seafood.
HARISSA SQUID AND CHICKPEAS.
HARISSA IS ONE OF MY FAVOURITES FOR ADDING A LITTLE FIRE AND FLAMBOYANCY TO THE SIMPLEST DISHES, AND I LOVE THAT IT ADDS THAT LITTLE EXTRA NORTH-AFRICAN SOMETHING SPECIAL. I ALWAYS THINK THAT IT TASTES JUST A LITTLE LIKE FARAWAY PLACES SMELL. ADD TO THAT THE FACT THAT THIS CAN BE ON THE TABLE IN 15 MINUTES AND YOU’LL FIND IT’S FAIRLY SMASHING.
SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 5 minutes | COOKING TIME 10 minutes
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- 1 Tbsp olive oil
- 1 × 410 g can peeled, chopped tomatoes
- 1 tsp grated fresh ginger
- 1 clove garlic, crushed
- 1⁄2 tsp dried chilli flakes
- 1⁄2 tsp sugar
- 1–2 tsp harissa paste
- 400 g fresh squid or calamari
- 1 × 410 g can chickpeas, drained
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- lemon juice, to taste
- fresh coriander leaves, for garnishing
WHAT TO DO
- Heat the olive oil in a heavy-based pan and add the tomatoes, ginger, garlic, chilli flakes, sugar and harissa paste. Cook for 1–2 minutes, or until the paste is fragrant.
- Add the squid or calamari to the pan, place the lid on and leave to poach, turning halfway, for 8–10 minutes, or until it is white and cooked through.
- Add the chickpeas and bring the sauce back up to a gentle bubble. Remove from the heat, add salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste. Garnish with fresh coriander leaves and serve immediately, either just as it is or with couscous or fresh crusty bread.
LEMONY HERBY HAKE
with Warm Baby Potato and Pea Salad.
I LOVE USING OUR SUSTAINABLE SOUTH AFRICAN HAKE FOR THIS RECIPE – IT’S A BRILLIANT BLANK CANVAS FOR SO MANY AMAZING FLAVOURS – BUT ANY OTHER SUSTAINABLE FIRM WHITE FISH WILL WORK HERE JUST AS WELL.
SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes | COOKING TIME 20 minutes
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- BABY POTATO AND PEA SALAD
- 400 g baby potatoes
- 1 cup frozen peas, thawed
- small handful fresh mint leaves, roughly torn
- 1 Tbsp olive oil
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
FISH
- 1 Tbsp olive oil
- 1 Tbsp butter
- 4 × 150–200 g hake fillets, skin on and scored (or any firm white sustainable fish)
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
LEMONY HERBY DRESSING
- 2 Tbsp lemon juice
- 3 Tbsp olive oil
- 1 tsp Dijon mustard
- 1 clove garlic, crushed
- 1 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley
- 1 Tbsp chopped fresh basil
- 1 tsp lemon zest
WHAT TO DO
- First cook the baby potatoes for the salad. Boil them in a large saucepan of salted water until cooked through and they can be easily pierced with a knife, about 15 minutes.
- Meanwhile, heat the olive oil and butter for the fish in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Season the fish lightly with salt and pepper. When the butter starts to foam, add the fish and cook skin-side down for 3–4 minutes, or until the skin is crispy. Turn over and cook for 1–2 minutes on the other side, or until the fish is just cooked. Remove from the pan and set aside to rest.
- Then make the lemony herby dressing by combining all the ingredients together in a clean old jam jar, and shake well until the mixture becomes ‘creamy’ and emulsifies. Check for seasoning and set aside. Pour half the dressing over the fish as it rests and while it is still warm; this way it will absorb more of the flavours.
- Drain the potatoes and mix together with the remaining salad ingredients. Serve immediately with the fish and the remaining dressing on the side.
Notes: For a lighter version, serve this with a simple green salad on the side, reserving some of the dressing to toss through before serving, and top with a few Parmesan shavings.
