Makes: At least 10 servings
Time: About 50 minutes
This butter-enriched sponge is a building block of many French cakes. Instead of separating the eggs, you cook them as you would Zabaglione and use that custard as the base. The result is just as versatile as the preceding sponge, with a slightly more complex flavor and texture.
1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease the bottom and sides of two 9-inch or three 8-inch layer cake pans, line the bottoms with a circle of wax paper or parchment, grease the paper, and flour the pans.
2. Bring a medium saucepan of water to a simmer over medium heat. Whisk together the eggs, sugar, vanilla, and salt in a large heatproof bowl, then place the bowl over the saucepan; it should rest in the rim without falling inside. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is warm. Remove from the heat and beat with an electric mixer until it’s cool and tripled in volume. Be patient; even with a mixer this could take 5 to 10 minutes. Sift the flour over the egg mixture and gently fold it in until nearly incorporated, then add the melted butter and stir until smooth.
3. Divide the batter evenly between the pans and bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cakes comes out clean or with a few moist crumbs, about 25 minutes. Let the cakes cool in the pans for 5 minutes, then invert onto a rack; remove the paper and turn over to finish cooling right side up.
4. Frost or glaze if you like and store at room temperature. If you’re not frosting right away, you can wrap each layer tightly with plastic wrap and store at room temperature for up to 2 days or wrap in plastic wrap and foil and store in the freezer for up to a few months.
ALMOND GENOISE Substitute 1 teaspoon almond extract for the vanilla.
BROWN BUTTER GENOISE For a richer, nuttier base: In a saucepan, cook the butter over medium heat until the butter solids begin to turn a deep amber, about 5 minutes; swirl the pan frequently so it doesn’t burn.
LEMON OR ORANGE GENOISE Add 1 tablespoon grated or minced lemon or orange zest to the batter. Top the cake with Whipped Cream, Citrus Buttercream, Italian Meringue Frosting, or Creamy Lemon Glaze.
ICE CREAM GENOISE Spread softened ice cream between the layers, then freeze the cake until the ice cream freezes. Top the cake with a glaze or frosting of your choice (pages 556-568).