Butterscotch Rice Pudding

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 1½ hours, largely unattended

There’s not much to making this beyond letting the rice cook long and slow on the stovetop to absorb the milk. Brown rice is chewier, and has a nuttiness that makes a hearty, not-too-sweet dessert and goes beautifully with the butterscotch flavor; white rice, of course, is more familiar, and softer, if you prefer. Try any of the flavor variations for Rice Pudding too.

1. Combine the milk, rice, and salt in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low. Partially cover and let simmer, checking on it occasionally to make sure the milk isn’t bubbling over, until the rice is tender and has absorbed most of the liquid, about an hour.

2. Beat together the brown sugar, butter, and vanilla until smooth. Stir the sugar mixture into the saucepan and let the mixture cook, uncovered, until it has thickened, another 5 minutes or so. If it gets thicker than you’d like, just stir in a splash of milk. Serve warm or at room temperature or press a layer of plastic wrap over the pudding’s surface, refrigerate, and serve it cold.

MAPLE BROWN RICE PUDDING Replace the brown sugar with ½ cup maple syrup; omit the butter and vanilla. If you like, stir in 1 teaspoon cinnamon and ½ teaspoon ginger when you add the syrup.

BROWN RICE PUDDING WITH NUTS AND DRIED FRUITS Replace half of the milk with any nut milk. Omit the butter; add ⅔ cup each of chopped toasted nuts and raisins or other dried fruit along with the brown sugar and vanilla.

COCONUT BROWN RICE PUDDING Garnish this with toasted coconut flakes: Substitute coconut milk for half of the regular milk and granulated sugar for the brown sugar. Omit the butter and vanilla.

COOKED-RICE PUDDING An excellent shortcut and one of the best uses for leftover rice: Decrease the milk to 3 cups and combine it with 3 cups cooked rice. Proceed with the recipe or any of the variations, cooking for just 15 minutes or so.