SLOW
food for taking it easy.
indian-style coconut
SEAFOOD CURRY.
While the fish rotis on page 108 are packed full of spice and convenience, perfect for a speedy week-night supper, this is a slightly more complex curry, with additional layers of flavour. For this reason, it’s maybe more suited to weekend eating, when you have time to foot tap (preferably with a glass of wine to hand) and friends with whom to indulge in happy chit-chat while it bubbles away. Whatever the weather, rhyme or reason, you won’t be disappointed with the results. Serve with basmati rice.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- 1–2 Tbsp olive oil
- 1 medium onion, chopped
- 1 tsp ground cumin
- 1 tsp dried coriander
- 1 tsp dried chilli flakes
- 1–2 tsp medium-strength curry powder
- 1⁄2 stick cinnamon
- 2 cloves garlic, chopped
- 1 thumb-sized piece fresh ginger, peeled and roughly grated
- 1 × 410 g can chopped peeled tomatoes
- 1 cup cubed butternut
- 1 × 400 ml can coconut milk
- 2 tsp sugar, or to taste
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 4 × 125 g hake fillets, roughly chopped
- 750 g mussels, well rinsed, discard any that aren’t closed tightly
- 2 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley
- 2 Tbsp chopped fresh coriander
WHAT TO DO
- Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion, stir for about 2 minutes and then add the spices, garlic and ginger.
- Stir for a further minute and then add the tomatoes. Reduce the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes, stirring often.
- Meanwhile, cook the butternut in the microwave on high for about 6 minutes until soft. Alternatively, cook in a saucepan of salted boiling water.
- Add the coconut milk and sugar to the tomato mixture, season to taste and then add the hake pieces, mussels and cooked butternut. Put on the lid and simmer for 5 minutes.
- Check the seasoning before serving over basmati rice, garnished with the fresh parsley and coriander.
SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes | COOKING TIME 25–30 minutes
NOTE: Frozen mussels will work fine – just rinse them under lukewarm water to defrost before cooking.
SLOW-COOKED CHICKEN & CHORIZO CASSOULET
with thyme & Gruyère dumplings.
Chorizo time again. I can’t seem to beat the habit. However, I am going to take a positive stance on this, as I try not to be in the habit of eating underwhelming food either. And if you’re wondering, cassoulet is just the French word for casserole. I like to think of this one-pot wonder as a kind of slow-cooked miracle. You have the spicy robustness of the chorizo, the silkiness of the slow-cooked onions and then the good old dependable chicken sausages. Perfect happy-making weekend food (that I unashamedly cook again and again).
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- 10–12 chicken sausages
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 3–4 sprigs fresh thyme or 1⁄2 tsp dried
- 1 Tbsp olive oil
- 1 Tbsp butter
- 3 medium red onions, cut into sixths
- 2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
- 1 fresh chilli, deseeded and chopped or
- 1 tsp dried chilli flakes
- 1 × 225 g (or thereabouts) chorizo, sliced
- 1 × 400 g cannellini beans, drained
- 300 ml cider
- 2 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley
Thyme & Gruyère dumplings
- 100 g self-raising flour (about 2⁄3 cup)
- 50 g soft butter
- 1⁄2 cup grated Gruyère (or Parmesan or Cheddar)
- 2–3 Tbsp natural yoghurt
- 1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
- generous pinch of salt and freshly
- ground black pepper
WHAT TO DO
- Preheat the oven to 180 °C. Season the chicken sausages with salt, pepper and the thyme. Heat an ovenproof pot on the stove and add the olive oil and butter. When the butter starts to foam, brown the chicken sausages for about 2 minutes on each side. Remove and set aside.
- Add the onions to the pot and fry for about 3 minutes, stirring often. Add the garlic and chilli and fry for a further 2 minutes. Then add the chorizo and fry for 3–5 minutes.
- Remove the pot from the stove, add the chicken sausages back in on top of the onions and chorizo, pour in the cannellini beans and cider, put on the lid and place in the oven for 40 minutes.
- Meanwhile, make the dumplings. Mix the flour and butter in a mixer or food processor until the texture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the remaining ingredients and knead into a soft dough. If the dough is too wet, add in a little more flour – it should not stick to your hands excessively. Break off bits of dough and roll into palm-sized balls.
