Plan Your Trip
Cruising in Alaska
With a tightly packed jumble of islands, and landscape-molding glaciers sliding down mountainsides to kiss the ocean, Alaska’s waterways hold an obvious allure. Add in the fact that many of Alaska’s ports and cities aren’t accessible by road, and you’ve got another reason to eschew terra firma and take to the high seas.
Popular Ports of Call
Ketchikan
Second only to Juneau in tourist numbers, Alaska’s so-called’ ‘First City’ offloads around one million passengers from over 500 ships in a five-month season. Ashore they walk the rough-and-ready Creek St, check out the serene Totem Heritage Center, or hit the dockside tourist center to organize flightseeing and boat trips.
Juneau
The state capital is also its cruise capital, with up to seven large ships docking daily in peak season. The attractions are manifold: massive green walls of mountains, a quaint city center and a hulking glacier just out of town.
Skagway
Experience gold-rush history – or at least reenactments – in this Southeast Alaskan town, but bear in mind that tiny Skagway can feel overrun with three or four cruise liners per day in summer.
Seward
The main terminus for land-based ‘cruisetours.’ Take a day trip to Kenai Fjords National Park or head up the railway to Denali from this cozy fishing village.
Why Cruise?
Alaskan cruises allow people who might not otherwise have the opportunity (or inclination) to glimpse into a vast natural wilderness once only accessible to hard-nosed adventurers and explorers with piles of money and equipment. On top of this, it enables ordinary people to do it with a high degree of comfort and convenience. Trips that once took intrepid explorers and 19th-century gold-rush pioneers months, if not years, can now be shoehorned into a manageable two- to three-week itinerary taking in hundreds of miles of coastline.
On standard cruises, you’ll disembark at a port most days for anywhere from four to eight hours, where you can bop around town, take in a hike or an excursion, or even a longer trip inland to places such as Denali National Park, Talkeetna or Eagle. You can also sit on deck and spot bald eagles hunting, humpback whales breaching and glaciers calving: not a bad sightseeing experience. On the smaller cruise lines, there will be more wildlife excursions and more stops.
Cruises aren’t for everyone. If you hate all-inclusive resorts, rigidly organized tours or other carefully manufactured forms of travel, this type of vacation is probably not for you.
There is an alternative. Backpackers, independent travelers and spendthrifts on shoestring budgets can hop on the Alaska Marine Highway ferry, which plies an almost-identical route up the Inside Passage. On board, you’ll see the same sights as most cruisers, but you won’t get a casino, heated pool, hot tub, all-you-can-eat buffet and you won’t have to wear a name-badge.
PORTS LESS VISITED
Petersburg Few large ships can navigate the Wrangell Narrows, and fewer still can dock in Petersburg’s shallow harbor, meaning this wonderful Norwegian-flavored town only welcomes about two small ships a week in season.
Wrangell Rough-and-ready Wrangell is the antithesis of a cruise port. Good job too as it only gets about one cruise ship docking a week – and a small one at that.
Nome Although it’s now included on the pioneering Northwest Passage cruises, this erstwhile gold-rush outpost still only gets a half-dozen cruise ships stopping in any given year.
Dutch Harbor The treeless outpost of the Aleutian Islands, with its Russian church and half-forgotten WWII history, gets a dozen small cruises ships stopping a year, plus twice-a-month visits from the MV Tustumena ferry.
Yakutat This tiny fishing town in the Gulf of Alaska gets just one cruise-boat call a year, the equally tiny Silver Discoverer, which briefly disgorges its 120 passengers.
When to Go
Cruises run from the beginning of May to late September. You will have the best weather in July and August, but for a bit less traffic and cheaper tickets consider taking a cruise in the shoulder seasons of early May and late September.
It’s always colder than you expect. While you may get a few shorts-worthy days, it’s worthwhile bringing several warm sweaters, a wool cap and a good waterproof jacket.
Picking Your Ship
Cruises in Alaska aren’t just the preserve of retirees playing bingo on crowded sundecks. Sure, you can meet Mickey Mouse on a Disney cruise or stroll the deck with 3000 others on the Emerald Princess, but, for every aquatic skyscraper there’s a smaller, cozier option. Some of the state’s best and most adventurous cruises take place on boats carrying barely a dozen passengers that sail between little-visited ports, stopping off in wilderness areas in between.