You could also use 1 cup quinoa or couscous and cook according to packet instructions, then stir through the peas and mint along with a good drizzle of olive oil and lemon juice.
MUSSELS IN THAI RED CURRY.
DON’T YOU LOVE THE CLACKETY-CLACK THE CHAOTIC LITTLE TUMBLE MUSSELS DO AS YOU SEND THEM INTO THE POT? HERE THEY COME BACK TO YOU SWIMMING IN AN AROMATIC THAI SAUCE THAT’S REALLY RATHER WONDERFUL.
SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 5–10 minutes | COOKING TIME 15 minutes
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- 1 Tbsp olive oil
- 1 tsp grated fresh ginger
- 1–2 Tbsp Thai red curry paste
- 1 × 400 ml can coconut milk
- 1 cup good-quality fish or chicken stock
- 2 tsp fish sauce
- 1 tsp sugar
- about 1 kg mussels in their shells, cleaned and de-bearded
- handful fresh basil (or coriander), roughly chopped, for serving
- lime wedges, for serving
- fresh crusty bread, for serving
WHAT TO DO
- Heat the olive oil in a medium-sized saucepan on medium-high heat, and cook the ginger and red curry paste until fragrant, 2–3 minutes. Add the coconut milk, stock, fish sauce and sugar and leave to simmer for about 5 minutes.
- Just before serving, add the mussels to the saucepan, place the lid on and leave to cook for 3–4 minutes, or until the mussels have opened. Discard any that do not open at this stage.
- Serve immediately in warmed serving bowls with a sprinkling of fresh basil or coriander and a squeeze of lime juice, as well as fresh crusty bread on the side. A lso place empty bowls on the table for discarding the mussel shells.
QUICK FISHCAKES
with Summery Tomato and Avo Salsa.
THESE FISHCAKES ARE ABSOLUTELY ONE OF OUR FAVOURITE SUPPERTIME TREATS, ENDLESSLY SIMPLE AND HUMBLE BUT SO BEGUILING.
SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes | COOKING TIME 30 minutes
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- 400 g firm white fish fillets, without skin
- 2 tsp olive oil
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 3 medium-sized sweet potatoes
- 1 cup frozen peas
- 100 g feta cheese
- 1 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley
- 1 Tbsp chopped fresh mint or basil (optional)
- 1 Tbsp lemon juice
- 2 tsp lemon zest
- 1 egg, lightly beaten
SUMMERY TOMATO AND AVO SALSA
- 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
- 1 avocado, de-pipped, peeled and roughly chopped
- 2 Tbsp capers (optional)
- 1 Tbsp each of chopped fresh parsley and basil
- 1⁄2 fresh chilli, deseeded and finely chopped (optional)
- 1 Tbsp olive oil
- 1 Tbsp lemon juice
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 100 g feta cheese, crumbled
WHAT TO DO
- Preheat the oven to 200 °C.
- Place the fish on the shiny side of a large sheet of tinfoil, drizzle with the olive oil and sprinkle with a pinch each of salt and pepper. Wrap up tightly and bake for 10–12 minutes, or until just cooked through, then remove and set aside to cool.
- Meanwhile, halve and boil the sweet potatoes with their skins on for 15 minutes, or until soft, adding in the peas for the last 2 minutes of cooking time. Drain the sweet potatoes and peas, allow the potatoes to cool and steam for a few minutes and then remove the skins. Season with salt and pepper and mash roughly.
- Flake the fish into a bowl, then add the mashed sweet potato and peas, feta, herbs, lemon juice, lemon zest and egg. Season with salt and black pepper and mix until combined.
- Shape the mixture into 10–12 golf ball-sized patties, just gently flattened, and lay them in a lightly greased baking dish. Refrigerate for about 15 minutes to firm up a little, or until you are ready to cook.
- In a preheated 220 °C oven, bake for 8–10 minutes, or until golden. If you’d like a crisper finish, then turn on the grill for the last 2–3 minutes.