- After 40 minutes, remove the casserole from the oven and gently place the dumplings on top of the chicken mixture. Return the pot to the oven uncovered and bake for 6–10 minutes until the dumplings are puffy and golden. Sprinkle over the fresh parsley and serve on warmed plates.
SERVES 4–6 | PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes | COOKING TIME 1 hour (mostly unattended)
NOTE: The whole dish can be made a few hours in advance and reheated under the grill just before serving.
Our best
BBQ CHICKEN.
To me, a really good BBQ chicken is just about the holy grail of braai fare (aside from good old boerie rolls, of course). Done just right (and by this I mean classic home-brewed BBQ sauce, butterflied, basted and beautifully tender), it takes an army to keep me from devouring it all. So here’s my version of ‘BBQ chicken done just right’. I like to serve this with sweet potato wedges and a small crunchy side salad, or even sliced and piled high on fresh bread rolls with lashings of a good-quality mayonnaise.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- 1 spatchcock-style chicken, or 8 mixed chicken pieces, skin on
BBQ sauce
- 2 Tbsp olive oil
- 2 Tbsp tomato sauce
- 2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
- 1 Tbsp runny honey
- 1 Tbsp lemon juice
- 1 tsp Dijon mustard
- 1 tsp wholegrain mustard
- 1 fresh chilli, deseeded and chopped, or
- 1 tsp dried chilli flakes
- 1 tsp paprika
- 1⁄2 tsp dried coriander
- 1⁄2 tsp ground cinnamon
- 1⁄2 tsp ground aniseed
- 1⁄2 tsp dried thyme
- 2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
- generous pinch each of salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 2 Tbsp hot water
WHAT TO DO
- Combine the BBQ sauce ingredients in a jug.
- Baste the chicken with the BBQ sauce, cover with clingfilm and refrigerate for as long as possible before cooking (overnight is ideal, but not essential). Remove from the fridge and bring to room temperature about 20 minutes before cooking.
- Cook on the barbecue for 30–35 minutes, with the lid down if you have one, turning halfway, until cooked through. Baste with any extra sauce every 10 minutes or so during cooking.
SERVES 3–4 | PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes | COOKING TIME 30–35 minutes
NOTE: To turn a chicken into a flattie, lay the chicken so that the drumsticks are on top. Cut along the breastbone with kitchen scissors (most recipes recommend cutting down the breastbone, but I find this much easier). Pull the chicken apart and lay it flat on a roasting tray.
GOURMET BEEF BURGERS
with caramelised onion & pear relish, & bacon marmalade.
This hardly needs any further introduction than the title, except that, very obviously, it’s stratospherically delicious. And not because I made it, but because the combination of down-to-earth beef burgers with caramelised onions and pears, and heavenly bacon marmalade, is almost without equal. The recipe for the bacon marmalade is on page 171.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- 750 g beef mince
- 1 red onion, finely chopped
- 1⁄2 cup crumbled feta cheese
- 1 Tbsp chopped fresh mint
- 1 Tbsp chopped fresh basil
- 1 tsp dried coriander
- 1 tsp dried cumin
- 1 tsp salt
- 1⁄2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
- 1 egg
- 6 soft round hamburger rolls
Caramelised onion & pear relish
- 11⁄2 tsp olive oil
- 11⁄2 tsp butter
- 2 tsp lemon juice
- 1 large or 2 medium red onions, chopped
- 1 sprig fresh rosemary, chopped
- 4 ripe pears, peeled, cored and roughly chopped
- 2–3 tsp brown sugar
- pinch each of salt and freshly ground black pepper
WHAT TO DO
- In a large mixing bowl or food processor, combine the mince, onion, feta, herbs, spices and egg. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to firm up.
- Meanwhile, make the relish. Heat the olive oil and butter in a heavy-based frying pan over medium-high heat. When the butter starts to foam, add the remaining ingredients, turn down the heat and leave to simmer for about 15 minutes or until the pears can be roughly mashed with a fork. Check for seasoning and set aside.
- Preheat the oven’s grill or fire up the braai or barbecue. Roll the chilled mince mixture into patty-sized balls, flattened slightly between your palms. Grill for 10–15 minutes until just off-pink in the middle.
- Serve the patties in the hamburger rolls, with plenty of relish and bacon marmalade slapped on.
