There’s nothing like fresh ice cream, straight from the machine—it’s soft-serve at its best, with ideal texture and the freshest flavors. Ice cream keeps for a while, but once you’ve stored it in the freezer, it will never be the same, though it’ll still be delicious. Let it soften slightly before serving, about 30 minutes in the refrigerator or 15 minutes on the counter.
Of course, there are also easier, lower-tech frozen desserts than ice cream, all of which are equally refreshing and adaptable. Granitas are like uber-slushies, and nothing beats them for icy summertime fixes. (Note that they are naturally vegan too.) Semifreddo, rich and creamy, will satisfy even the strongest ice cream craving, but it’s made of whipped cream, egg whites, and a quick custard, then frozen in a loaf pan rather than churned in a machine. And don’t forget ice pops, totally kid-friendly but, as you’ll see, sophisticated enough for adults.
ICE CREAM
Ice cream may be made with milk, half-and-half, or cream, typically a combination; it has to have at least 10 percent milk fat. Custard-based—that is, egg-thickened—ice cream is usually called French ice cream. Eggless varieties are made with cornstarch; these were once called “Philadelphia” ice cream. Many people prefer it because its flavors may seem purer than those made with eggs. It’s easiest to make ice cream with a machine, but you can do without; see page 309.
GELATO
This Italian counterpart to ice cream is typically made with more milk than cream, and denser. Specialized gelato machines add less air than most ice cream makers, but it’s easy to make your own homemade version by slightly under-churning. Adding a bit of corn syrup (not to be confused with the high-fructose stuff) does a good job of replicating the almost fudgy consistency.
ICE MILK
Ice milk can be thought of as crude ice cream or extra-creamy sorbet. You make it in an ice cream machine, but it freezes harder and forms larger ice crystals; what you lose in texture and richness you also lose in fat and calories, which makes it a great option for some. You can make ice milk from any kind of milk as long as you adjust your expectations and realize that it is more akin to sorbet than ice cream; treat it that way and you won’t be disappointed. You can also make ice milk from nondairy milks, like coconut or nut milk.
FROZEN YOGURT
The frozen yogurt served at most shops is soft ice cream by another name, but the best frozen yogurt sticks to its origins and is slightly sour. The only real difference between the two is that yogurt takes the place of ice cream’s custard or cornstarch base.
SORBET
Sorbet is typically—but not always—fruit based and dairy and egg free. At its core, it’s about simplicity and intensity of flavor; at a minimum, it can be made with just two or three ingredients, like fruit purée (the base), sugar, and sometimes a bit of water. Sherbet is the dairy version, with a milk fat content of 1 to 2 percent. Any fruit or vegetable can serve as a base for either, as well as chocolate, coffee, tea, and more (see More Flavors for Sorbet, Granita, and Ice Pops).
You can make sorbet in a food processor, but if you do, it’s best to serve it ASAP; it gets quite hard in the freezer. Otherwise, let it soften in the fridge for 15 to 20 minutes before serving, and blitz it once or twice in the food processor if it still won’t soften.
GRANITA
Granitas are among the easier and readily customizable frozen desserts—you don’t need a machine or any special equipment to make them, you can use literally any flavored liquid you like, and no special technique is involved. Intensely flavored, with a crunchy, slushy, largely unrefined texture, they’re never more appealing than in the dead of summer. Making them is a largely lazy affair: You freeze a liquid and return to stir and scrape it periodically as it freezes until the whole thing resembles a snow cone.
ICE POPS
Or Popsicles, freezer pops, paletas—these are made by freezing any liquid in a mold with a stick. They’re great made with just juice, or use any of the sorbet or granita variations. Refreshing, fun to make and eat with kids, and very low effort. You don’t even need molds: Paper cups or large ice cube molds will do the job.
EQUIPMENT
I’m not an appliance geek, but I do recommend that you buy an ice cream machine if you ever want to make ice cream or its relatives. The most economical are those with insulated bowls that you freeze ahead of time, or those that just sit in the freezer. When the time comes, you fill the container with your custard mixture, then crank by motor or even hand. Most will make a quart or so, and even motorized ones cost as little as $25. On the other hand, if you’re really serious about your frozen desserts, the top-of-the-line machines have built-in refrigeration units and timers, weigh up to 50 pounds, cost a few hundred dollars when new, and do almost all the work. Fanatics will want one of these.