L’HAM B’BOUDENJAL
MOROCCO
Eggplants are ubiquitous in Morocco but they are not indigenous, at least not until the Arabs brought them there in the eighth century, which is when they began to be incorporated into the cuisine. As for the Arabs, they were introduced to eggplants by the Persians who in turn found them in India. For this tagine, you can mash the eggplants into the sauce, in which case use large globe eggplants and chop them into chunks; or you can use Japanese eggplants and keep them whole—a prettier presentation. If you choose the latter, be careful when you stir them, and when you transfer them to a serving dish, so as not to mash them up.
SERVES 4
1 small leg of lamb on the bone (about 4½ pounds/2 kg)
1 medium onion (about 5 ounces/150 g), grated on the fine side of a grater
¼ bunch flat-leaf parsley (2 ounces/50 g), most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
¼ bunch cilantro (2 ounces/50 g), most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
5 tablespoons (75 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Good pinch of saffron threads
1 teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon finely ground black pepper
1 cinnamon stick
Sea salt
1 pound 5 ounces (600 g) small Japanese eggplants or 2 large globe eggplants
Moroccan Bread, for serving
1. Put the leg of lamb in a wide pot. Add the onion, herbs (reserving a little cilantro for garnish), oil, spices, and a little sea salt. Add 4 cups (1 liter) water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cover the pan. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 1 hour to 1 hour 30 minutes, or until the meat is completely done and the cooking broth has reduced to a thick sauce.
2. Meanwhile, peel the caps off the tops of the eggplants, keeping the stems on. Peel the eggplant in vertical stripes, leaving some of the skin on. If you are using globe eggplants, trim the top off, cut in half lengthwise, then quarter the halves lengthwise and slice crosswise into medium chunks. Sprinkle with salt and let sweat for 30 minutes before rinsing under cold water and patting dry.
3. When the meat is done, discard the cinnamon stick. Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Add the eggplants and cook for another 10 to 15 minutes, or until they are very soft.
4. Carefully remove the leg of lamb to a large serving platter, then gently remove the eggplants and arrange them around the meat. If the sauce is still too runny, boil it hard uncovered until reduced. Spoon the sauce all over and garnish with the reserved cilantro. Serve very hot with Moroccan bread.