- Mix all the salsa ingredients together in a small bowl, sprinkling the feta on top, and serve on the side with the fishcakes.
PRAWN BUNNY CHOWS.
BUNNY CHOWS ARE AN ADORED STREET FOOD IN SOUTH AFRICA. A FRAGRANT SILKY CURRY IS SERVED IN HOLLOWED-OUT BREAD LOAVES FOR EASY TRANSPORTING, ALTHOUGH HERE I’VE SUGGESTED USING MINI PITA BREADS INSTEAD.
SERVES 8 as snacks or 4 as a main meal | PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes | COOKING TIME 30 minutes
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- 1 Tbsp olive oil
- 1 Tbsp butter
- 1⁄2 tsp each of turmeric, medium-hot curry powder, ground coriander, ground cumin and dried chilli flakes
- 2 tsp freshly grated ginger
- 1 clove garlic, chopped
- 1 × 410 g can peeled, chopped tomatoes
- 1 tsp sugar
- 1⁄3 cup natural yoghurt
- 1⁄3 cup coconut milk
- 3 Tbsp ground almonds (not vital if you don’t have)
- 500–600 g prawns, deveined and shelled
- 8–10 ready-made mini pita breads or mini bread loaves (topped and hollowed out to make space for the filling)
- salt and freshly ground black pepper handful chopped fresh coriander, for serving
- lemon wedges, for serving
WHAT TO DO
- Add the olive oil and butter to a medium-sized saucepan over medium-high heat. When the butter starts to foam, add the spices and fresh ginger and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the garlic and cook for another minute.
- Add the canned tomatoes and sugar, turn the heat down to medium-low, and leave to simmer for about 15 minutes.
- Add the yoghurt, coconut milk and ground almonds and stir to combine. Turn the heat back up to medium-high and add the prawns. Poach for 3–4 minutes in the curry sauce, or until cooked through and pink. Season to taste.
- Spoon into the warmed pita breads or bunny chow bread loaves, and serve immediately with a scattering of fresh coriander and a squeeze of lemon juice.
Notes: This is a great ‘make ahead’ meal as you can cook the curry sauce up to a day in advance and then add the prawns shortly before serving.
Serve this with a cucumber, mint and mango salsa. Mix together 1⁄2 finely diced cucumber, 1 peeled and cubed fresh mango, 1⁄2 peeled and cubed fresh pineapple, 2 Tbsp chopped fresh mint, 1 deseeded and finely chopped fresh green chilli, 1 tsp grated fresh ginger, 1 Tbsp lime juice, 1 Tbsp honey and salt and freshly ground black pepper.
GRILLED TROUT
with Rainbow Salad and Asian Dressing.
THIS IS FRESH-FACED AND FABULOUS AND EVERYTHING YOU WANT FOR SUMMER FEASTING. IT’S ALSO AS PRETTY AS A PICTURE AND REMINDS ME OF SUMMERY, BREEZY DAYS IN THAILAND AND ALL THEIR CLEAN, LEAN, FRESH FOOD.
SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes | COOKING TIME 10 minutes
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- 4 × 150 g trout fillets
- 2 Tbsp honey
- 4 Tbsp soy sauce
- 1 Tbsp grated fresh ginger
- juice of 1 lime
RAINBOW SALAD
- 1⁄2 small red or white cabbage
- 1 small bulb fennel, stalks removed
- 2 medium-sized carrots
- 2 apples or pears, cored
- 1 red chilli, deseeded and sliced
- handful fresh sprouts
- handful salted peanuts
- 1 Tbsp each of chopped fresh mint and basil (or coriander)
ASIAN DRESSING
- 2 Tbsp grated fresh ginger
- about 1⁄2 cup lime juice, or more to taste)
- 6 Tbsp honey
- 3 Tbsp soy sauce
- 2 Tbsp sesame oil
- 1–2 tsp fish sauce
WHAT TO DO
- Preheat the oven to 220 °C.
