Makes: 8 pieces
Time: 30 minutes
Fried dough is just about universal around the globe, whether you call it frybread, bannock, sopaipillas, chiacchiere, or merveilles. This carnival classic gets a little extra crispiness from seltzer; if you prefer, you can use still water and replace the baking soda with baking powder.
1. Combine the flour, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. Work in the butter using a fork or your hands or pulse the mixture in a food processor until it is barely incorporated and the mixture resembles wet sand. Add the seltzer and stir until combined. Shape the dough into a ball, cover, and let rest for 15 minutes.
2. Fill a Dutch oven or large frying pan with ½ inch of oil and place it over medium heat. Heat the oil to 375°F, watching carefully to make sure it doesn’t get any hotter. Line a plate or rack with paper towels.
3. Divide the dough into 8 pieces and roll each one on a floured surface to ⅛-inch thickness, about 6 inches in diameter. Drop one piece of dough into the oil and cook until the bottom is golden, 30 to 45 seconds; flip and cook on the other side. Transfer to the prepared plate and serve immediately or keep warm in a 200°F oven. Repeat with the rest of the dough. If you like, dust with confectioners’ or granulated sugar while they are still warm.
MERVEILLES A lightly sweetened French version: Replace the baking soda with 1 teaspoon baking powder. To the dry ingredients, add ⅓ cup granulated sugar and 1 tablespoon grated lemon or orange zest. Use softened rather than cubed butter, omit the seltzer, and add 3 beaten eggs along with it. Cover and let rest for 15 minutes. Roll the dough out to an ⅛-inch thickness and cut it into long, narrow triangles. Fry as directed; these take a little longer to become golden. Dust with confectioners’ sugar.
CHIACCHIERE An Italian favorite during carnival season: Follow the preceding variation, adding 2 tablespoons brandy or grappa when you add the eggs. Roll the dough out to ⅛-inch thickness, cut it into rectangles, and fry.
PURI This puffy Indian bread is the perfect thing to serve alongside a curry: Heat the oil first. Omit the baking soda, substitute 2 tablespoons neutral oil for the butter, and use water rather than seltzer, starting with ⅔ cup and adding just enough to form a stiff dough. Don’t chill the dough; knead it, divide the dough into 8 balls, and roll them out to a little more than ⅛ inch thick, using oil to help you roll if necessary, not flour. Fry as directed.