Cruise Ships
Some of the world’s largest cruise-line companies ply the waters of Alaska, including Princess, Norwegian and Holland America. Most of the bigger ships are pretty luxurious. However, these so-called resorts on the sea do have limitations. You won’t be able to stop at as many places as you can on a smaller ship, and you’ll be sharing your Alaska wilderness experience with up to 3000 other vacationers.
Most large cruises stop only in the major ports of call, and generally start from Vancouver or Seattle. Excursions range from heli-seeing trips and zipline tours to guided hikes, kayaks and day trips to inland attractions such as Denali National Park. Costs for Alaskan cruises average around $120 a night (per person), but that does not include your flight to the port of embarkation. You can save good money (sometimes as much as 50%) by hopping on a ‘repositioning’ cruise, which takes the boat back to its home port.
Check the small print about what’s included in the price before you commit. Unless you’re on a luxury cruise, you’ll likely be paying extra for alcoholic beverages, shore excursions and tips. Then there’s the spa, casino, gift shop and so on.
Here’s how the big cruise companies break down:
Carnival (
%800-764-7419; www.carnival.com) Young people rule on these ships that aren’t known for their environmental stewardship. The bonus: they’re one of the cheapest options.
Celebrity (%877-202-4345; www.celebritycruises.com; 
c) Family-friendly and laid-back cruises on large 2000-plus-passenger ships.
Disney (%800-951-3532; www.disneycruise.disney.go.com; c) Plenty of family fun and activities on a ship with good environmental credentials. Slightly pricier than other big-name favorites.
Holland America (%877-932-4259; www.hollandamerica.com) One of the world’s largest cruise companies and considered a classy option. It runs seven ships carrying 1500 to 2000 passengers in Alaska and owns the local Westmark Hotel chain.
Norwegian (%866-234-7350; www.ncl.com) Many modern details make this a top pick for young couples.
Princess (%800-774-6237; www.princess.com) The largest ship visiting Alaska is the 3082-capacity Emerald Princess, one of seven used by the company in the region. It also owns five plush hotels.
Regent Seven Seas Cruises (%844-437-4368; www.rssc.com) Lauded as one of the most luxurious lines. Its two Alaska ships are smaller than average, carrying between 500 and 700 passengers.
Royal Caribbean (%866-562-7625; www.royalcaribbean.com) Despite the name, it offers voyages to Alaska each summer on the ship Radiance of the Seas.
SUSTAINABLE CRUISING
While all travel causes certain environmental and cultural impacts, by their very size, cruise ships leave a heavy wake.
The Impact
Pollution A large cruise liner like the Queen Mary emits 1lb (0.45kg) of carbon dioxide per mile, while a long-haul flight releases about 0.6lb (0.27kg). In Alaska, an 11-day cruise from Seattle to Juneau on a small boat with around 100 guests will burn about 71 gallons of fuel per passenger, releasing some 0.77 tons of carbon into the air per passenger. The flight from Seattle to Juneau releases 0.17 tons of carbon per passenger. Cruise ships also release around 17% of total worldwide nitrogen-oxide emissions, and create around 50 tons of garbage on a one-week voyage. In 2013, the US Environmental Protection Agency estimated that cruise ships produce about 1 billion gallons of sewage a year.
Cultural impact While cruise lines generate much-needed money and jobs for their ports of call, thousands of people arriving at once can change the character of a town in a second. Big cruise ports such as Juneau and Ketchikan see six or seven cruise ships a day – that’s around 15,000 people, or close to one million visitors in a five-month season. And with such short stays, there is little of that cultural interchange that makes travel an enriching endeavor for both tourist and ‘townie.’
What You Can Do
The cruise industry notes it complies with international regulations, and adapts to stricter laws in places such as Alaska and the US west coast. As consumer pressure grows, more and more ships are being equipped with new wastewater treatment facilities, LED lighting and solar panels. In several Alaska ports (as well as San Francisco, Vancouver and Seattle) ‘cold-ironing’ allows ships to plug into local power supplies and avoid leaving the engine running while in port. Knowing that customers care about these things has an effect on cruise-ship operations. There are also organizations that review the environmental records of cruise lines and ships. These include the following:
Friends of the Earth (www.foe.org/cruisereportcard) Gives out grades for environmental impact.
US Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (www.cdc.gov) Follow the travel links to the well-regarded sanitation ratings for ships calling into US ports.
World Travel Awards (www.worldtravelawards.com) Annual awards for the ‘World’s Leading Green Cruise Line.’
Small Ships
Just 3% of Alaska cruisers take a small-ship voyage. While you’ll have tighter quarters, bumpier seas and fewer entertainment options than on the big boys, these vessels offer better chances of seeing wildlife. There will also be more land and kayak excursions, onboard naturalists (most of the time), good food, a more casual atmosphere (you can leave that blue sports coat at the office where it belongs) and a more intimate portrait of Alaska.
These boats sleep anywhere from 12 to 100 and are more likely to depart from within Alaska. While this is probably your best bet if you are looking to match comfort with quality and authentic experience, it does come with a steeper price tag: anywhere from $400 to $1200 a night.
Each small cruise ship is different. Here’s a breakdown of some of our favorites:
Adventure Life Voyages (%800-344-6118; www.adventure-life.com; per person 9-day cruise $3555-4965) Specializes in top-end trips up the Inside Passage. Carries 42 to 74 passengers, with some unique activities including snorkeling and paddleboarding.
AdventureSmith Explorations (%877-620-2875; www.adventuresmithexplorations.com; per person $1595-10,900) This company offsets its carbon emissions and focuses on learning and adventure cruises in Southeast Alaska aboard its fleet of small boats (accommodating from 40 to 50 people). The boats have kayaks and small skiffs for numerous excursions that include everything from kayaking in Glacier Bay National Park to wildlife-watching near Tracy Arm, the ABC Islands, Icy Straight, Misty Fiords and Frederick Sound. Most trips depart from Juneau.
Discovery Voyages (%800-324-7602; www.discoveryvoyages.com; per person $2500-7150) Small 12-berth yacht that specializes in wildlife and photography tours of Prince William Sound – including stops in quiet ports like Cordova – an area few cruise ships visit. The yacht’s small size enables it to negotiate narrow fjords and land in wilderness areas for hiking and kayaking. It has a good environmental record.
Lindblad National Geographic Expeditions (%800-397-3348; www.expeditions.com; per person from $8990) Backed by National Geographic, Lindblad offers kayaking, wilderness walks, onboard naturalists and Zodiac excursions during eight-day cruises in the Southeast. Many trips include the airfare from Seattle and take visitors from Juneau through the Inside Passage. Plus you get the unique opportunity of pretending to be a National Geographic explorer for the week.
Un-Cruise Adventures (%888-862-8881; www.un-cruise.com; per person $2995-8095) Offers themed seven- to 21-day cruises, carrying 22 to 86 passengers, that focus on whale-watching, Glacier Bay, wildlife-watching or adventure travel. The small boats (the company calls them yachts) have modern, elegant staterooms, and a naturalist is on board to teach you the ways of the Alaska wilderness. Most trips depart from Juneau, but one leaves from Seattle.
ALASKA MARINE HIGHWAY: THE INDEPENDENT TRAVELER’S CRUISE
Alaska’s extensive ferry system has many potential descriptions: ‘long-distance water bus,’ ‘poor-person’s cruise liner,’ and ‘the world’s most spectacular public-transportation network’ among them. Taking passengers up the Inside Passage from Bellingham, WA, in the lower 48 to Ketchikan and beyond, the unsophisticated but comfortable ferries never stray far from land, meaning you are treated to a real life National Geographic documentary of tumbling glaciers, weeping waterfalls, misty rainforests and crenelated mountains, not to mention the possibility of sighting whales, bald eagles, sea lions and, if you’re very lucky, bears.
Alaska Marine Highway (AMHS; %800-642-0066; www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs) runs ferries equipped with observation decks, food services, lounges and solariums with deck chairs. You can rent a stateroom for overnight trips – these aren’t as ‘stately’ as they may sound, and are downright spartan compared with what you’ll get on a cruise liner – but many travelers head straight for the solarium and unroll their sleeping bags on deck chairs, camping out in the covered, open-air rear deck.
