Chapter 4
Bringin’ In the Big Guns or Doin’ It Solo
In This Chapter
Looking at who can help
Finding the right people to help you
Making sure to have a contract
Giving the final okay
In a perfect DIY world, every homeowner would successfully tackle and complete every step of her kitchen-remodeling project all on her own. But unfortunately, many remodeling projects include steps that most folks can’t or don’t want to handle. And if you want your new kitchen to look like a page out of Architectural Digest and not out of Bob and Al’s Pretty Good Ways to Tear Things Apart, you may need to call in professionals along the way.
Evaluating your skill level and recognizing that you need to bring in the big guns are both key steps. Knowing what to ask these folks and what to expect from them are just as critical. This chapter examines the many steps you’ll need to take if you decide you need to hire a contractor. I also overview the documents you’ll need to protect yourself and the people you hire.
Introducing the Pinch Hitters
Many people don’t like to admit that they need to hire someone to do certain parts of the remodel. Well, at least the guys usually don’t (or won’t!). If, however, you want the job done as quickly as possible and done right, then don’t be ashamed to hire a professional.
You need to know about three types of professionals who could get involved in a kitchen remodel: designers, architects, and contractors (including plumbers, carpenters, and electricians). Any of these folks could be involved at the outset or on an as-needed basis throughout your project. The next sections go over the role of each one so you can see which (if any) you want to use.
Dreaming up your kitchen with a designer
Kitchen designers are a great resource if you can’t zero in on what you want your new kitchen to look like or if you don’t know what your design options are. Deciding to remodel your kitchen is easy, but finding the right combination of materials, appliances, colors, and designs can be overwhelming. Thankfully that’s what a certified kitchen designer is qualified to do.
Most designers are willing to do as much or as little as you choose. You hire them as consultants and advisors, so you’re the one who determines just how much they’ll do. I’ve known people who hired designers for just a couple of hours, simply to help them find a direction for their remodeling project. I also know of couples that had a kitchen designer do everything from designing the kitchen to shopping for and purchasing all of the new items. Paying for all those services wasn’t cheap (designers charge from around $25 an hour and up, depending on their level of experience), but you should see the kitchens!
So, how do you find a good designer? Word of mouth is a good starting point, especially if you know someone who just had his kitchen redesigned and remodeled by a designer and you like the finished product. Another way to find a local designer is to check the National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA) Web site at www.nkba.org.
Asking an architect for assistance
If your kitchen remodel involves structural changes — like if you want to move a wall or install a new doorway or skylight (as shown in the color insert) — consult an architect or a qualified contractor who knows how to determine if beams and load-bearing walls are designed properly. They can also provide drawings and materials specifications so that your city’s building inspector will approve your proposed plan.
When searching for an architect, look for one who is certified by the American Institute of Architects (AIA) — the top professional organization for architects. Consider the architect’s years of experience, too. Most contractors I know use architects who have at least five years of experience. That number isn’t set in stone, but my contacts seem to agree on it.
Letting a general contractor make your project easier
A general contractor is the person who makes sure that qualified tradespeople (subcontractors or subs) are hired, that all the materials are ordered and scheduled for delivery at the right time during the construction process, and that oversees the day-to-day work on the project. The general contractor also sees that the subs (electricians, plumbers, carpenters, and so on) get paid. Find yourself a good general contractor and what you won’t notice are problems, delays, and headaches. She’ll handle all the details for you.
If you have a lead on a general contractor but can’t get to see or talk with her for a week or two, don’t be discouraged. In fact, you should be encouraged. Good contractors are busy and should have people (and jobs) waiting to bid for their services. However, be wary of any contractor who doesn’t show up for a scheduled appointment. If the contractor has a good reason for missing one appointment, okay. But if she misses a second one, especially for the same or a similar reason, consider hiring someone else. If you put up with unprofessional behavior from the start, you’re only asking for continued troubles.
Contracting a Professional
You may find yourself having to contract a professional (or contractor) for all or part of the kitchen remodeling. Hiring someone may seem like a daunting task — especially if you’ve never hired anyone before — but in the following sections, I give you some pointers to help you find an experienced and legitimate contractor.
Also, if you need to call a pro to fix a mistake you’ve made, be ready to pay for it! Mistakes often mean removing work or even demolishing back to square one (although hopefully not). Besides the added price of the additional new materials, you’ll have to pay labor costs for both the removal of the old and installation of the new.
Putting out an APB
So, where do you start? Word-of-mouth recommendations and referrals are good places to begin. If a neighbor, friend, or relative hired a pro and they were pleased with the results, you should feel confident in at least talking with that contractor. Another good resource is your local home center — look into the contractors who subcontract for the store-offered installation services. You can also check with your bank when you’re looking into financing. Bank officers shouldn’t recommend any one contractor, but they usually can provide you with a list of names. Also, many contractors place ads in the newspaper, but be sure to ask for and check their references.
