Chapter 1

The Plumbing Do-It-Yourselfer

In This Chapter

Doing plumbing tasks yourself

Hiring a plumber when you need to

Understanding building codes

C onsidering the range of plumbing-related replacements and repairs, a do-it-yourselfer can find plenty to do. Plumbing skills are sort of like computer skills: After you know how to format a proposal or generate a spreadsheet, you can do it again and again, although it may have seemed difficult at first. Well, after you unclog a kitchen drain, you can use that skill (and the tools you acquire in the process) many more times. You can then confidently tackle a stopped-up bathroom drain and, before long, become the neighborhood know-it-all for solving plumbing problems — all because you took the first step and plowed through the shreds of avocado in your kitchen sink’s garbage disposal.

Figuring Out When to Do It Yourself

You can figure out how to do most plumbing jobs with a little know-how, an understanding of the rules (codes), and some spare time. Some of the easiest plumbing jobs to do yourself — mostly preventive maintenance — are the following:

Clearing slow-draining sinks and tubs: This task usually involves using a plunger or opening a trap to remove hair, food, or paper. You may need to use a hand auger to get the proper flow of water through the drain. Tub drains are harder to clean than sink drains, and getting the pop-up drain stopper properly adjusted may take several tries, but you can do it yourself. (Chapters 4, 5, and 6 cover a variety of ways to unclog drains.)

Repairing or replacing leaky valves: The steady drip-drip-drip of a faucet is certainly annoying, but it’s a repair that can wait until the weekend so that you have time to get your hands on the correct repair parts before you begin work. (Chapter 8 shows you how.)

If you don’t already have shutoff valves (covered in Chapter 2) on the water supply lines under your sink, this is a good time to add them. Future repairs will be much easier when you can shut off the water to individual sinks or appliances. You won’t have any questions, such as “Dad, when can I wash my hair?” when the main water shutoff valve (also discussed in Chapter 2) is closed for plumbing repairs.

Solving toilet-tank problems: Whether the problem is a valve that won’t shut off or a tankball that won’t seat properly, these repairs can wait until you have the time to work on them (see Chapters 6 and 7). But don’t wait too long. A small leak can waste plenty of water.

Maintaining the washing machine: Don’t forget to check the hoses. If they’ve been in use for several years, change them. Purchase a set of replacement hoses that have a braided reinforced cover to prevent the hoses from bursting. The small extra cost is worth it; if one should burst, you’ll be calling for help from more pros than just a plumber.

Preventing winter freezing: You can prepare for winter by insulating water and drain lines that are subject to freezing or by wrapping them with automatic heat tape. (Don’t use heat tape on plastic pipe, though — it will eventually deform the pipe.) Read the directions on the package: Suggested applications for the tape and its electrical requirements should be described clearly. This prep work may save you from a huge mess after a sudden subzero freeze.

Knowing When to Call a Pro

Don’t lull yourself into believing that you’ll never need a plumber. If you have a plumbing emergency, you and your family need to know two things:

The location of the main water shutoff valve (see Chapter 2)

The name and phone number of a reliable plumbing repair company

In addition to relying on your local plumber for occasional emergencies, the following situations are best left to professionals:

Low water pressure throughout the house: Several factors can cause this problem: obstructions (rust or debris) in the water lines, which can start at the meter and run all the way to the faucet aerators (small strainers on the end of the spigot); low water pressure from the city supply or a well; or even poor supply-line design. A good plumber knows how to analyze the problem.

No hot water: It’s obvious what happened, but unless the hot water tank is leaking, it may take a while to find out why. If the tank is electric, it could be a bad heating element, a tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse, a faulty thermostat, or a bad overload switch. On gas heaters, thermocouple burners and igniters can fail.

No one likes to be without hot water for long. Your grandmother may have heated bath water on the stove, but people don’t do it that way today. Call a plumber for this one — he or she likely has loads of experience and can tell you if you need a new heater or if the existing one can be repaired. If the heater needs to be replaced, your plumber can carry the new one to the basement, hook it up, make sure that it works properly, and dispose of the old one.

Sewer line stoppage: If you’ve tried all the tricks you know to get your sewer line to drain properly, yet backups continue, you probably have a bad plug in the line that runs out to the main sewer. (Tree roots are often the cause.) Rather than rent one of the big sewer rodding machines that you may break — or that may damage your sewer — call a plumber or drain-cleaning service. If they get in trouble, they’ll make the repairs.

Frozen pipes: If a pipe freezes, close the main water shutoff valve (see Chapter 2) before attempting to thaw the pipe and open a faucet nearby. Check carefully to see whether the pipe has already burst or cracked. If it’s bad news, you may need a plumber. If not, hair dryers and heat guns are the safest ways to thaw a pipe. If you must use a propane torch, do so with great care — old, dry wood (which usually surrounds pipes) catches fire easily. Even if the pipe isn’t burst or cracked, you still may want to call a plumber — some plumbers simply replace a section of frozen pipe rather than thaw it.

