Distance: 120 miles (190km)
Time: One to three days
Start: Orlando
End: Fort De Soto Park
Points to note: Traffic can be heavy in the metro area, especially on I-275 across Tampa Bay, so allow extra time to arrive at your destination.
With its busy port and downtown business district, the city of Tampa is the commercial center of Florida’s Gulf coast. Across Tampa Bay lie St Petersburg and Clearwater, the largest of the communities covering the Pinellas Peninsula, with a string of barrier-island beaches along the Gulf of Mexico. Together they form one of Florida’s largest metropolitan areas with a population rivaling Miami’s, but on the whole the bay area maintains a relaxed, casual atmosphere.
Tampa is only an hour+ drive from Orlando (avoid rush hour), and even if you only have a day to spare, an excursion here gives you plenty of variety and a chance to see this vibrant Gulf Coast region. Many cultural institutions are situated along the new 2.4-mile (4 km) Tampa Riverwalk (www.thetampariverwalk.com), a pedestrian pathway that also links to parks, restaurants, historical monuments, and hotels.
This route takes in some of the highlights of Tampa Bay, from Tampa’s northeast corner, downtown to Ybor City, across the bay to St Petersburg, and on to Fort De Soto Park, with one of the country’s most beautiful beaches.
Canoeing up the Hillsborough River
Alamy
Canoe Escape
The Hillsborough River runs 54 miles (87km) from Green Swamp to Tampa Bay. Fed by pure water from Crystal Springs, it provides around 75 percent of the city’s drinking water. Some 20 miles (32km) of the river are protected in a wilderness park, providing a rich habitat for migrating birds and local wildlife. It’s one of the best wildlife viewing spots in all of Florida. The ideal way to see it is from the river itself, on a canoe or kayak trip with Canoe Escape 1 [map] (12702 US 301, Thonotosassa, FL 33592; tel: 813-986-2067; www.canoeescape.com; daily 9am–5pm).
From Orlando, take I-4 West to I-75 (exit 9). Go north on I-75 to Fowler Avenue (exit 265). Exit to your right (east) until it dead-ends into US 301. Turn left and drive 3.5 miles (5.6km). Turn into John B. Sargeant Park on the left-hand side. Canoe Escape is located within the park.
Most trips are self-guided and range from 4.5 miles (7km; 2 hours) to 9 miles (14km; 4 hours). There is a longer trip for seasoned paddlers. Transportation and orientation is provided. Interpretive guided trips with an experienced chaperon are also available.
Kumba’s many loops
Busch Gardens
This peaceful and scenic river, lined with cypress, oaks, and thick woodlands, truly is an escape from the busy cities and theme parks. Paddling here is gentle and relaxed, yet there’s a real sense of adventure as you glide along the banks, looking for wildlife. Two of the top birds to see are limpkins and Roseate spoonbills, both prominent in Central and South America and at the top of their range here in Florida. Depending on conditions and the season, you may see alligators, turtles, wild pigs, raccoons, and a variety of herons, egrets, hawks, woodpeckers, kingfishers, wood storks, and anhingas.
Busch Gardens Tampa Bay
Wildlife of a larger variety can be seen 2 miles (3km) west of I-75 (exit 54) at Busch Gardens Tampa Bay 2 [map] (10165 N McKinley Drive, Tampa; tel: 813-884-4386; www.buschgardenstampa.com; daily 10pm–6pm, but check website for changes). This popular theme park combines spectacular thrill rides and live shows with one of North America’s largest zoos. If you don’t want to drive from Orlando, consider taking the Busch Gardens Shuttle Express (tel: 800-221-1339), which provides free round-trip transportation from several Orlando locations.
Rhinos at Busch Gardens
Busch Gardens
More than 12,000 exotic animals, including several endangered species, live in natural habitats resembling those of their native Africa. The largest is the 65-acre (26-hectare) Serengeti Plain, where zebras, giraffes, black rhinos, impalas, and other wild animals roam freely. You can view them from a train that goes around the plain or from the Skyride that goes over it. For a closer encounter, take the Serengeti Safari, a half-hour, off-road ride in a flatbed truck across the middle of the reserve. You’ll stop and hand-feed giraffes along the way.
Walk along the Edge of Africa for a look at lions, lemurs, crocodiles, and hippos swimming in their pool. Other highlights are the Myombe Reserve and Jungala, where you can see gorillas, chimpanzees, and tigers.
Falcon’s Fury drops 335ft (102 meters)
Busch Gardens
Busch Gardens contains some of the region’s most awesome thrill rides. Falcon’s Fury, North America’s tallest freestanding drop tower, looms at 335ft (102 meters) and takes riders soaring straight down at 60mph (97kph). SheiKra is a dive coaster that moves you 200ft (60 meters) up, then 90 degrees straight down in a floorless car going 70mph (110 kph). More death-defying loops, dives, drops, and inversions are in store on the Kumba and Montu roller coasters at opposite ends of the park. The park’s newest attraction, the Cobra’s Curse coaster, puts a spin on family thrills with a 70ft (21-meter) vertical lift that brings you face-to-face with an 80ft (25-meter) snake king’s fangs.
