DEMI-BAGUETTES

MAKES THREE 14- TO 16-INCH BAGUETTES

A baguette is not merely a long, thin loaf of white bread. The flavor secret lies in the bread starter—in this case, a poolish, which is made with equal parts water and flour, by weight. It imparts a complex, well-rounded flavor to the baguette or, as here, the demi-baguettes (the cute French term for mini-baguettes). As you do with a sourdough starter, be sure to start your poolish two days before you want your bread!

The ideal baguette is crusty on the outside, pillowy and slightly chewy on the inside. The Baking Steel helps you attain this in two ways. First, when the bread hits the heat of the steel, it instantly sets on the bottom, which causes the loaf to puff and attain a perfect cylindrical shape. Second, the equal heat dispersion of the Baking Steel helps the bread bake evenly, so the coloring is perfect on the exterior and the interior is not overcooked. A quick spray of water on the dough just before you close the oven door helps the bread set with a crust that is firm but won’t tear the roof of your mouth when you take a bite.

Poolish

100 grams (¾ cup) all-purpose flour

0.25 gram (pinch) instant yeast

½ cup water, at room temperature

Baguettes

150 grams (1 cup) bread flour

150 grams (1¼ cups) all-purpose flour

1 gram (¼ teaspoon) instant yeast

8 grams (about 1½ teaspoons) fine sea salt

¾ cup water, warm (about 105°F)

Spray bottle with water

1. To make the poolish, combine the flour and yeast in a large bowl. With a wooden spoon, gradually mix in the water. Let it sit at room temperature for two days in an airtight container.

2. To make the dough, combine the flours, yeast, and salt in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the dough-hook attachment. Add the poolish mixture and about half the water and mix on low for 3 minutes, gradually adding the rest of the water as you mix.

3. Scrape down the bowl with a rubber spatula and continue to mix on low for 6 to 8 minutes. The dough should come together in a smooth ball and spring back slightly when indented with a finger.

4. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl and cover with a clean kitchen towel or plastic wrap. Allow to rest for 1 hour.

5. After an hour, turn the dough out onto a floured work surface. Punch the dough down and flatten it into a rectangle with your hands. Fold it horizontally into thirds—the way you would a business letter—and press with the palm of your hand to seal. Allow the dough to rest on the countertop, covered with a clean, damp kitchen towel, for an hour and then repeat the fold, resting after, for a total of 4 folds.

6. Preheat the oven for 45 to 60 minutes at 460°F with the Baking Steel inside (so that I don’t forget, I often do this right after the second folding).

7. Directly after performing the third folding, divide your dough into 3 equal portions (about 245 grams each) and shape each portion into a long, thin roll about 15 inches long. Let rest for 10 minutes.

8. Use a bread lame or a razor blade to mark the top of your bread with three diagonal slits, about 4 inches apart.

9. Using a pizza peel, launch each baguette onto the hot Baking Steel. Just before closing the oven door, use the spray bottle to spritz the steel with water to create a burst of steam.

10. Bake for about 18 minutes, using a pizza peel to rotate the loaves halfway through baking. Once the loaves are golden on top, remove from the oven and transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

11. Store at room temperature in a paper bag for 2 to 3 days or freeze for up to a month.

What Are Pre-Ferments (and Are They Worth It)?

A pre-ferment (such as the poolish used above) is a small portion of dough that is made in advance, sometimes several hours or even days ahead. Depending on the ingredients used, it can have a stiff, Play-Doh-like texture or it can be almost liquid.

Waiting for hours or days for a pre-ferment to develop can be annoying, and it does beg the question: Is it worth it? I vote yes. While it might seem like wasted time, your pre-ferment is actually giving you a head start on bread making. Allowing the yeasts to develop imparts a more deeply yeasty, sour note to your bread (like sourdough), which adds a lot of flavor and complexity. This can be the difference between “tastes good for homemade” and truly professional-quality bread.

The poolish, favored by most French bakeries, is the most common pre-ferment. It imparts a moist crumb, a tender, not gummy chew, and great all-around flavor.