Extensive water line damage (usually caused by freezing): Repairing the problem can take up much of your valuable time. It’s better to pay a plumber so that you can earn money at your regular job.

Hiring a licensed plumber

Your local government wants to limit who can mess around with the public sewer and water lines, so they offer licenses to plumbing contractors who pass a rigorous test.

All licensed plumbing contractors are plumbers, but not all plumbers are licensed. A plumbing contractor can have other (sometimes unlicensed) plumbers working under his or her license — the licensed plumbing contractor is responsible for the workers’ workmanship. The government may revoke this license if the plumber has a history of doing shoddy work. Most professionals take pride in their work and value their licenses.

If you consider hiring a plumber, find one who is licensed. This is especially important if you’re hiring an individual to do a side job for you or work on the weekends — you don’t have much recourse with an unlicensed plumber if the work is unsatisfactory.

Find your plumber at a party

We find that the best place to locate any contractor — including a plumber — is at a neighborhood party. Why? Because word of mouth is still the best source for a referral that you can get. Who better to work on your house than someone who has worked in your neighborhood, where the houses are often of the same vintage? (Read that as “similar plumbing systems.”)

Working up a plumbing contract

Just as important as finding the right plumber to do the job is having a clear written agreement with the plumber before any work begins. The agreement doesn’t have to be complicated, but it should contain some basic points. A contract with a plumber to repair, replace, or install a fixture should include the following:

A description of the work to be completed

A detailed list of the materials (brand name, style, color, or other specifications of the exact materials) to be used

The cost of materials and a list of all warranties that the manufacturer provides for any fixtures

The cost of labor

The job installation date

The amount of deposit, if required

Understanding Building Codes, Permits, and Inspections

Building codes are guidelines created to ensure the safety and building standards of new and remodeled buildings. They cover all the components of a building, including its plumbing lines, by specifying the minimum standards for materials and methods used. Codes work hand in hand with building permits and inspections to guarantee that good workmanship is performed and quality materials are used.

The most important thing for a do-it-yourselfer to know about building and plumbing codes is that they exist, that they’re important, and they must be followed when repairing, remodeling, or building a home. It’s impossible for a homeowner to know all the interpretations of these codes, but building inspectors and licensed plumbers can provide the answers.

Most of the United States is governed by rules made by one or a combination of three building code organizations: ICBO, SBCCI, and BOCA. (In the future, the International Building Code will be the only code.) Each community has the opportunity to modify these codes to suit its own special situations and idiosyncrasies. Unfortunately, though, the rules don’t always seem so logical.

Don’t count on the large home centers carrying the proper materials for your area. These chains order supplies for all their stores, and one store may carry materials that aren’t acceptable in your community. Small hardware and plumbing supply stores are usually more knowledgeable about code issues. The final authority, though, is a city code official.

The right side of plumbing codes

We can’t possibly include all the rules in this book, so it’s up to you to find out what the rules are where you live so that you don’t make any errors. Before you plan any plumbing job, first check the local building codes to make sure that you know the requirements. You can purchase a copy of your local building codes from your town government: Go to the town hall and find the building department. You may find that this document is filled with technical jargon, so consider having a discussion with the plumbing inspector in which you explain your project. In most cases, he or she will be able to give you the necessary advice to keep you on the right side of the codes.

Permits and inspections

When do you need a permit? That depends. In general, if you’re replacing a plumbing fixture, faucet, or appliance, no permit is required. If you’re relocating a fixture, faucet, or appliance, though, you may need a permit. If you’re adding or extending new plumbing lines or installing a major appliance, such as a water heater, it’s likely that you need a permit.

To obtain a permit, you fill out a simple form that describes the work and its estimated value. If you’re doing the work yourself, you indicate this fact; otherwise, you supply the name(s) and license number(s) of the contractor(s) you plan to hire. On large jobs, the town may require that you or the contractor post a bond, which guarantees that the work meets the code. If it doesn’t, the contractor or you may have to forfeit the bond money. In our town, a building permit and inspection goes for $35.

Your best bet is to get a copy of your local building codes (or just the plumbing part of the codes) from your local building department so that you have a clear-cut explanation of the requirements. You can find the building department under the local government listing in the phone book.

We’ve had our ups and downs with building inspectors, but in most cases, they’re there to help, not to hinder or halt the work that you want to do. Depending on the extent of the project, you may have to have two inspections: one after you’ve worked on plumbing pipes and lines (behind the wall), and a second inspection when the wall is closed in. Keep this in mind when you’re scheduling your work and the inspections.