Feast

SHEIKH EL-MEHSHI

LEBANON

This dish is considered to be the most elegant of all stuffed vegetable dishes as indicated by its Arabic name, which translates as “the lord of stuffed vegetables.” Use small Japanese eggplants for a beautiful presentation. Sheikh el-mehshi is said to have originated in the Aleppo/Damascus region and was made with greens. It is one of Ottoman cuisine’s most famous dishes, going back to the eighteenth century. Serve the eggplants with plain rice.

SERVES 4

FOR THE STUFFING

⅓ cup (50 g) pine nuts

3 tablespoons (45 g) unsalted butter

5 ounces (150 g) ground lean lamb

½ teaspoon ground allspice

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon finely ground black pepper

Sea salt

FOR THE EGGPLANTS

12 Japanese eggplants, each about 4 inches (10 cm) long, with the stems on (1¾ ounces/50 g each)

Vegetable oil, for deep-frying

FOR THE TOMATO TOPPING

Two 14-ounce (400 g) cans whole peeled tomatoes, drained and finely chopped

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

⅛ teaspoon finely ground black pepper

Sea salt

1. Preheat the oven to 450°F (220°C).

2. To make the stuffing: Spread the pine nuts on a nonstick baking sheet and toast in the oven for 5 to 7 minutes, or until golden brown. Keep the oven on, but reduce the temperature to 350°F (180°C).

3. Melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the lamb and cook until it loses all traces of pink. Keep mashing and stirring it with a wooden spoon or fork so that it separates well and does not form lumps. Take off the heat. Season with the allspice, cinnamon, pepper, and salt to taste. Add the toasted pine nuts and mix well. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

4. To prepare the eggplants: Trim the stems of the eggplants back to about ½ inch (1.25 cm) above the calyxes (caps). Peel the eggplants in lengthwise stripes about ½ inch (1.25 cm) wide.

5. Pour 2 inches (5 cm) vegetable oil into a large deep skillet and heat over medium heat until hot—test by dropping a piece of bread in it; if the oil immediately bubbles around it, it is ready. Fry the eggplants until golden all over. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on several layers of paper towel.

6. Take one eggplant and with a small knife, slit it lengthwise down the middle—the peeled section will cut more easily—no more than halfway into the flesh. Gently pry the eggplant open and press on the flesh inside to form a pocket in which you will put 1 tablespoon meat stuffing. Place in a deep oven-to-table baking dish and fill the rest of the eggplants in the same way. If there is any leftover stuffing, spread it on the bottom of the dish between the eggplants.

7. To make the tomato topping: Season the chopped tomatoes with the allspice, cinnamon, pepper, and salt to taste.

8. Spread the tomato sauce evenly all over the bottom of the baking dish in between the eggplants. Bake for 40 minutes, or until the tomatoes have softened and most of their juice has evaporated. Serve hot.

YOGURT SAUCE: There is an interesting northern variation in which the tomato topping is replaced with a yogurt sauce. Make the meat mixture and stuff the eggplants as directed. Arrange the eggplants in a wide sauté pan that will take the stuffed eggplants in one layer and is deep enough to also take the yogurt sauce. Omit the tomato mixture. Make the Cooked Yogurt Sauce, but use 3 tablespoons dried mint instead of a fresh herb. Mix the mint and garlic into the cooked yogurt and pour it hot over the eggplants. Simmer over very low heat for 10 minutes. (This version is cooked on the stovetop instead of baking, because the yogurt may curdle in the oven.)