M’HANNCHA
MOROCCO
When home cooks plan to make m’hanncha at home, they will rarely make the warqa, the Moroccan equivalent of phyllo dough. Instead they will buy it at the market or at pastry shops, made by women who are warqa specialists; or they will ask the specialist warqa maker to come to their home to make it in situ. Unlike the Cornes de Gazelles, where you need to make the pastry as well as the almond paste, these are much quicker to prepare as you only have to make and shape the almond paste filling. Despite having the same flavor as that of cornes de gazelle, m’hanncha are different in that they are a lot crunchier, not to mention that the shape is also different. Moroccans will usually have a tray of sweets on which they will have different types, including these and the cornes de gazelles to offer with Mint Tea. They very rarely serve them as dessert, unless it is for a diffa (a word that means “invitation” and refers to a celebratory or special occasion meal).
MAKES ABOUT 20
FOR THE FILLING
3⅓ cups (500 g) blanched almonds, soaked for 1 hour in boiling water
1¼ cups (150 g) powdered sugar
¼ cup (60 ml) orange blossom water
2 tablespoons (30 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¼ teaspoon ground mastic (see Glossary)
FOR THE SPIRALS
20 sheets phyllo dough (measuring7¼x 12¾ inches/18 x 32 cm but more common are shorter sheets)
10 tablespoons (150 g) unsalted butter, melted
1. To make the filling: Drain the almonds well and spread to dry on a kitchen towel. Put the almonds and powdered sugar in a food processor and process until very finely ground. Add the orange blossom water, butter, and mastic and process until well blended.
2. Transfer the almond paste to a work surface and roll into a sausage shape. Divide into 20 equal pieces and shape each first into a ball, then into a long, thin sausage measuring 10¾ inches (27 cm) long. Cover with plastic wrap.
3. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat (or use a nonstick sheet).
4. To make the spirals: Lay a sheet of phyllo on a work surface with a long side facing you and brush with melted butter. Lay an almond “sausage” about ½ inch (1 cm) away from the edge nearer you and about 1 inch (2.5 cm) away from the ends. Fold the ½ inch (1 cm) of phyllo over the almond cylinder and roll, keeping the phyllo very close to the filling as you roll over it. Brush the roll with butter and, with the loose end down, fold one empty edge and start rolling into a coil, sliding the other empty edge under the coil. Transfer the coil to the baking sheet and press lightly on it to make sure it doesn’t unroll during baking. Make the remaining coils the same way. Prick each with a toothpick here and there to stop the pastry from puffing.
5. Bake for 25 minutes, or until golden brown. Let cool on a wire rack. Serve at room temperature. These will keep in an airtight container for up to 1 week.