SOUPS

comfort food in a bowl.

ASPARAGUS & TARRAGON SOUP

with goat’s cheese toasts.

On my blog, under the ‘favourite articles’ section, I link to a tale all about tarragon, written, as eloquently as ever, by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, the great British food writer and cook. In his introduction, he says ‘this week, I hope to beguile you with something altogether more refined: tarragon, that elegant, pungent herb associated so firmly, so saucily, with classic French cuisine.’ He goes on to regale us with a whole slew of interesting facts and anecdotes about this bold little herb. Including that once upon a time it used to be called Dragon’s Wart, and that one of Henry VIII’s main reasons for divorcing Catherine of Aragon was for her heavy-handed use of tarragon. Which does, finally, bring me to my point: that just the littlest teaspoon of tarragon here takes this simple summery asparagus soup to lofty heights, and I love it.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

Goat’s cheese toasts

WHAT TO DO

  1. Heat the olive oil and butter in a large heavy-based pot over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the onion, tarragon and asparagus and cook for 2–3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another minute.
  2. Pour in the stock and add the salt and pepper; simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
  3. Meanwhile, preheat the oven’s grill. Brush the ciabatta slices on one side with a little olive oil. Toast under the grill until golden, then remove and spread the goat’s cheese over each slice. Sprinkle with black pepper.
  4. Once the soup has cooled, add the lemon juice and blend using a stick blender or in a food processor. Check for seasoning before serving with the goat’s cheese toasts on the side.

SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes | COOKING TIME 20 minutes

NOTE: This soup freezes well for up to 2 months.

THAI CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP.

There is a plethora of quick and easy Thai chicken noodle soup recipes out there and I fully believe that everyone should have one in their arsenal. This is my version, delivering as much bang for your buck, prettiness and punch as it can muster.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

  • 11⁄2 tsp olive oil
  • 1 heaped Tbsp Thai green or red curry paste (add more or less according to your taste)
  • 1 red chilli, deseeded and chopped (optional)
  • 1 tsp grated fresh ginger
  • 1 clove garlic, chopped
  • 1.5 litres good-quality chicken or vegetable stock OR use 1 litre stock and 1 × 400 ml can coconut milk
  • 300 g chicken fillet or breast, cut into strips
  • 100 g mixed mushrooms, sliced
  • 100 g egg noodles
  • 1⁄2 red pepper, deseeded and roughly chopped
  • 100 g sugar snap peas, halved lengthways
  • 1 tsp sugar
  • 1 Tbsp fish sauce
  • juice of 1 lime
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • handful fresh coriander, chopped

WHAT TO DO

  1. Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat and fry the curry paste for 2 minutes until fragrant. Add the chilli (if using) and ginger, and fry for another minute. Add the garlic, fry for another minute, then pour in the stock and bring to the boil.
  2. Turn down the heat to medium, add the chicken strips and poach for 6–8 minutes until cooked through.
  3. Add the remaining ingredients up to and including the fish sauce and cook for a further 2 minutes.
  4. Remove the pot from the heat, stir in the lime juice, season to taste and serve immediately in warmed bowls, garnished with a sprinkling of coriander.

SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes | COOKING TIME 15–20 minutes

ROASTED TOMATO & THYME SOUP

with gruyère soldiers.

When a meal is as exquisite in its simplicity as this, I see no need for convoluted introductions, other than that Gruyère is Rob’s all-time favourite cheese and I get brownie points whenever it joins us at the table. Other than that, this is roast tomato soup at its proudest, and I wish you bon appétit.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

  • 1 kg mixed tomatoes, roughly chopped (I use a mix of regular salad tomatoes and Rosa tomatoes)
  • 3–4 sprigs fresh thyme, or 1 level tsp dried
  • 1 red pepper, deseeded and roughly chopped (optional)
  • 6–8 cloves garlic, peeled
  • 2 Tbsp olive oil
  • 1 tsp sugar
  • generous pinch each of salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 cups stock (I like to use lamb)
  • 1⁄2 tsp dried chilli flakes

Gruyère soldiers

  • 1 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley
  • 1 clove garlic, mashed
  • 1 Tbsp olive oil
  • 1 Tbsp butter
  • 1⁄4 cup grated Gruyère cheese (or any hard cheese)
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 4 slices sourdough bread

