MAQRUD
TUNISIA
These luscious pastries come from Kairouan in Tunisia. They are usually shaped with a special stamp that both flattens the dough and etches a pattern on it. It is unlikely you will find this stamp outside of Kairouan, but don’t let this stop you from making the pastries as you don’t really need it. All you have to do once you have filled them is to simply flatten them with your fingers, then make a pattern by pressing the side of a box grater on the flattened dough. The pastries may not end up as perfectly shaped as those made with the special stamp, but the taste will be just as good. Maqrud are another Ramadan specialty, sold on the street throughout the medina during that month, and at specialized vendors the rest of the year.
MAKES ABOUT 24
FOR THE DOUGH
Pinch of saffron threads, crushed to a fine powder with a small mortar and pestle
1½ cups (225 g) fine semolina
⅛ teaspoon fine sea salt
¼ teaspoon baking soda
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
All-purpose flour, for rolling the dough
FOR THE HONEY SYRUP
Scant 1 cup (175 g) raw cane sugar
4 tablespoons (60 g) honey
FOR THE FILLING
¾ cup (120 g) pitted dates
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon
Grated zest of ½ orange
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
1. To make the dough: Steep the saffron in ½ cup (125 ml) warm water in a small bowl for 15 minutes.
2. Mix together the semolina, salt, and baking soda in a large bowl. Make a well in the center. Add the saffron water and olive oil to the well and gradually bring in the semolina until you have a rough dough.
3. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead until you have a smooth, malleable dough. Shape into a ball. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest on your kitchen counter for 15 minutes.
4. To make the honey syrup: Put the sugar, honey, and ¾ cup (180 ml) water in a saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Let boil for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool.
5. To make the filling: Put the dates in a food processor and pulse until coarsely chopped. Add the olive oil, cinnamon, and orange zest and process until you have a smooth paste.
6. Divide the filling into 6 equal portions. Shape each portion into a cylinder about ¾ inch (2 cm) thick and 2 inches (5 cm) long and set on a plate or baking sheet. Cover with plastic wrap.
7. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat (or use a nonstick sheet).
8. Divide the dough into 6 equal portions and shape into balls. Roll one ball of dough into an oval about 4 inches (10 cm) long, 2 inches (5 cm) wide, and ½ inch (1 cm) thick. Place a date cylinder along the length of the oval, centered over one half. Fold the other half to enclose the filling. Then, using a maqrud stamp, your fingers, or the fine-holed side of a box grater, flatten the filled dough to an even ½ inch (1 cm) thickness. With a knife, trim the edges, and cut the dough at an angle into diamonds with sides about 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. You should get 4 diamonds from each cylinder. Lay these on the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.
9. Place a fine-mesh wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet. Set the honey syrup near the stove. Pour 2 inches (5 cm) vegetable oil into a medium deep skillet and heat over medium heat until hot (if you drop a piece of bread in the oil, the oil should immediately bubble around it). Working in batches, drop in as many pastries as will comfortably fit in the pan. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, or until golden brown all over. Remove the pastries from the oil with a slotted spoon and immediately drop into the syrup. Turn a few times in the syrup to coat them well, then transfer to the wire rack to drain off the excess syrup. Let cool before transferring to a serving platter; or store in an airtight container to serve later. They will keep for a few days.