Adventure Island
Across the street, Adventure Island 3 [map] (10001 N McKinley Drive, Tampa; tel: 888-800-5447; https://adventureisland.com/en/tampa; hours vary by season) is a 30-acre (12-hectare) water park with a Key West theme and a combination of calm and thrilling water experiences.
Younger visitors enjoying The Florida Aquarium
Bill Serne/Visit Florida
Ybor City
Take Busch Boulevard west to I-275, and take it south to downtown Tampa and Ybor City 4 [map] (www.ybormuseum.org), one of the bay area’s most historic districts. This is Tampa’s Latin Quarter, founded in 1886 when Vicente Martinez Ybor moved his cigar-manufacturing business here from Key West. At one time Ybor City had 200 cigar factories, with hundreds of workers in each one. Master cigar craftsmen and workers from Cuba, Spain, and Italy came and made their homes in this vibrant multicultural neighborhood, also rich with German and Eastern European immigrants. The original immigrants’ backyard chickens have evolved into the current population of wild ones.
The red-brick buildings, wrought-iron balconies, and brick-lined streets survive, making it one of the most charming areas of the city. The cigar shops, still prominent here, have been joined by trendy shops and vintage-clothing boutiques. After dark, Ybor City is Tampa’s liveliest nightlife area.
The heart of the district along 7th Avenue – La Setima – is lined with bars, clubs, restaurants, cafés, and cigar bars, which come into their own after 5pm. Centro Ybor, see 1, has several good bars and cafés. Further along 7th Avenue is the beautiful tiled facade of the Columbia Restaurant, see 2, a local institution.
A Saturday market (www.ybormarket.com) takes place in Centennial Park at 9th Avenue and 19th Street. Opposite is the Ybor City Museum State Park (1818 9th Avenue; tel: 813-247-6323; www.ybormuseum.org; Wed–Sun 9am–5pm), set in an old bakery dating from 1896. Here you can watch some of the last of the master cigar rollers at work, and take a walking tour of the district. Next door, several small cottages, or casitas, where the workers once lived provide a truly fascinating look into the life of the community.
Ybor City lights up in the evening
Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications
The Florida Aquarium
From Ybor City, take 13th Street south toward the port, where it becomes Channelside Drive. Follow signs for The Florida Aquarium 5 [map] (701 Channelside Drive; tel: 813-273-4000; www.flaquarium.org; daily 9.30am–5pm), home to more than 20,000 plants and animals from around the world.
Starting on the upper level, the exhibit pathway follows a drop of rain on its journey to the depths of the ocean, passing through a variety of watery habitats beginning with Florida’s wetlands, where you’ll see playful river otters and free-flying birds. You can also get up-close views of ring-tailed lemurs and an Indian Ocean coral reef in the aquarium’s newest exhibit – Journey to Madagascar. Other highlights include views of sand tiger sharks, sea turtles, and thousands of tropical fish in a coral-reef environment that is a partial replica of the Dry Tortugas in Key West.
This excellent aquarium has numerous shows and demonstrations throughout the day that both educate and entertain, and features up-close encounters, behind-the-scenes tours, in-water guest experiences, and even a Wild Dolphin cruise on Tampa Bay. There is an on-site café, and a new outdoor recreational area features a splash pad, outdoor bar, and 4-D theater.
Tampa Bay History Center
Continue along Channelside Drive to the start of Tampa Riverwalk, a landscaped trail along the waterfont with several sculptures, memorials, parks, restaurants, and other places of interest. The next few sights are located along the Riverwalk, so you can take a break from driving.
Learn about Tampa’s Native American residents, its pirates, and current-day favorites – like its Buccaneers football team – at the growing Tampa Bay History Center 6 [map] (801 Old Water Street; tel: 813-228-0097; http://tampabayhistorycenter.org; daily 10am–5pm). Its impressive map gallery contains nearly 3,000 maps and charts, which provide a visual representation of Florida’s history and development over almost 500 years.
Glazer’s Children’s Museum
Further along the Tampa Riverwalk is the Glazer’s Children’s Museum 7 [map] (110 W Gasparilla Plaza; tel: 813-443-3861; glazermuseum.org; Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 1pm–6pm), a big draw for families. More than 170 interactive exhibits in zones ranging from Gadget Garage, with its focus on robotics, to Central Bank, where children learn to earn and save money with simple math, matching and physical activities, give little ones aged 10 and under the chance to play, build, learn, and experiment. They can also climb a rock wall sized just right.
Exhibit at the Museum of Fine Arts
Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications
Alternative transport
Tampa Bay’s first electric streetcar lines were built in 1892; by 1926 they had become an essential means of transport, with nearly 24-million passengers. But two decades later they were discontinued after World War II. Today, TECO Line trolleys (www.tecolinestreetcar.org) are rolling through the city once again. Public buses 4 and 19 run from Downtown to Hyde Park; the TECO Line streetcar connects Ybor City to these areas. Downtown St Petersburg is served by the Looper Trolley (http://loopertrolley.com), while the Suncoast Beach Trolley (www.psta.net/beachtrolley.php) makes its way along the Gulf Coast. The Downtowner (www.ridedowntowner.com/cities/tampa/) offers free shuttle rides through an app.
