SAUCE: Replace the tamarind sauce with this: Soak a good pinch of saffron in 2 tablespoons water in a small saucepan for 15 minutes. Add 4 tablespoons butter and place over low heat. Let simmer for 5 minutes. Mix 1 cup (250 ml) water with ½ cup (125 ml) pomegranate molasses. Add to the saffron/butter mixture. Mix well and add to the stuffed grape leaves the same way as with the tamarind sauce and cook as directed.