Makes: About 1 dozen
Time: About 1 hour
These old-fashioned doughnuts are leavened with baking powder rather than yeast, which gives them a denser, more cakelike crumb and a satisfyingly crisp crust. This dough doesn’t need to rest, making it a good choice for spontaneous breakfasts. Coat it with Vanilla Glaze, Lemon Glaze, or Jam Glaze, or eat it as is.
1. Combine the flour, baking powder, salt, and the nutmeg if you’re using it. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs and ⅔ cup of the sugar until thick, then add the milk and melted butter. Add the flour mixture a little at a time, mixing first with a whisk and then switching to your hands once it gets too thick. The dough should be sticky but hold together; if it’s too wet, add flour a tablespoon at a time until it comes together.
2. Transfer the dough to a well-floured surface and knead a few times. Roll it out to ½-inch thickness; if it contracts as you roll, let it rest for a few minutes, then try again. Dip a doughnut cutter, a 3-inch cookie cutter, or the rim of a sturdy glass in flour to cut out the doughnuts; cut out the holes with a smaller cookie cutter or shot glass (save them and fry along with the doughnuts). Knead any scraps together, being careful not to overwork, and repeat. Arrange the doughnuts on a floured or parchment-lined baking sheet and cover with a kitchen towel while you heat the oil.
3. Place a candy thermometer inside a large heavy pot or Dutch oven and heat the oil to 375°F. Watch very carefully; too-hot oil is a fire hazard, and oil takes a while to cool down. Line racks or plates with paper towels.
4. Gently add the doughnuts to the oil, a few at a time. After 45 seconds to 1 minute, when the bottoms are deep golden, flip them with a slotted spoon and cook on the other side for another minute. Doughnut holes cook faster, less than 30 seconds per side. Transfer the doughnuts to the prepared racks and repeat with the rest of the dough, adjusting the heat as needed to keep the oil at 375°F.
5. Combine the cinnamon and remaining ⅔ cup sugar in a bowl. When the doughnuts are still hot but have cooled enough to handle, roll them in the cinnamon sugar. Eat them while they’re still warm.
CHOCOLATE DOUGHNUTS Great for dipping in coffee, and classic with Vanilla Glaze: Decrease the flour to 2½ cups and add 1 cup cocoa powder; omit the nutmeg. Use 3 eggs, decrease the sugar to 1¼ cups, and replace ¼ cup of the milk with buttermilk. If the dough is too dry, add more buttermilk, a tablespoon at a time, until it comes together. Fry for 1 minute 15 seconds per side.
APPLE CIDER DOUGHNUTS Dipped in cinnamon sugar and served hot, these are hard to beat: Boil 1 cup apple cider over high heat until it reduces to ⅓ cup; let it cool. Decrease the milk to ¼ cup and add the cooled cider along with it in Step 1. Omit the nutmeg.
CRULLERS This twisted doughnut holds on to glazes well and is fun to eat: On a well-floured surface, roll out the dough into a ½-inch-thick rectangle. Cut the dough into strips about 10 inches long and ¾ inch wide. Make the crullers by folding each strip in half, twisting a few times, then pinching the ends to seal them. Fry for a minute or so per side.