- Place the fish fillets in an ovenproof dish and drizzle over the honey, soy sauce and ginger. Cook for 8–10 minutes or until the fish is just cooked through and the flesh flakes easily with a fork.
- While the fish cooks, prepare the salad ingredients by shredding in a food processor, then adding to a large serving bowl.
- Mix all the dressing ingredients together and adjust according to taste. Pour the dressing over the salad and toss gently, making sure the salad ingredients are well coated.
- Remove the fish from the oven and squeeze over the lime juice just before serving.
FISH BURGERS
with a Quick Wasabi Mayonnaise.
THE FLAVOURS IN THESE FISH BURGERS REMIND ME SO MUCH OF WHAT I LOVE ABOUT THE COLOURFUL CHAOS OF THE EAST, FULL OF FLAIR AND FEISTY FUN, ALL ROUNDED OFF NICELY WITH THE GOOD AND PROPER SMACK OF THE WASABI MAYO. YUM!
SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes | COOKING TIME 10–15 minutes
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
BURGERS
- 2 Tbsp soy sauce
- 1 tsp grated fresh ginger
- 1 Tbsp honey
- juice of 1 lime, plus extra for serving
- 4 fish fillets, without skin (about 150 g each, and I prefer trout or salmon)
- olive oil, for frying
- 4 fresh bread rolls, halved
- 1 avocado, de-pipped and thinly sliced
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- fresh basil or coriander leaves, for garnishing
QUICK WASABI MAYONNAISE
- 1 egg
- 1 clove garlic
- 1⁄2 avocado, de-pipped and roughly chopped
- 2 Tbsp lime or lemon juice
- pinch each of salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 tsp wasabi paste
- 3⁄4 cup cooking oil (not olive oil)
WHAT TO DO
- Mix together the soy sauce, ginger, honey and lime juice to make a basting for the fish fillets. Spread over the fillets on both sides, then fry quickly in a hot pan with a little olive oil. Cook for 4–6 minutes, or until just cooked through and golden, turning halfway.
- For the mayonnaise, add all the ingredients, except the oil, to a blender. Switch it on to a low speed and then slowly drizzle in the oil in a constant stream. Continue blending until all the oil is incorporated and the mixture thickens to the usual consistency of mayonnaise. Set aside.
- To assemble the burgers: Remove the fish fillets from the pan once cooked and place onto the pre-cut bread rolls. Top with a dollop of the wasabi mayonnaise, a sliver or two of avocado, season with a little salt and pepper, and garnish with a small handful of fresh basil or coriander. Drizzle with an extra squeeze of lime juice and serve immediately.
Notes: If not using avocado in the mayonnaise, use 1 cup of oil.
The mayo makes 1 cup and keeps in the fridge for up to two weeks.
FIRESIDE FISH CURRY.
WHENEVER I THINK OF THIS RECIPE I THINK IMMEDIATELY OF THE NIGHT MARKET STALLS IN ZANZIBAR’S STONETOWN, BRIMMING WITH FAMILIES PREPARING FOOD TOGETHER TO SHARE AND SELL. IT’S A WONDERFULLY CHAOTIC ASSAULT ON THE SENSES: THE SMELL OF THE HARBOUR, THE ALL-ENCOMPASSING AROMA OF THE SPICES, THE DELICIOUSNESS OF THE SEAFOOD, THE CACOPHONY OF VENDORS AND SHOPPERS AND EATERS – IT MAKES FOR A VERY HAPPY PICTURE IN MY MIND’S EYE. IT WAS ALSO THE FIRST PLACE THAT I TASTED A KNOCK-YOUR-SOCKS-OFF SEAFOOD CURRY, AND FOR THAT I WILL ALWAYS BE VERY GRATEFUL.
SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes | COOKING TIME 25–30 minutes
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- 1–2 Tbsp olive oil
- 1 medium-sized onion, chopped
- 1 tsp ground cumin
- 1 tsp dried coriander
- 1 tsp dried chilli flakes
- 1–2 tsp medium curry powder
- 1⁄2 cinnamon stick
- 3–4 cardamom pods, bruised to release the seeds
- 2 cloves garlic, chopped
- 1 thumb-sized piece of fresh ginger, peeled and roughly grated
- 1 × 410 g can peeled, chopped tomatoes
- 1 × 400 ml can coconut milk
- 2 tsp sugar, or to taste
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 4 × 125 g fresh fish fillets, roughly chopped
- 2 Tbsp chopped fresh coriander, for garnishing
WHAT TO DO
- Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion, stir for about 2 minutes and then add the spices, garlic and ginger.
- Stir for a further minute and then add the tomatoes. Reduce the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes, stirring often.
- Add the coconut milk and sugar to the tomato mixture and check the seasoning. Add the fish, put on the lid and simmer for 5 minutes, or until the fish is just cooked through and can be flaked apart with a fork.
- Check the seasoning again before serving with fresh naan breads or basmati rice, garnished with the fresh coriander.
HONEY AND SOY HAKE EN PAPILLOTE
with Pak Choi and Coconut Jasmine Rice.
THERE’S SOMETHING SPECIAL ABOUT TEARING OPEN A STEAMING PAPILLOTE BAG AND BEING ENVELOPED IN BEAUTIFUL, FRESH, CITRUSY ASIAN FLAVOURS (AND PS, PAPILLOTE IS JUST ANOTHER NAME FOR A PRETTY LITTLE PACKAGE MADE FROM BAKING PAPER THAT ALLOWS THE FISH TO STEAM UNTIL PERFECTLY FLAKY).
SERVES 4 | PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes | COOKING TIME 20 minutes
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
COCONUT JASMINE RICE
- 1 cup jasmine rice
- 1 cup coconut milk
- 1 cup boiling water
HAKE EN PAPILLOTE
- 800 g firm white sustainable fish fillets
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 2 Tbsp soy sauce
- 2 Tbsp runny honey
- 2 tsp grated fresh ginger
- 2 Tbsp lime juice
- 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped handful fresh coriander, roughly chopped, for serving
PAK CHOI
- 1 Tbsp olive oil
- 2 heads baby pak choi, roughly sliced lengthways
- 1–2 tsp sesame oil
- 1 Tbsp soy sauce
WHAT TO DO
- Preheat the oven to 200 °C.
- Cook the jasmine rice in a mixture of the coconut milk and water, approximately 20 minutes. Keep an eye on it and add a little more water if you need to. Remove and set aside, toss with a fork and leave to steam gently.
- Pat the hake fillets dry with kitchen paper, place onto a sheet of open baking paper (large enough to fully wrap the fish) and then season with salt and pepper. Coat with the remaining ingredients, except the fresh coriander.
- To fold en papilotte do as follows: Place the two longer edges of the paper together, make a 1 cm fold, and then fold again until you have reached the fish fillet. Then repeat with the two remaining edges. Place in the oven and cook for 10–12 minutes, or until the flesh flakes apart easily with a knife.
- Just before serving, heat the olive oil in a wok or pan and fry the pak choi along with the sesame oil and soy sauce.
- Serve the fish and greens over the steaming jasmine rice and sprinkle with fresh coriander. Dress with extra lime juice and soy sauce, if necessary.
WHOLE SNOEK
with Apricot, Chilli and Ginger Glaze.
SNOEK IS A FAVOURITE FISH FOR THE BRAAI (BBQ) IN SOUTH AFRICA. IT’S SIMILAR TO MACKEREL AND IS SIMPLE, HONEST, COMFORT FOOD AT ITS BEST. THERE IS ALMOST ALWAYS APRICOT JAM INVOLVED SOMEHOW, AND HERE I’VE ADDED IN A KICK OF CHILLI AND A LITTLE STING OF GINGER TO JAZZ THINGS UP A BIT. I ORIGINALLY WROTE THIS RECIPE FOR MY TV SERIES SARAH GRAHAM COOKS CAPE TOWN WHEN WE COOKED THIS UP THE WEST COAST IN THE BEAUTIFUL SEASIDE TOWN OF SALDANHA.
