Apple Tart

Makes: One 9-inch tart, enough for about 8 servings

Time: About 1½ hours

This is a straightforward apple tart that lets the filling shine. It’s no problem to swap in stone fruit or pears here, as in the variations that follow. Top this with cinnamon-spiced Whipped Cream or vanilla ice cream.

1. Partially bake the crust. When the crust is done, turn the oven up to 375°F. Set the crust aside to cool.

2. Toss the apples with the lemon juice so they don’t brown. Arrange the apple slices in concentric circles in the tart shell, with the circles overlapping. Sprinkle with the sugar and cinnamon, then dot with the butter. Put the tart pan on a baking sheet and bake for about 40 minutes, until the apples are quite soft (a thin-bladed knife will pierce them easily) but still hold their shape. Cool on a rack for about 20 minutes.

3. To glaze, if desired: While the tart is cooling, warm the preserves with the water or liqueur in a very small saucepan over medium-low heat until thinned, then strain. Brush this over the top of the tart. Serve the tart at room temperature.

SALTED CARAMEL TART Like eating a caramel apple but better: Make the Salted Caramel Sauce in advance. When it comes time to assemble, layer half of the apples in the crust, then drizzle half of the caramel sauce over them; repeat. No need to glaze with the preserves. Bake as directed.

PEAR TART With good pears . . . incredible: Substitute pears for the apples and ground ginger for the cinnamon.

PEAR-HAZELNUT TART Nothing screams harvest season quite like this tart: Substitute pears for the apples and swap in a Nut Tart Crust made with hazelnuts. If you like, top with Nut Crumb Topping made with hazelnuts as well.

PEACH TART For pre-apple season: Substitute 3 to 4 pounds peaches, pitted and sliced thinly, for the apples.

APPLE-ALMOND TART The nuts make a huge difference: Toast ¾ cup blanched almonds while you heat the oven for the tart shell. Cool, then put them in a food processor and finely grind them, stopping before they turn into a paste. Toss with ¼ teaspoon cinnamon and 1 tablespoon sugar, then spread them on the bottom of the prebaked tart shell before topping with the apples and proceeding with the recipe.

TWO-APPLE TART Nice change: You’ll need about twice as many apples. Prepare half of them as directed. Peel, core, and coarsely chop the other half, then cook them in a saucepan over low heat, partially covered and stirring occasionally, with 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest, 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, and ¼ cup water, until soft but still holding their shape, about 15 minutes. Add sugar to taste, about ½ cup. Cool, then spread this mixture on the bottom of the prebaked tart shell before topping with the uncooked apples and proceeding with the recipe.

APPLE CUSTARD TART Gooey and good: Increase the sugar to ¾ cup and the butter to 8 tablespoons (1 stick). Omit the preserves. In a large skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter. Add about half of the sugar to it and cook over high heat until it begins to brown. Turn down the heat to medium and add the apples. Cook, stirring minimally, until the apples begin to caramelize, about 10 minutes. Melt the remaining butter and set aside. In a medium bowl, beat 2 eggs with the remaining sugar until thick. Stir in the butter and cinnamon. Arrange the apples in the tart shell and cover with the egg mixture. Bake as directed.

APPLE-WALNUT CREAM TART Proving that cream equals comfort: Omit the butter and preserves. Swap in a Nut Tart Crust made with walnuts for the Sweet Tart Crust. In a small bowl, beat together ¾ cup cream and 2 egg yolks. Stir in the cinnamon and sugar. If you like, add 1 tablespoon bourbon or ½ teaspoon almond extract. Pour over the arranged apples in the tart pan. Bake as directed.