SERVES 6 | PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes | REFRIGERATION TIME 30 minutes | COOKING TIME 15 minutes
NOTES: The burger patties, relish and bacon marmalade can be made the day before and refrigerated. The raw burger patties can even be frozen for up to 2 months. I suggest serving these with honey-roasted sweet potato wedges or homemade shoestring fries.
BEEF BRISKET & ROSA TOMATO RAGÙ
with penne.
Whatever the weather, this is my friend. But most especially when it’s chilly outside and I’m in need of real stand-up-and-be-counted comfort food. And I always find real contentment in having something bubbling away in the oven for a few quiet hours; it’s like sitting in perfectly peaceful silence with one of your favourite people.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- 1 Tbsp butter
- 2 Tbsp olive oil
- 750 g beef brisket, roughly cut into 2 cm cubes and seasoned (bones included)
- 1 medium red onion, roughly chopped
- 3–4 sprigs fresh thyme, chopped, or 1 tsp dried
- 2 sprigs fresh rosemary, chopped, or 1 tsp dried
- 1 clove garlic, chopped
- 2 cups rosa tomatoes
- 250 g mushrooms, roughly chopped
- 11⁄2 cups red wine
- 2 cups beef stock
- 2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
- 1 Tbsp brown sugar
- 1 tsp each of salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 400–500 g penne pasta
- 1 cup shaved Parmesan cheese
WHAT TO DO
- Preheat the oven to 140 °C. Heat the butter and 1 Tbsp of the olive oil in a heavy-based ovenproof pot over high heat on the stovetop. When the butter starts to foam, add the meat in two batches and brown on all sides, 3–4 minutes per batch. Remove the meat with a slotted spoon and set aside.
- Turn down the heat to medium-high and fry the onion, thyme and rosemary for about 3 minutes until the onion is translucent. Add the garlic and fry for another minute, and then add the tomatoes, mushrooms and the remaining olive oil and cook for about 4 minutes.
- Return the meat to the pot, pour in the red wine, stock and balsamic vinegar, and add the sugar, salt and pepper.
- Cover the pot with a lid and place in the oven. Leave to cook for 4 hours or until the meat is beautifully cooked and falling apart. Remove from the oven and allow to rest while you cook the pasta according to the packet instructions.
- Serve the penne in warmed bowls, topped with the ragù and shavings of Parmesan.
SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes | COOKING TIME 4 hours (mostly unattended)
NOTES: This is even more delicious made a day or two in advance, and it freezes extremely well. If you prefer, serve the brisket with rice, mashed sweet potatoes or mashed butter beans that have been gently fried in a little garlic and olive oil. Or, turn it into a pie by filling a lightly greased ovenproof casserole dish with the ragù, topping it with a sheet of puff pastry and baking at 200 °C until golden.
ZANZIBARI LAMB PILAU.
Pilau is very similar to our much-loved biryani here in South Africa, but has fewer steps and is a true one-pot wonder without compromising on any of the flavour. It’s traditionally feasting food, made for special occasions, but this pared-down version makes a pretty smashingly simple week-night meal too. The flavours remind me of similar spiced goat and mutton stews eaten in East Africa, particularly Zanzibari pilau. This is my version, which I’ve tried to keep as simple as possible.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- 1 Tbsp cooking oil
- 1 Tbsp butter
- 1 medium onion, finely chopped
- 1 Tbsp harissa paste
- 1 tsp sugar
- 750 g lamb fillet or chump chops, cubed
- 2 cloves garlic, chopped
- 2 potatoes, peeled and cubed
- 11⁄4 cups basmati rice
- 1 cup lamb or vegetable stock
- 1 cup boiling water
- 2 tomatoes, chopped
- 1 Tbsp lemon juice
- zest of 1⁄2 lemon
- handful toasted pistachio nuts or almonds
- handful dried apricots, chopped
- 1 Tbsp chopped fresh mint
- 1 Tbsp chopped fresh coriander
WHAT TO DO
- Heat the oil and butter in a large pot over medium-high heat. When the butter starts to foam, fry the onion for about 4 minutes until translucent. Add the harissa paste and sugar and fry for a further 2 minutes.
- Add the lamb, and a little extra oil if needed, and fry for 3–4 minutes until lightly browned. Add the garlic and cook for a further minute.
- Meanwhile, microwave the potatoes in a covered container on high for 5 minutes or until softened.
