French Toast

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 20 minutes

The best French toast has a crisp, golden crust with a custardy center, but beyond that, it’s very easy to adapt. Buttery, eggy breads like brioche or challah are traditional, but whole grain breads are wonderful too and more substantial. See the ideas below for many more ways to make them your own.

Stale bread really is best because it soaks up the egg mixture like a sponge. If you are working with fresh bread, dry it in a 200°F oven for 10 minutes or so.

1. Heat the oven to 200°F. Put a large griddle or skillet over medium-low heat while you prepare the egg mixture.

2. Beat the eggs lightly in a broad bowl and stir in the milk, the salt, and the sugar and vanilla if you’re using them.

3. Add about 1 teaspoon of butter or oil to the griddle or skillet. When the butter is melted or the oil is shimmering, dip each slice of bread in turn in the batter and put it on the griddle. Cook until nicely browned on each side, turning as necessary, for no more than about 10 minutes total; you may find that you can raise the heat a bit. Serve immediately or keep warm in a 200°F oven for up to 30 minutes.

CARAMELIZED FRENCH TOAST Messy, but worth it. The sugary crust melts into a crunchy coating similar to crème brûlée: After dipping each piece of bread in the batter, dredge both sides in sugar. Cook, peeking occasionally and adjusting the heat to make sure the sugar doesn’t burn, until both sides are deeply browned.

EXTRA-RICH FRENCH TOAST A desserty breakfast, or a breakfasty dessert: Use half-and-half—or, if you’re really feeling flush, heavy cream—and add 1 egg yolk to the custard. Use the sugar and vanilla.

NUT-CRUSTED FRENCH TOAST Add ¼ teaspoon nutmeg to the custard. Add another egg and decrease the milk to ¾ cup. Spread about 1 cup sliced almonds or other finely chopped nuts (you may need more, but start with that) on a plate; after dipping the bread in the egg mixture, put the slice on the nuts and press gently to make the nuts stick; flip it over to coat the other side. Proceed with the recipe; be careful not to burn the nut coating.

NUT-CRUSTED FRENCH TOAST Add ¼ teaspoon nutmeg to the custard. Add another egg and decrease the milk to ¾ cup. Spread about 1 cup sliced almonds or other finely chopped nuts (you may need more, but start with that) on a plate; after dipping the bread in the egg mixture, put the slice on the nuts and press gently to make the nuts stick; flip it over to coat the other side. Proceed with the recipe; be careful not to burn the nut coating.

COCONUT FRENCH TOAST Coconut makes a wonderfully crisp yet chewy crust: Use coconut milk in place of regular milk. Follow the preceding variation, using shredded unsweetened coconut instead of nuts. The shredded coconut can burn easily, so keep an eye on it.

CRISPY FRENCH TOAST Stale bread is essential here: Heat the oven to 375°F and prepare the bread as directed. Increase the oil in the pan to 1 tablespoon; after both sides are cooked, transfer the slices to the oven and bake for 5 minutes.

SAVORY FRENCH TOAST Served on its own, this is good at dinnertime too: Decrease the milk to ½ cup. Omit the sugar and vanilla; increase the salt to 1 teaspoon and add 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. If you like, add ½ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme.

VEGAN FRENCH TOAST Use your favorite nondairy milk and increase it to 1½ cups. Use ½ cup applesauce instead of the eggs. Cook in oil instead of butter and make sure the pieces develop a nice crust before flipping them.