WHAT TO DO

  1. Preheat the oven to 180 °C.
  2. Place the tomatoes, thyme, red pepper and garlic cloves in a wide, shallow ovenproof dish or on a baking tray. Drizzle over the olive oil and sprinkle over the sugar, salt and pepper. Bake for about 45 minutes until the tomatoes are roasted and starting to caramelise.
  3. Remove the dish from the oven and set aside to cool to room temperature.
  4. Preheat the oven’s grill for the Gruyère soldiers. Mix the parsley, garlic, olive oil, butter and cheese into a loose paste. Season with a generous pinch each of salt and pepper, and spread onto both sides of the sourdough slices. Slice the bread into fingers and place on a lightly greased baking tray. Grill for 3–4 minutes until golden, turning halfway.
  5. Getting back to the cooled tomato mixture, remove the thyme stalks if you used fresh thyme and then spoon the mixture into a blender. Blend to the desired consistency. Transfer to a large pot and bring to the boil on the stovetop. Add the stock and chilli flakes and gently simmer for 2–3 minutes. Remove from the heat and serve immediately with the Gruyère soldiers on the side.

SERVES 4–6 | PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes | COOKING TIME 1 effortless hour

NOTE: This soup freezes well for up to 2 months.

BUTTERNUT & APPLE SOUP

with bacon croutons.

Apparently, even after all this time, butternut soup recipes are still one of the most searched recipes on foodie websites. Really? Still? Well, I happen to think that butternut soup is one of those where the old adage ‘keep it simple, stupid’ is wonderfully appropriate. This version can be whipped up in a jiffy, and has the added sweetness and lightness of apples to lift it. And the bacon croutons? Heroic.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

  • 1 Tbsp butter
  • 1 medium red onion, roughly chopped
  • 2 apples, peeled, cored and roughly chopped
  • 1⁄2 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 1⁄2 tsp ground nutmeg
  • 800 g butternut, peeled and cubed
  • 21⁄2 cups chicken stock
  • 1 Tbsp olive oil
  • 3–4 rashers bacon, roughly chopped
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • fresh crusty bread, for serving

WHAT TO DO

  1. Heat the butter in a large pot over medium-high heat. As it starts to bubble, add the onion and apples, turn down the heat to medium and gently cook for 3–5 minutes.
  2. Add the cinnamon and nutmeg, fry for a further minute or so, and then add the butternut and chicken stock. Bring to the boil, then turn down the heat and simmer for 30 minutes until the butternut is cooked through.
  3. While the soup is cooking, heat the olive oil in a frying pan until very hot. Fry the bacon bits until crispy, then remove from the pan and drain on paper towel.
  4. Purée the soup (I use a stick blender), and season to taste.
  5. Scatter the crispy bacon over the soup before serving in warmed bowls with fresh crusty bread on the side.

SERVES 3–4 | PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes | COOKING TIME 35–40 minutes (mostly unattended)

NOTE: This soup freezes well for up to 2 months.

CAULIFLOWER, SAGE & BACON SOUP

with stilton toasts.

I love this soup. It’s inexpensive, uncomplicated, unfussy and unapologetically delicious. The creamy nuttiness of the cauliflower combines beautifully with the woodiness of the sage and the deliciousness of the bacon.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

  • 1 Tbsp olive oil
  • 250 g leeks, roughly chopped
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 250 g bacon, diced
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1 tsp dried sage
  • 500 g cauliflower, roughly chopped
  • 3 cups chicken or vegetable stock
  • 1 cup milk
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper

Stilton toasts

  • 1⁄4 cup crumbled Stilton cheese (or any soft cheese, such as Camembert)
  • 4 slices ciabatta
  • freshly ground black pepper

WHAT TO DO

  1. Heat the olive oil in a large pot and cook the leeks, onion and 150 g of the bacon for 3–4 minutes until the onions are translucent. Add the garlic and sage and cook for a further minute.
  2. Add the cauliflower, 2 cups stock and the milk, season well with salt and pepper, and bring to a gentle simmer for 15 minutes or until the cauliflower is cooked through. Remove from the heat, allow to cool slightly and then blend to the desired consistency.
  3. Preheat the oven’s grill for the Stilton toasts. Spread the cheese over the ciabatta slices, add a sprinkling of black pepper and place on a lightly greased baking tray. Grill for 3–4 minutes or until the cheese is light golden and bubbling.
  4. Fry the remaining bacon in a small frying pan until crispy and set aside.
  5. Reheat the blended soup just before serving, adding the remaining stock as you do. Dish the soup into bowls and garnish with the fried bacon. Serve immediately with the Stilton toasts.

SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes | COOKING TIME 20 minutes

NOTE: This soup freezes well for up to 2 months.

SPICY BUTTERNUT & CHICKPEA SOUP

with coconut cream.

