TANGIA
MOROCCO
Tangia is a supremely simple dish in which you put meat and seasonings in a pot, without any liquid, to simmer on very low heat until done. It takes just a few minutes to prepare but the whole night to cook, at least the traditional way in the ashes of the hammam (communal baths). The dish is a specialty of Marrakesh, and it is named after the tall earthenware jar in which it is cooked. It is probably the only dish that is specifically cooked by men in Morocco. Tradition has it that men prepare their tangia at home on Thursday afternoon, then take it to their local hammam where the man in charge of the fire will bury the jars in the hot ashes until it is time to move them to the cooler ashes, where they will stay warm until the owners are ready to pick them up to take to their Friday picnic. I was given the recipe below by the late Boujemaa Mars, who was head chef at the Mamounia, one of Marrakesh’s fanciest hotels. Initially, I wondered if the meat would cook without any added water or broth, but lamb releases a fair amount of liquid during slow-cooking, and the end result is among the most succulent, flavorful stewed meats I have ever tasted. Don’t skip on adding the preserved lemon to the pot, even though the recipe asks for a small amount. Adding it makes all the difference to the flavor and if you cannot find it in the stores, it’s easy to make your own (see Note). Traditionally, the preserved lemons used in tangia are aged for at least 6 months in a cool, dark place.
SERVES 4
½ cup (125 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1 large clove garlic, peeled, finely chopped
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon finely ground white pepper
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
Good pinch of saffron threads
Sea salt
2 pounds 10 ounces (1.2 kg) lamb meat from the shanks or shoulder, trimmed of fat and cut into big chunks
¼ preserved lemon, preferably a well-aged one, rind only
Moroccan Bread, for serving
Put the oil, garlic, spices, and a little salt in a heavy pot. Mix well, then add the meat. Stir the meat with the seasoned oil, then add the preserved lemon rind. Cover and place over low heat. Simmer for 1 hour 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the meat is very tender and the sauce thickened. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. If the sauce is runny, increase the heat to high and boil for a few minutes until the excess liquid has evaporated. Serve very hot with good bread, preferably Moroccan bread.
NOTE: To make preserved lemons, quarter unwaxed lemons lengthwise without cutting all the way through, leaving them attached at one end. Spread 1 teaspoon sea salt inside each of 2 quarters for a total of 2 teaspoons per lemon. Pack the lemons tightly in a canning jar and seal tight. Let sit for at least 3 to 4 weeks.