BARBARI
IRAN
Barbari is probably the most common bread in Iran. It is the bread that most people eat for breakfast and it can be baked in a tannur oven, although most barbari bakeries I have seen in Iran bake the bread on a very interesting rotating hot plate, which as it rotates moves the bread into the oven under the oven doors (set high enough so as not to scrape the loaves). The baker starts by shaping the loaves on a large table in front of the oven doors, making deep indentations in thin lines down the long barbari loaves. He then lifts and lays these on the rotating plate, which carries them into the oven, where they bake quickly, and then out again the other side of the doors, crisp and golden. In the morning barbari bread is served with eggs scrambled with tomatoes, feta cheese, and butter while at other meals it is served with a platter of herbs, cheese, and walnuts before the rest of the meal.
MAKES 2 MEDIUM LOAVES
3⅓ cups (400 g) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading and shaping
½ teaspoon instant (fast-acting) yeast
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
1. Mix the flour, yeast, and salt in a large bowl and make a well in the center. Gradually add 1 cup (250 ml) water, bringing in the flour as you go along. Knead until you have a rough dough.
2. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and knead for 3 minutes. Shape the dough into a ball, invert the bowl over it, and let rest for 15 minutes. Knead for 3 more minutes. Shape the dough into a ball and place in a lightly floured bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm, draft-free place for 1 hour, or until doubled in size.
3. Divide the dough in half and shape each half into a ball. Place on a lightly floured work surface. Cover with a damp kitchen towel and let rest for 20 minutes.
4. Flatten the dough into a long oval loaf about ½ inch (1 cm) thick and using the tips of your fingers, make deep indentations about ½ inch (1 cm) from the edge and the top down the long side and stop about the same distance from the bottom. Make a few more lines of deep indentations at equal intervals. Do the same to the other loaf, then gently pick up one end of one loaf with your fingers, while still holding on to the other end, and stretch the loaf to elongate the bread. Repeat at the other end, being mindful not to tear the dough.
5. Let rest while you preheat the oven to 475°F (250°C).
6. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, or until golden brown all over. The top should be darker than the bottom. Remove to a wire rack to cool. Serve at room temperature or reheat to serve hot.