GULAI KAMBING ACEH
INDONESIA
Ramadan is big all over the Islamic world, but in some countries like Oman people hardly venture out during fasting. As a result if you visit the country during that time, as I did, you will not get to see much life on the street, even in the markets. But in other countries like Indonesia, the atmosphere is very festive with markets full of food for those fasting and not wanting to cook for their buka puasa (iftar, or breaking the fast). And in restaurants, huge curries are put to simmer on charcoal fires in the afternoon so that they can be ready for when the fast is broken at sunset. This goat curry is a speciality of Aceh, a province at the northern end of Sumatra with the largest concentration of Muslims in Indonesia, where they live by Sharia law, a religious law derived from the religious precepts of the Qu’ran.
SERVES 4 TO 6
FOR THE SPICE PASTE
3 tablespoons unsweetened shredded coconut
2 tablespoons coriander seeds
2 teaspoons white peppercorns
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
1 tablespoon white poppy seeds (kas-kas)
½ nutmeg, grated
½ teaspoon ground cumin
2 inches (5 cm) fresh ginger
2 inches (5 cm) fresh turmeric
1¼ inches (3 cm) fresh galangal
4 small shallots (3 ounces/85 g total), peeled
2 cloves garlic, peeled but whole
1 fresh red chili, trimmed
4 candlenuts, macadamia nuts, or cashews
Sea salt
FOR THE MEAT
2¼ pounds (1 kg) goat meat, preferably on the bone, cut into medium chunks
Juice of 2 limes or 1 lemon
FOR THE CURRY
¼ cup (60 ml) vegetable oil
4 medium shallots (3½ ounces/100 g total), halved and cut into thin wedges
2 fresh curry leaves
3 tablespoons mild chili powder mixed with 1 tablespoon water
2-inch (5 cm) cinnamon stick
2 star anise
4 whole cloves
2 green cardamom pods, smashed
4 stalks lemongrass, white part only, smashed
2½ cups (600 ml) coconut cream
Sea salt
Boiled fragrant jasmine rice, for serving
1. To make the spice paste: Put the shredded coconut, coriander seeds, white peppercorns, fennel seeds, white poppy seeds, and nutmeg in a nonstick skillet and place over medium heat. Toast, stirring all the time, until fragrant. Add the ground cumin and stir for a few seconds. Transfer to a food processor. Wipe the pan clean and put the fresh ginger, turmeric, and galangal in it and toast until lightly golden. Add the galangal to the food processor, then peel the ginger and turmeric and add to the food processor. Add the shallots, garlic, chili, nuts, and salt to taste and process until you have a fine paste.
2. To marinate the meat: Put the goat meat in a bowl and add the lime or lemon juice. Mix well, then rub the spice paste into the meat. Let marinate for at least 2 hours, or preferably overnight in the refrigerator.
3. To make the curry: Heat the vegetable oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly golden, about 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the curry leaves and chili paste. Add the marinated goat, cinnamon, star anise, cloves, cardamom, and lemongrass and cook, stirring regularly, until the goat is lightly browned. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook for a few minutes, or until the meat browns a little more. Add the coconut cream and salt to taste and mix well. Reduce the heat to low and let simmer 45 minutes, stirring regularly to make sure the sauce is not sticking, or until the sauce is thick and some of the oil has risen to the surface. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve hot with rice.