Interviewing the prospects
After you’ve narrowed the field, you need to ask your candidates some hard questions. Don’t be afraid to really push them (in a civilized way!) for the answers to your questions. Remember the old adage, “There’s no such thing as a dumb question.” Well, that statement really holds true here. So, what questions should you ask? Here’s a list to get you started:
How long have you been in the business? Look for a contractor who has been around for at least five years. These folks should have an established business history, plus they’ve weathered both the good and the bad economic times. That says a lot in today’s tough remodeling climate.
How many kitchen-remodeling jobs have you done in the last year? Just because a person is a remodeling contractor doesn’t mean she’s experienced in remodeling kitchens. Hiring a contractor who’s familiar with kitchen remodeling means he’s more likely to be up on current trends, designs, colors, and so on.
Do you get a lot of repeat business or referral clients? Good contractors often get a sizeable amount of their work from past clients. Speaking of past clients, ask whether you can have a list of names of some of their past clients. If the contractor hesitates or the “list” has only one or two names, be a bit wary. A reputable contractor should offer at least a half dozen or so names to choose from.
Can I visit one of your current job sites? This provides you with a first-hand look at how they operate. You’ll see things, such as how neat they are and how much space they take up versus what you think they actually need. Keep in mind, however, that no two jobsites are the same as you come to your conclusions.
Are you a member of a professional organization or association? Contractors who are members of reputable associations and professional organizations usually do a good job. After all, none of the big-name associations want their reputation damaged by fly-by-night operations.
The National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) and the National Association of the Remodeling Industry (NARI) are two of the largest professional associations for the home construction and remodeling industries. Both have Web sites (and www.nari.org) and have local or regional offices where you can find help in your contractor search.
How long do you think the job will take? You may not get a firm answer, but the contractor should be able to provide a reasonable estimate. If the time frame seems too short, check with a past client or two on the quality of work. Did they work so fast that quality suffered? On the other hand, if the estimate seems too long you may want to find out what their daily schedule is like. Find out what time they start in the morning and finish up in the afternoon. Late starts and early quitting times will extend the end-date of the project, which inconveniences you for a longer period. Find out whether they work weekends and, if so, whether it costs you more money. If you want the job done more quickly and want them to work six days a week rather than five, you should be ready to pay more for hourly labor.
Do you carry worker’s compensation and liability insurance? I can’t stress enough how important it is that you ask this question and receive a “Yes” answer. If they answer “Yes,” then ask for copies of both insurance policies to verify coverage. If the answer is “No,” the interview should be over. If they don’t have insurance and you hire them, they might get injured on the job, and guess who pays? You! Plus, you could end up in a courtroom battling over who’s going to pay for the lost wages of the contractor injured on your property. Very simply put, if the contractor answers “No” to this question, you need to say “Good-bye” to the contractor.
Now that you know what to ask the contractors to find out about their history and work, it’s time to start getting the numbers pulled together. The next section discusses costs for the projects and gives you some more specific questions to ask the potential contractors.
Getting three bids
Just as most people shop around for the best price on big-ticket items and even everyday stuff, so you also should shop around for your remodeling project’s overall price. Get three bids on the project. Why three? Three bids help you identify potential problems, as well as get a good feel for what you’re in for over the next several weeks, maybe months.
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Be sure that all three contractors work from the same materials and labor list. You want to compare apples to apples on the three bids. If you’re only able to get two bids, spend some extra time examining and comparing them. Make sure that both bids cover the same work and materials. If you find some large or interesting differences, don’t be afraid to question the contractors on how they came up with their estimate. They may have a different, yet legitimate way of doing something. Or, they could be completely off base. Either way, getting your questions answered will help you decide which contractor you want to hire.
Just ask my friend, Steve. After two days of accumulating debris from his home’s new room addition and the contractor not throwing anything away, Steve asked when the garbage was going to be picked up. The contractor’s response was that because that wasn’t spelled out in the contract, the homeowner was responsible for getting a dumpster to the jobsite and that the homeowner was to do the cleanup at the end of each day. This sounds ridiculous, but it’s true. Luckily for my friend, the dispute was resolved without bloodshed! All kidding aside, Steve and the contractor discussed the situation responsibly and came to an agreement that worked for both parties. Needless to say, that new agreement was put down in writing, as were any subsequent changes.
Avoid laboring over labor costs
Even if you’re hiring a contractor, you can take on a few parts of a kitchen-remodeling project to reduce labor costs and also free up the contractor to take care of another job she’s working on. And, actually, that’s a good thing: If the contractor has to split her time between jobs less often, she’ll complete both jobs more efficiently.