- Add the rice to the pot, gently stir to coat and then add the stock, water, tomatoes and potatoes. Put on the lid, turn down the heat to low and leave to simmer for 20 minutes or until the rice is cooked through and fluffy. Make sure the lid is on properly and do not stir during cooking. Add a little more water during cooking only if necessary. Using a fork, stir through the lemon juice and zest, nuts and apricots.
- Serve immediately garnished with the fresh mint and coriander.
SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes | COOKING TIME 20–30 minutes
ROASTED LAMB NECK
with red wine & lentils, & parsnip purée.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- 2 Tbsp olive oil
- 1 kg lamb neck, roughly cubed
- 1 tsp dried coriander
- 1 tsp ground cumin
- 1 stick cinnamon, or 1⁄2 tsp ground
- 2 sprigs fresh rosemary, chopped, or 1 tsp dried
- 2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
- 1 × 410 g can chopped peeled tomatoes
- 1 fresh chilli, deseeded and chopped, or 1⁄2 tsp dried chilli flakes
- 2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
- 1 Tbsp chutney
- 1⁄2 cup red wine
- 1⁄4 cup lentils
- 2 cups lamb stock, or more if needed
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
Parsnip purée
- 4–6 large parsnips, peeled and roughly chopped
- 1 Tbsp butter
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 2–4 Tbsp milk, if needed
WHAT TO DO
- Preheat the oven to 180 °C.
- Heat the olive oil in a heavy-based ovenproof frying pan and brown the lamb with the spices for 4–5 minutes. Just before the meat has finished browning, stir in the rosemary and garlic.
- Add the tomatoes, chilli, balsamic vinegar, chutney, wine, lentils and stock. Put on the lid, place the pan in the oven and cook for 1 hour 30 minutes, or until the lamb is tender and the sauce has thickened and is a deep red colour. Add more stock if needed.
- Just before the meat is ready, make the parsnip purée. Boil the parsnips in lightly salted water until cooked through and easily pierced with a knife. Drain and mash with the butter. Season with salt and pepper, and add a little milk to loosen if necessary.
- Once the lamb is cooked, season to taste and serve with the parsnip purée.
SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes | COOKING TIME 2 hours (mostly unattended)
NOTE: Alternatively, serve with mashed potatoes.
SLOW-ROASTED PORK
with caramelised fennel & pear, & a lime marmalade glaze.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- 2 cloves garlic, peeled
- 1 pear, cored and cut into sixths
- 6 small fennel bulbs, trimmed
- 2 red onions, quartered
- 8 baby potatoes
- 1 Tbsp olive oil
- 1 tsp dried thyme
- 1⁄2 tsp ground aniseed
- 500 g pork belly roast
- generous pinch each of salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 100 ml ginger ale (or ginger beer, cider or vegetable stock)
- 3 Tbsp lime marmalade
- 1 Tbsp runny honey
- 1 Tbsp lemon juice
- 1 tsp Dijon mustard
- 1 tsp wholegrain mustard
- 1 tsp cornflour mixed with 1 Tbsp cold water
WHAT TO DO
- Preheat the oven to 180 °C.
- In a shallow ovenproof casserole dish, toss the garlic, pear, fennel, onions and potatoes in the olive oil. Sprinkle over the thyme and aniseed, and lay the pork belly roast on top. Season with the salt and pepper, and pour in the ginger ale.
- Roast for 30 minutes on the bottom shelf of the oven.
- Meanwhile, combine the lime marmalade, honey, lemon juice and mustards for the glaze. After 30 minutes, pour half over the pork and return to the oven to cook for a further 30 minutes.
- Pour over the remaining glaze and cook for 10–15 minutes more.
- Transfer the roast to a carving board, cover with tinfoil and allow to rest for 10–15 minutes before carving.
- While the meat is resting, transfer the vegetables with a slotted spoon to a warmed serving bowl. Drain the juice into a gravy boat and add the cornflour paste. Stir until thickened into a nice gravy.
- Carve the meat and serve with the vegetables and gravy.
SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes | COOKING TIME 75 minutes (mostly unattended)
baked beetroot &
GOAT’S CHEESE RISOTTO.