SERVES 6 | PREPARATION TIME 10–15 minutes | COOKING TIME 15–20 minutes
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
-
1 fresh snoek, cleaned and prepared in ‘butterfly’ style
- 2 cloves garlic, grated
- 2–3 Tbsp olive oil, plus extra for greasing
- 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
- 2 heaped tsp grated fresh ginger
- 3 Tbsp apricot jam
- 1 Tbsp chutney
- 2 tsp soy sauce
- 3–4 sprigs fresh thyme
- juice of 2 lemons
- zest of 1 lemon
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 2 Tbsp chopped fresh dill or parsley, for serving
WHAT TO DO
- Prepare your braai or barbecue as you usually would for cooking, with low and gentle coals. Meanwhile, dry the snoek by blotting it very well with kitchen paper.
- Mix together all of the remaining ingredients, which are for basting the snoek. Grease the skin side of the snoek with olive oil, and baste the inside with half of the glaze. Lay the snoek flat and skin-side down on the grid.
- Braai the snoek for 10–15 minutes skin-side down, re-basting with the remaining glaze as you need to, and then about 5 minutes flesh-side down, with a further 2 minutes or so flesh-side up again, and at this point use up the remaining glaze. There is no need to baste the skin side. The fish is cooked when the flesh can be easily flaked apart with a fork.
- Remove from the heat, leave to rest for a few minutes and then serve while still hot.
PRAWN RICE PAPER ROLLS.
THESE ARE GLORIOUSLY FRESH AND SUMMERY (ALMOST SMUGLY SO), AND FULL OF COLOUR AND CHARACTER – MY FAVOURITE FOOD FOR FEEDING FAMILY AND FRIENDS.
MAKES about 12 rolls | PREPARATION TIME 25 minutes | COOKING TIME 5 minutes
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- 2 Tbsp olive oil
- 250–300 g prawns, deveined and shelled
- 1 cup mange tout or sugar snap peas, thinly sliced lengthways
- 1 red bell pepper, deseeded and thinly sliced lengthways
- small handful fresh bean sprouts
- 2 Tbsp roughly chopped fresh coriander (or basil)
- 1⁄4 cup roughly chopped roasted and salted peanuts (you could also use cashews)
- 10 sheets rice paper
PEANUT SESAME SAUCE
- 2 Tbsp sesame oil
- 1 large clove garlic, finely chopped
- 1 small chilli, deseeded and finely chopped (optional)
- 3 Tbsp soy sauce
- 6 Tbsp sweet chilli sauce
- 2 Tbsp smooth peanut butter
- juice of 2 limes
WHAT TO DO
- Heat the olive oil in a wok or large frying pan and fry the prawns until cooked through and just pink on all sides, about 5 minutes. Add the mange tout or sugar snap peas and red pepper for the last minute of cooking. Tip into a mixing bowl along with the sprouts, coriander or basil and nuts.
- Combine all the sauce ingredients in a small bowl and pour a third over the prawns and vegetables. Toss gently to coat and allow to cool for a few minutes.
- Ready a large bowl of warm water and have the rice-paper sheets laid out in front of you. One at a time, float the rice-paper sheets in the water for 30–45 seconds and remove just as they start to collapse and sink, but are still slightly ‘al dente’ as they will continue to soften after being removed from the water. (They look like sinking silk scarves when they reach this stage.) Lay them on a clean plate in front of you. Do not stack them, as they will stick together like glue.
- To assemble the rolls, place about 2 Tbsp prawn mixture down the centre of each rice-paper sheet, then fold in the shorter edges and roll to close. Serve chilled or at room temperature with the extra sauce on the side.
Notes: These are equally delicious using chicken fillets/breast slivers or even firm white fish fillets.
If you don’t have the time or can’t find rice paper, cook rice noodles according to the packet instructions and serve as a meal for 2–3 people.