Demolition can be very manageable and a real cost-saver, so many homeowners love to tackle it. Besides, who doesn’t like to destroy things? Just make sure that you have all of the necessary tools and equipment for both removing and hauling the debris to the dumpster. (See Chapter 5 for a list of the most common demolition tools and equipment.) And, check with your contractor about what and how something is to be demolished so that you do it correctly. Don’t forget the safety gear, either. Spending an afternoon at the doctor’s office after getting a wood shaving in your eye because you didn’t have any safety glasses handy is one way to defeat the money-saving aspect of doing your own demolition.
Painting is another part of the project that you can handle and that really does save the contractor time (and you money). Most painting projects need multiple coats of paint — priming and then applying the finish coat(s). And because most paints can be recoated within a couple of hours, you can speed up this part of the project because you’re at the house and not traveling between jobs, like your contractor.
Installing the cabinets is another job that really is manageable. If you have a basic knowledge of carpentry and average to advanced DIY skills, installing cabinets shouldn’t be a problem. Check out Chapter 9, too, for step-by-step instructions to help you through this part of the project.
You may be able to assist your contractor on some parts of the job, for example helping haul materials in and out or even holding up cabinets while they’re being installed or pulling new electrical cable through open walls. They may even knock off a few bucks from the total project price for your time and effort. But if you get in the way or become a nuisance, be prepared to be “fired” from your assistant’s job! No contractor wants to be slowed down by someone who means well but doesn’t know what he’s doing.
Getting It All on Paper: Drawing Up a Contract
If you’re hiring professionals, you need to be sure that everyone is thinking, talking, and working on the same page; in other words, you need a signed contract. In fact, you should have a contract anytime you pay someone to do work on your home. I’m sure you’ve heard the term but do you really know what a contract is and how it helps you?
A contract is a legally binding document between you and another individual, in this case a contractor or subcontractor. It stipulates the work to be done, the amount to be paid for the work, and the various responsibilities that both you and the contractor must fulfill. You need a contract to ensure that all parties involved understand their obligations and to make sure that nothing is left open to an individual’s interpretation. A contract gets everyone on the same page — both literally and figuratively. As the homeowner, the contract protects you against a dishonest contractor or one who does inferior work. A contract is also the best tool for settling disputes if things should happen to end up in court.
Anyone can draw up a contract for a remodeling project. You don’t need to pay a lawyer. Standard blank contracts are available at office supply stores. You can use the actual form from the store or you can use it as a guide and revise it to meet your needs and desires. Be a bit wary if the contractor has a preprinted contract for you to sign. Unless you read every word or have it examined by a lawyer, you could be opening yourself up for current or possible future liability. Draw up the contract yourself.
Who’s involved: Your listing of who’s who on the project. Make sure you have the contractor’s name as well as the name of his business listed. You also need his address and telephone number(s).
If you’re hiring a general contractor, then you’ll only need one contract with her. It will be her responsibility to work out the work and payment schedule with the subcontractors. If, however, you’re the general contractor, then you need to draw up contracts with each of the subcontractors that you hire.
What’s involved: This lists exactly what the contractor will and will not do. (Remember my example in the “Getting three bids” section of miscommunication over who would clean up every day!) This section should also answer the following questions:
• Is the plumber supplying the new kitchen fixtures or are you?
• Is the electrician supplying the light fixtures?
• Who’s calling for or ordering the inspections?
• Who’s ordering the appliances, cabinets, and so on?
• What brand(s) are acceptable?
• What brand(s) are not acceptable?
Cost: Be specific as you detail what the project will cost to complete. Outline the payment schedule, including the initial payment date, the second payment date, and the final payment date.
Timetable: Give the project firm starting and ending dates. These can be adjusted as needed, for example if material delivery is delayed. Just remember to get any changes in writing and have both parties sign off on the change.
Material and equipment: Get a detailed list of all the materials, equipment, fixtures, and so on that are purchased. List the quantity, size, color, model, and brand for each item. This could be a long section, but these details will reduce the chance of confusion or error.
Change orders: Changes are a part of every remodeling project — DIY or pro. If you change your mind about a product, design, or anything else, get the change written down on paper. If the contractor runs into an unforeseen problem — and believe me it happens — get the necessary change/repair in writing. Make sure that the contractor is not charging for “unforeseen problems” that should have been included. Get them to explain why something changed and ask why they didn’t anticipate this if you think it’s something that they should have known or anticipated. Describe all changes in detail, including materials, anticipated new completion date of the project, and additional charges. Make sure both you and the contractor sign all change orders.
Warranties: A reputable contractor will usually guarantee workmanship and materials for one year. Some materials and products will carry a longer manufacturer’s warranty; so hang onto the paperwork as documentation in the event of future problems.