This is gorgeously simple, earthy, vibrant and quite dramatic in both appearance and taste. Though not many things in life are plain black or white, one’s relationship with beetroot does usually seem to be clearly defined by either love or hate. If you love it, enjoy this gorgeously gooey and almost electric-pink risotto. If not, where you see beetroot just imagine butternut – you will enjoy this.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- 6 fresh whole beetroot (about 750 g)
- 2 Tbsp olive oil
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 tsp butter
- 1 large red onion, finely chopped
- 1 clove garlic, finely chopped
- 11⁄2 cups Arborio rice
- 1⁄2 cup white wine
- 700 ml chicken or vegetable stock
- 1⁄4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
- 1 Tbsp chopped fresh dill
- 1 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley
- 60 g goat’s cheese, crumbled
WHAT TO DO
- Preheat the oven to 180 °C. Line a baking tray with tinfoil.
- Trim the beetroot of their stalks and microwave in a covered container on high for 5 minutes or boil in a saucepan of water until soft. Peel them and cut into large wedges. Wear kitchen gloves if you don’t want to stain your hands pink.
- Transfer the wedges to the baking tray, toss with 1 Tbsp of the olive oil, season with salt and pepper and roast for 30 minutes.
- Meanwhile, heat the remaining olive oil with the butter in a large ovenproof saucepan over medium heat. When the butter starts to foam, fry the onion for 3–5 minutes until translucent, then add the garlic and cook for another minute. Add the rice and stir until well coated, then add the wine and simmer for 5 minutes.
- Stir in half of the stock, put on the lid and cook in the oven for 25–30 minutes until the rice is cooked but still al dente. Add the remaining stock halfway through.
- Blend a quarter of the roasted beetroot into a purée and chop the rest into small pieces. Add the Parmesan, beetroot purée and chopped beetroot to the cooked risotto, stir well and check for seasoning. Leave to stand for 5 minutes before serving with a scattering of fresh dill, parsley and goat’s cheese.
SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes | COOKING TIME 75 minutes (mostly unattended)
BBQ PULLED PORK SARMIES
with red cabbage, pear & fennel slaw.
This could easily be one of my favourite recipes in this book, or of all time for that matter. It’s a near-perfect combination.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- 550 g pork belly or shoulder
- 10–12 Rosa tomatoes, halved
- 1 red onion, roughly chopped
- 2 sprigs fresh rosemary
- 1 cup chicken stock
- 1 Tbsp olive oil
- 1 tsp paprika
- 1 tsp ground aniseed
- 1 tsp Dijon mustard
- 2 cloves garlic, crushed
- 1 heaped tsp grated fresh ginger
- 1 level tsp dried chilli flakes
- 2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
- 1 Tbsp brown sugar
- 1⁄4 cup red wine
- pinch each of salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 4 fresh white bread rolls or wraps, for serving
Red cabbage, pear & fennel slaw
- 1 sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1 cm cubes
- 1 small red cabbage, finely chopped
- 2 small fennel bulbs, trimmed 1 cm up the stem
- 1⁄2 pear, grated or finely chopped
- 2 Tbsp mayonnaise mixed with 1 Tbsp lemon juice
- 1 Tbsp each chopped fresh parsley and mint
WHAT TO DO
- Preheat the oven to 200 °C. Lay the pork in an ovenproof dish that has a lid and add the tomatoes, onion and rosemary. Combine half of the stock with the remaining ingredients in a jug and pour over the pork.
- Cook uncovered for 30 minutes, then turn down the heat to 140 °C and add the remaining stock. Put on the lid and cook for a further 2 hours, followed by another 30 minutes with the lid off. The sauce must have thickened and you should literally be able to ‘pull’ the meat apart with two forks. Check the liquid at 30 minute intervals to make sure the meat does not dry out. If you need to add more liquid, add about another 100 ml stock or water.
- In preparation for making the slaw, boil the sweet potato cubes in a saucepan of salted water until cooked through.
- To make the slaw, place all the ingredients in a bowl and gently toss to combine. Season to taste.
- When the pork is done, remove it from the oven dish and leave to rest for 20 minutes. While the pork is resting, reduce the leftover sauce in a saucepan on the stovetop. Remove the crackling from the rested meat and either grill it until crispy and eat, or discard (I say eat!). Shred the pork using two forks and mix it in with the reduced sauce.
- Pile the pulled pork into fresh white bread rolls or fold into wraps, and serve with the slaw on the side.
SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes | COOKING TIME 3–4 hours
NOTE: Use a food processor to finely chop the red cabbage and pear for the slaw.