See the area by boat via the bright yellow Pirate Water Taxi line (http://piratewatertaxi.com), offering day passes along the waterfront, or by bicycle. Coast Bike Share (http://coastbikeshare.com) has rental stations throughout downtown Tampa.
Tampa Museum of Art
Continue along the Riverwalk to the Tampa Museum of Art 8 [map] (120 W Gasparilla Plaza; tel: 813-274-8130; www.tampamuseum.org; Mon–Thu 11am–7pm, Fri until 10pm, Sun until 5pm). It contains a fine collection of Greek and Roman antiquities, as well as artworks from the 20th century to the present.
The renowned Dalí Museum
Getty Images
The Dalí Museum
Arguably the area’s most impressive museum lies across Tampa Bay in St Petersburg. You’ll need to get back in the car and take I-275 south across the Howard Frankland Bridge. Then take I-175 East (exit 22, on your left) towards Tropicana Field. Merge onto 5th Avenue/South Dali Boulevard until you reach the artfully shaped glass-panelled Dalí Museum 9 [map] on the left (1 Dali Boulevard, St Petersburg; tel: 727-823-3767; www.thedali.org; daily 10am–5.30pm, Thu until 8pm); it’s the only three-star Michelin-rated museum in the south.
This excellent three-floor museum houses the largest collection of Salvador Dalí’s works outside of Spain. Among its 2,000 pieces are eight master works. It is based on the private collection amassed by A. Reynolds Morse, a Cleveland industrialist, and his wife, Eleanor.
The works are displayed on a rotating basis, in changing exhibitions that also incorporate works on loan from top collections around the world. Take a free docent or audio tour for a fascinating insight into the artist and his works. The gift shop has an exceptional collection of art-related items, 85 percent of them exclusive to the museum, and the Café Gala has Spanish bites.
Museum of Fine Arts
There is another art museum not to be missed nearby in downtown St Petersburg. Head northeast on Dali Boulevard, which turns into Bayshore Drive SE as you bear left. After a few blocks turn left onto Central Avenue SE, then right onto Beach Drive NE, to reach the Museum of Fine Arts ) [map] (255 Beach Drive NE; tel: 727-896-2667; http://mfastpete.org; Mon–Wed and Fri–Sat 10am–5pm, Thu 10am–8pm, Sun noon–5pm). Monet, Morisot, Rodin, O’Keeffe, and Willem de Kooning are among the major artists represented here. There is also an outstanding photography collection, as well as displays of pre-Columbian, Native American, African, Egyptian, Asian, and Greek and Roman art.
For a well-deserved meal, head to Farmtable Kitchen, see 3, for Michael Mina’s hearty creations.
Idyllic Fort De Soto Park beach
Gareth Kelly/Visit Florida
Chihuly glasswork
If you have some extra time in St Petersburg, walk to the multi-part Morean Arts Center, which is best known for the Chihuly Collection (720 Central Avenue; tel: 727-822-7872; www.moreanartscenter.org/chihuly), which features a permanent collection of fabulous, unearthly glass creations by artist Dale Chihuly. Admission includes a live glassblowing demonstration at the Morean Glass Studio & Hot Shop, plus visits to the nearby Morean Arts Center and the Morean Center for Clay (located in the Warehouse Arts District), featuring contemporary art by local, regional, and national artists.
Fort De Soto Park and beach
You’re spoiled for choice with the string of beaches ranging all the way along the barrier islands on the Gulf Coast. For a real gem, however, take I-275 south to the Pinellas Bayway (toll) to reach Fort De Soto Park ! [map] (3500 Pinellas Bayway S, Tierra Verde; tel: 727-582-2267).
With good swimming and three miles (5km) of pure white sand, Fort De Soto Park beach is regularly named as one of the best beaches in the US. The park contains a historic fort built during the Spanish-American War, fishing piers, campsites, and walking trails through a wild, natural landscape. Visit during the week and you may find you have it largely to yourself.
Food and drink
1 Centro Ybor
8th Avenue between 15th and 17th streets, Ybor City; www.centroybor.com; $
Covering two blocks, this complex has several good bars, including the Tampa Bay Brewing Company, as well as cafés and restaurants for a coffee or quick bite to eat.
2 Columbia Restaurant
2117 E. 7th Avenue, Ybor City; tel: 813-248-4961; $$$
Five generations of the same family have been serving Cuban classics in this personable Ybor City restaurant — the oldest in the state, dating to 1905. It has spawned fancier, less personable clones elsewhere in Central Florida.
3 Farmtable Kitchen
179 2nd Avenue North, St. Petersburg; tel: 727-523-6297; www.localegourmetmarket.com/farmtable-kitchen; $$–$$$
Creative and grilled foods, plus pizzas, from celebrity chef Michael Mina, served on the top floor of the bi-level gourmet food hall Locale Market.