This soup is gorgeously creamy, swimming in the silkiness of coconut cream. It’s also packed full of Indian spices, yet light and merry with the vibrant brightness of the baby spinach leaves. Come to think of it, it’s almost a stew of sorts, rather than a soup. To add another dimension, buy a precooked chicken and shred in some of the meat just before serving.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

  • 800 g butternut, peeled and cubed
  • 1–2 Tbsp olive oil
  • 1 red onion, roughly chopped
  • 1 clove garlic, roughly chopped
  • 1 tsp grated fresh ginger
  • 1 tsp dried chilli flakes
  • 1 tsp curry powder
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • 1 tsp dried coriander
  • 1 × 410 g can chopped tomatoes
  • 2 tsp sugar
  • 2 cups chicken stock
  • 1 × 400 g can chickpeas in water, drained
  • 200 ml coconut cream
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 handfuls fresh baby spinach leaves
  • fresh pita breads, for serving

WHAT TO DO

  1. Microwave the butternut cubes in an ovenproof dish for 5 minutes on high. Alternatively, boil in a saucepan of salted water until cooked through but still firm.
  2. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. When hot, add the onion, turn down to medium heat and simmer for about 3 minutes. Add the garlic, ginger and all the spices and cook for a further 2–3 minutes.
  3. Stir in the chopped tomatoes and sugar. Simmer for 3 minutes and then add the cooked butternut, stock and chickpeas. Bring to the boil, and then turn down the heat and simmer for a further 15 minutes.
  4. Stir through the coconut cream and season to taste. Add the spinach leaves just before serving in warmed bowls with fresh pita breads on the side.

SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes | COOKING TIME 25–30 minutes

ROASTED FENNEL & LEEK SOUP.

This is a hearty, happy-making soup. I am mildly obsessed with aniseedy fennel, and slow roasted it delivers the most wonderful caramelised flavours. To really put a halo on this, I’d suggest sprinkling crispy bacon bits or Gorgonzola over just before serving, or (dare I say it?) both.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

  • 500 g fennel, roughly chopped (discard the stalks)
  • 250 g leeks, trimmed and roughly chopped
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1–2 Tbsp olive oil
  • 3⁄4 tsp ground aniseed
  • generous pinch each of salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 21⁄2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

WHAT TO DO

  1. Preheat the oven to 180 °C.
  2. Toss all the ingredients, holding back 1 cup of stock, in an ovenproof dish and roast for about 50 minutes or until cooked through and light golden.
  3. Remove from the oven, allow to cool and then tip the ingredients into a blender or food processor. Blend with the remaining cup of stock and check for seasoning. Reheat in a pot on the stove just before serving.

SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes | COOKING TIME 50 minutes (unattended)

NOTE: This soup freezes well for up to 2 months.

gem squash,

LEEK & BARLEY SOUP.

In the spirit of meat-free Mondays (read more on my blog) and the no-mess, no-fuss food that I firmly believe should always be served on the first day of the week, I give you a new twist on an old favourite. I’ve been making gem squash and leek soup for years, a recipe from Mum when I was at university, and only the other day did I add barley for the first time. And while this all sounds rather elementary I’m sure, somehow it adds just a little special something and leaves you with a simple soup that is both honest and charming.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

  • 4 gem squash, halved
  • 1 Tbsp butter
  • 1 Tbsp olive oil
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 1 clove garlic, chopped
  • about 250 g leeks, trimmed and roughly chopped
  • 1 litre chicken or vegetable stock
  • 1⁄3 cup pearled barley, rinsed briefly under running water
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • handful fresh parsley, roughly chopped

WHAT TO DO

  1. Fill a large saucepan with hot water, bring to the boil and add the gem squash halves. Leave to gently simmer for about 15 minutes.
  2. Meanwhile, heat the butter and olive oil in a large heavy-based pot and brown the onion for 2–3 minutes. Add the garlic and leeks, and fry for a further 3 minutes.
  3. Add the stock and barley, and season with salt and pepper. Give it a good stir and leave to simmer.
  4. Drain the gem squash, deseed and then scoop out the pulp with a spoon. Add it to the soup and cook for a further 5 minutes. Stir well and check that the barley is cooked (it should be al dente or just past that). Serve in bowls, garnished with fresh parsley.

SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes | COOKING TIME 20 minutes | ROB’S RATING 8/10

NOTES: You can blend the soup so that it’s smoother, and serve with a dollop of crème fraîche or natural yoghurt. This soup freezes well for up to 2 months.