Makes: 4 to 6 servings
Time: About 30 minutes
These are more involved than other pancakes—you’ll need three bowls, and to whip the egg whites separately—but for that extra effort you get pancakes that are lightly rich with almost custardy centers. They’re great with Macerated Fruit, but, really, don’t need help. A good recipe for Mother’s Day or breakfast in bed.
1. Heat a griddle or large skillet over low heat while you make the batter.
2. Beat the egg whites until fairly stiff but not dry. In a separate bowl, beat the ricotta, egg yolks, milk, and lemon juice together.
3. Stir the flour, zest, sugar, baking soda, and salt into the ricotta mixture, blending well but not beating. Gently fold in the beaten egg whites; they should remain somewhat distinct in the batter but still be evenly combined.
4. Raise the heat to medium-low. When a couple drops of water skid across the surface of the pan before evaporating, it’s hot enough. Add a pat of butter and/or a drizzle of oil to the griddle or skillet. When the butter foam subsides or the oil shimmers, add the batter and spread it around gently (it won’t spread much on its own) to make whatever size pancakes you like, being careful not to deflate the batter. Cook until lightly browned on the bottom, 3 to 5 minutes, then turn and cook until the second side is brown, another 2 or 3 minutes. Serve each batch right away as you cook the next one; the longer these pancakes sit, the more they deflate.
COTTAGE CHEESE AND SOUR CREAM PANCAKES Similarly fluffy, but with the tang of buttermilk pancakes: Substitute ½ cup each of cottage cheese and sour cream for the ricotta; reduce the milk to ⅓ cup. Omit the lemon zest and lemon juice if you like.
RICOTTA AND YOGURT PANCAKES WITH ORANGE Yogurt makes these richer, almost like cheesecake, while orange is slightly more assertive: Substitute ½ cup yogurt for ½ cup of the ricotta and reduce the milk to ⅓ cup. Use orange zest and ¼cup fresh orange juice instead of lemon zest and juice. If you like, add ½ teaspoon cinnamon along with the rest of the dry ingredients.