Chocolate–Peanut Butter Stuffed French Toast

Makes: 6 to 8 servings

Time: About 30 minutes

This emphasizes the good qualities of French toast—gooey center, crisp edges—in something that’s even richer than the original. As the toast cooks it melts the filling; no syrup needed.

1. Cut horizontally about three-quarters of the way into each slice of bread to create a pocket. Spread a thin layer of peanut butter (about 1 tablespoon) inside the pocket and sprinkle some of the chocolate over the peanut butter; gently press down on the bread to enclose the filling.

2. Set a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-low heat. In a wide, shallow bowl, beat the eggs and milk until the mixture is smooth. Add the salt, sugar, and vanilla.

3. Transfer slices of the stuffed bread to the bowl. Flip them carefully to keep the chocolate from spilling out and press gently on the bread to help it soak up the custard.

4. When the pan is hot enough that water skids across its surface before evaporating, add a pat of butter and a teaspoon of oil. When the butter stops foaming, add the bread to the pan, letting any excess custard drip off first. Don’t overcrowd the pan. Cook each piece until it’s browned on the bottom, about 3 minutes, then flip and repeat, adjusting the heat if necessary to prevent burning. You might need to move the slices around in the pan to help them cook evenly. Serve immediately or keep warm in a 200°F oven for up to 20 minutes.

PEANUT BUTTER, BANANA, AND BACON FRENCH TOAST Crunchy, melty, salty, and sweet: Cook 8 slices of bacon and cut 2 bananas into ¼-inch slices. In Step 1, replace the chocolate with 1 slice of bacon (cut in half crosswise if necessary to fit inside the pocket) and several slices of banana in each piece of bread. Cook the French toast in the rendered bacon fat if you like.

ALMOND-DATE STUFFED FRENCH TOAST A lighter morning boost: Omit the sugar from the egg mixture or replace it with honey. Use almond butter in the French toast and top it with pitted halved dates.

CHOCOLATE-HAZELNUT AND BANANA STUFFED FRENCH TOAST Cut 2 bananas into ¼-inch slices. Use chocolate hazelnut spread (to make your own) in place of the peanut butter and the banana slices instead of the chopped chocolate.

STRAWBERRY AND CREAM CHEESE STUFFED FRENCH TOAST Wonderfully tangy and good with any berry or even sliced peaches: Substitute ½ cup softened cream cheese for the peanut butter. Hull and thinly slice 1 cup strawberries and stuff them into the bread instead of the chocolate.

LEMON-RICOTTA STUFFED FRENCH TOAST Add ¾ cup ricotta cheese to a small bowl; if necessary, drain it beforehand. Combine it with 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest. Fill each slice of bread with about 1½ tablespoons of the ricotta mixture in place of the chocolate and peanut butter.

MONTE CRISTO FRENCH TOAST Savory, sweet, creamy, and crisp: Increase the salt to 1 teaspoon and add 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper; leave out the sugar and vanilla. Instead of chocolate, grate 4 ounces (about 1 cup) Swiss or Gruyère cheese; fill each slice of bread with 2 tablespoons cheese and 1 slice of ham (this is easiest if you chop the ham and toss it with the cheese). If the cheese doesn’t completely melt before the bread browns, just transfer the slices to the warm oven until it does. Dust with confectioners’ sugar and serve with Fruit Jam.

EGG-IN-A-HOLE FRENCH TOAST Two breakfast comfort foods combined: Instead of cutting pockets in the bread, cut a hole 2½ or 3 inches in diameter (or as large as the bread will allow) from the center of the bread; you can do this with a cookie cutter, biscuit cutter, or the rim of a glass. Omit the sugar and vanilla. Cook the first side as directed; when you flip it, crack an egg into the hole and sprinkle it with a little salt and pepper. When the bottom finishes cooking, carefully flip the toast once more and cook for another minute or two, until the egg is set. Don’t forget to cook the round cutout too.