Popovers

Makes: 12

Time: About 45 minutes

Popovers are a one-bowl recipe that comes together in no time—you already have the ingredients—so you can make them as easily for a weekday meal as you can for a dinner party. These eggy rolls are the perfect savory accompaniment to anything from scrambled eggs to Thanksgiving dinner.

• 1 tablespoon melted butter or neutral oil (like grapeseed or corn), plus more for greasing
• 2 eggs
• 1 cup milk
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1 cup flour

1. Heat the oven to 425°F. Grease a 12-cup muffin tin or a popover tin and put it in the oven while you make the batter.

2. Beat together the eggs, milk, butter, sugar, and salt in a large bowl. Beat in the flour a little bit at a time; the mixture should be smooth.

3. Fill the muffin tins at least halfway (if your tin is large, this might make fewer than 12 popovers). Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350°F and continue baking for 15 minutes or until the popovers are puffed and browned (do not check the popovers until they have baked for a total of 30 minutes). Immediately remove from the pan and serve hot, if possible, with jam and butter.

GRUYÈRE-CHIVE POPOVERS Gruyère lends an irresistible nuttiness to the light rolls: Stir ¾ cup grated Gruyère cheese and 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives into the flour mixture.

BLACK PEPPER AND PARMESAN POPOVERS Stir 1 teaspoon black pepper and ⅓ cup grated Parmesan cheese into the dry ingredients.

CORN POPOVERS Add a touch of sweetness and a bit of grit to the classic recipe: Mix ⅓ cup fresh corn kernels, lightly mashed, into the wet ingredients. Substitute cornmeal for ¼ cup of the all-purpose flour.

LEMON THYME POPOVERS Use citrus to brighten the flavor: Stir 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme leaves into the flour mixture.

EVERYTHING POPOVERS Just like your favorite bagel, but better: Stir 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, 1 tablespoon caraway seeds, and 1 tablespoon poppy seeds into the flour mixture. Fold 1 tablespoon minced garlic and ¼ cup minced sautéed onions into the batter.

BACON-JALAPEñO POPOVERS Serve alongside a bowl of chili: Fold ¼ cup chopped crispy cooked bacon and ¼ cup diced jalapeños into the batter.