Arbitration clause: Even with a contract, disputes can arise. You can avoid having to go to court, however, if you include a binding arbitration clause. If you do find yourself needing arbitration, contact the American Arbitration Association (AAA), which is a non-profit organization that helps people organize arbitration. The AAA Web site (www.adr.org) has downloadable forms and links and information about regional offices and on-line filing.
Avoid paying twice: A common and unfortunate problem when dealing with general contractors is that the money sometimes gets from the homeowner to the general contractor, but not to the subcontractors. When this happens, the subs can put a mechanic’s lien against your property! Avoid this by including a clause stating that the final payment won’t be made until you receive a lien-release form from the general contractor, all subcontractors, and each supplier. See the sidebar “Staying off the hook — Get a lien release form” for more details.
Dealing with the Day-to-Day during Construction
After you’ve hired your contractor, get used to having a lot of strangers in your home. They’ll be there for the better part of days, weeks, or maybe months, so do your best to get along and to stay out of their way. Not that you can’t ask questions, but just don’t become a nuisance.
Most contractors like to get started early in the morning, usually before 7:30 a.m. They have tools and materials to get in order for the day’s work and they don’t like to have to spend their regular work time hours doing it. You may need to adjust your morning schedule, too. Most folks aren’t very comfortable getting ready for work when the contractors are around. But, just keep telling yourself what a beautiful kitchen you’ll have when the project is finished.
If you feel comfortable with your contractor, you could give him a key to your house. This is a personal decision, however, and should not be taken lightly. I’ve done this a few times when I’ve had work done on my home and have had no problems. But, I did it only after getting to know the person and making sure that they were insured and bonded against loss.
Also, if you don’t want contractors to be at the house on a specific day or days, let them know well in advance. My wife and I had guests coming to town for a long weekend and we asked the fellows that were doing a landscape project not work while our guests were visiting. The contractor said it was no problem because we told him about the change three weeks in advance so that he could rearrange his work schedule. He was very grateful because he was able to schedule a smaller job in over those days.
Nearing the Finish Line
Just as people are different, so are their expectation and satisfaction levels. So, as your project nears completion, you need to begin the process of examining the work of the contractors. You’ll find it much easier to get things corrected, repaired, or, if necessary, changed while the contractors are still on-site on a regular basis. And most contractors want to correct things during this time, too. They hate returning to a job, especially to fix minor problems. These return trips or callbacks cost the contractor money because they’re usually dealing with things that weren’t part of the original contract and price, but they are things that need to be corrected.
Developing a punch list
While you’re examining the work on the project, you need to write down the things you have questions about and the items that you feel need to be repaired or changed. The list of corrections is called a punch list. After you and the contractor agree on it, you’ll both use the punch list to verify and ensure that the agreed upon tasks are completed. Don’t feel like you’re causing the contractor undue pressure or problems, either. A good contractor is very familiar with a punch list and wants to take care of the items as soon as possible. Remember, they won’t get their final payment until everything’s the way you want it, right?
Final sign-offs
Everyone involved is happy to participate in the final sign-off. Think of it in the same way as you thought of making the final walk-through in your house, just before you closed on the sale. This really is the last chance to bring problems to everyone’s attention; however, the punch list should have taken care of most of it.
Everyone should get signed copies of the fulfilled contract. Both you and the contractor will want these for your records. Keep all other documents (lien-release forms, receipts, inspection reports, architectural drawings, and so on) with the contract, in the event of future problems or disputes.
Staying off the hook! Get a lien-release form
If a subcontractor or material supplier doesn’t receive payment from the general contractor for her services or materials, she can bring a legal claim against your property by filing a mechanic’s lien. If you have a lien against your home, you can’t sell your house and you probably won’t be able to secure financing until the lien is satisfied or the dispute is resolved.
The best way to avoid this problem is by adding a lien-release clause to the contract, mentioned in the section “Getting It All on Paper: Drawing Up a Contract”. Whenever payment is made for services or materials, have the contractor or supplier sign a lien-release form. Notarizing the signed form is best, but if you can’t get it notarized, just be sure to get the signatures of all parties involved.
Don’t be surprised if you end up with quite a few forms for your records. Even a small payment for services or materials should have a lien-release form, which could mean dozens of receipts. Why should you get a lien-release form for every transaction? I’ve seen mechanic’s liens for $100 and even as little as $50 filed against a homeowner. Both were the fault of the general contractor but the homeowner had to deal with the hassle and eventually pay for the materials a second time.
If you are served with a lien, don’t go nuts. Most contractors don’t want to file a lien, so their claim may be legitimate. Check your receipts to see whether you paid or not. Payments do slip through the cracks, so you may just need to pay up and then everyone should be happy.