CHICKEN KARAHI
PAKISTAN
When I was in Lahore for the Lahore Literary Festival, I was invited to stay with Razi Ahmed, the founder of the festival, and his family; and every morning I would meet his mother in the kitchen for a desi breakfast and a chat that often revolved around desi food, which I adored, not to mention that I also loved being with the Ahmed family, whose hospitality and generosity reminded me so much of both my countries, Lebanon and Syria. I also remember my first home-cooked lunch, at Nuscie Jamil’s beautiful home. Nuscie, who is also very involved with the festival, became a firm friend, and even though this recipe is not hers, I am pretty sure she served a similar curry at that lunch. It is simple to make and I love the concept of cooking the sauce before adding the chicken, which ensures a beautiful consistency not to mention an intense, irresistible flavor.
SERVES 4
¼ cup (60 ml) vegetable oil, plus more if needed
3 medium onions (1 pound/450 g total), finely chopped
2 medium tomatoes (7 ounces/200 g total), processed with a little water to a smooth puree
1-inch (2.5 cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced to a fine paste
2 cloves garlic, minced to a fine paste
1 teaspoon Kashmiri chili powder
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1½ teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon curry powder
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
Sea salt
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 whole chicken (3 pounds 5 ounces/1.5 kg), skinned and jointed into 8 pieces
¼ bunch cilantro (2 ounces/50 g), most of the bottom stems discarded, coarsely chopped
½ teaspoon Garam Masala 1
Cooked basmati rice or Naan, for serving
1. Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat until hot. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown.
2. Add half the pureed tomatoes and mix well. When the tomatoes start bubbling, add the ginger, garlic, the chili powder, coriander, cumin, curry powder, turmeric, and salt to taste and mix well. Cook, stirring regularly, until fragrant.
3. Add the remaining pureed tomatoes and mix well, then stir in the tomato paste. If you find that the sauce is sticking at this stage, add 1 tablespoon more vegetable oil. Stir until the oil rises. Use a hand blender to process the sauce into a puree. (Or transfer to a food processor to puree, then return to the pot.)
4. Add the chicken pieces to the pot and cook until the meat is no longer pink. Add ¼ cup (60 ml) water and continue to cook until the water has evaporated and the sauce or masala is thick again with some of the oil rising to the surface. Then add 1 cup (250 ml) water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pan, and let simmer for 30 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through and the sauce is concentrated; check on the chicken halfway through to make sure the sauce is not drying out.
5. Uncover and stir. Add the cilantro and garam masala and let simmer, covered, for a few more minutes. Serve immediately with rice or bread.