The ferries have cafeterias or snack bars and a few have sit-down restaurants, but budget travelers can save money by bringing their own food (and spirits) and preparing it on board the ship. There are microwaves on every ship. Most ships have onboard naturalists who give a running commentary on the trip. Bring your headphones, warm clothes, some extra snacks and a good book.
Ferry schedules change almost annually, but the routes stretch from Bellingham, WA, to the Aleutian Chain, with possible stops including Prince Rupert, BC, Ketchikan, Wrangell, Petersburg, Sitka, Juneau, Haines and Skagway. From Haines you can drive north and within a couple of hours pick up the Alcan (Alaska-Canada) Hwy. A trip from Bellingham to Juneau takes 2½ to four days, depending on the route.
Nine ships ply the waters of Southeast Alaska and twice a month the MV Kennicott makes a special run from Southeast Alaska across the Gulf of Alaska to Whittier. This links the Southeast routes of the Alaska Marine Highway ferries to the Southcentral portion that includes such ports as Homer, Kodiak, Valdez and Cordova.
Along with the Southeast, the Alaska Marine Highway services Southcentral and Southwest Alaska, with 35 ports in the system. There are ferries nearly daily at the main towns in the Southeast, while routes in Prince William Sound and the Aleutians have limited frequency. Twice a month from May through to September the MV Tustumena makes a special run along the Alaska Peninsula, starting in Homer and terminating in Dutch Harbor on the Aleutian Islands.
If the Alaska Marine Highway ferries are full in Bellingham, head to Port Hardy at the north end of Vancouver Island, where BC Ferries (%888-223-3779; www.bcferries.com) leave for Prince Rupert, BC. From this Canadian city you can transfer to the Alaska Marine Highway and continue to Southeast Alaska on ferries not as heavily in demand as those in Bellingham.
Picking Your Route
Inside Passage
This is the classic route, sailing from Seattle or Vancouver. The ‘Great Land’ coastal views don’t start until Prince Rupert Island. Most trips stop in Ketchikan – with about as many bars as people and some fine totem poles – then continue to Juneau, home to a great glacier and heli-seeing tours; Skagway, a gold-rush port with good hiking close to town; and the granddaddy attraction of Alaska cruises, Glacier Bay, where you’ll see 11 tidewater glaciers spilling their icy wares into the sea. The pros: this is classic Alaska and the coast is rarely (if ever) out of sight. The cons: busy ports and ships following a more well-trammeled path sometimes kill the wilderness feel.
Gulf of Alaska
This trip includes the Inside Passage but then continues to the Gulf of Alaska, with stops in Seward, the Hubbard Glacier and Whittier in Prince William Sound. While you get a broader picture of coastal Alaska on this one-way cruise and reap the benefit of pulling into some quieter ports, it also comes at a price, as you’ll generally need to arrange flights from separate start and end points.
Bering Sea & Northwest Passage
These trips are more expensive and generally focus on natural and cultural history. People that enjoy learning on their vacations will like this trip, with stops in the Pribilof Islands, Nome and, on the really expensive cruises, King Island.
Since the mid-2010s some ships have started to ply the Northwest Passage (now partly ice-free in August and early September), sailing all the way to Greenland or, in some cases, New York. In 2016 the first luxury cruise liner, the Crystal Serenity, began offering a 32-day Anchorage–New York cruise with stops in Kodiak, Dutch Harbor and Nome en route. Prices start at $22,000. European cruise companies such as Ponant and Hapag-Lloyd send smaller boats on Northwest Passage tours, stopping in Nome and Utqiaġvik (Barrow).
‘Cruisetours’
These trips give you the chance to get off the boat for about half of your journey. Most begin with the Inside Passage cruise, then head out on a tour bus or (even better) the Alaska Railroad, with stops in Talkeetna, Denali National Park, Fairbanks, Eagle or the Copper River. Big cruise companies such as Princess and Holland America have all-inclusive hotels in these destinations (basically cruise ships without the rocking).