Buckwheat Pancakes

Makes: 4 to 6 servings

Time: 30 minutes

Nutty, ever so slightly tangy buckwheat makes flavorful pancakes that take just as well to savory additions—like an egg, shredded cheese, or thinly sliced ham—as to Macerated Fruit or maple syrup. Cutting it with some regular flour produces a more tender texture, but for an all-buckwheat (also gluten-free) version, see the variation.

1. Heat a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-low heat while you make the batter.

2. Combine the flours, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs, then add the milk, honey, and melted butter. Stir the egg mixture into the dry ingredients until just combined; a few lumps are fine. Add more milk if needed to thin the batter to your desired consistency.

3. When a couple drops of water skid across the surface of the pan before evaporating, it’s hot enough. Add a bit of butter and oil. As soon as the butter melts, ladle in the batter and cook, undisturbed, for 2 to 4 minutes, until bubbles appear in the centers of the cakes. Use a spatula to peek at the bottoms and flip when they’re browned. Repeat on the other side. Serve immediately or keep warm in a 200°F oven for 15 minutes or so.

100% BUCKWHEAT PANCAKES Use 2 cups buckwheat flour and omit the all-purpose flour. You may need to increase the milk to 1¾ cups.

YEASTED BUCKWHEAT PANCAKES Yeast gives these hearty pancakes some extra lift and ratchets up the nutty, tangy flavor of the buckwheat: Combine the flours and salt with 1 teaspoon instant yeast; omit the baking powder. Add the milk (heat it until lukewarm), honey, and melted butter, then cover with plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature for at least 1 hour or overnight. The batter is ready when it smells distinctly yeasty and has a few bubbles on the surface. Beat the eggs in a separate bowl, then stir them into the batter. Cook for an extra minute or two on each side.

BLINI These small Russian pancakes make great appetizers: Omit the honey. Proceed with the recipe or either variation; drop the batter into a skillet by the tablespoon. These can be eaten at room temperature topped with crème fraîche, caviar or smoked salmon, and a bit of fresh dill.