Baked Custard (Pots de Crème)

Makes: About 6 servings

Time: About 45 minutes

A more elegant version of vanilla pudding, this can be made ahead and served cold or at room temperature or eaten warm from the oven. Try using your favorite spice instead of the vanilla, and top with Whipped Cream.

1. Heat the oven to 325°F and put a kettle of water on to boil. In a small saucepan over medium heat, cook the cream just until it begins to steam, 3 to 5 minutes. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs and yolks with the salt, sugar, and vanilla until pale yellow and fairly thick.

2. Gradually whisk one-third of the hot cream into the egg mixture, stirring constantly, then whisk this mixture into the remaining cream. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve if there are any lumps. Pour the mixture into six 4- to 6-ounce custard cups or an ovenproof dish, then put the cups or dish in a baking pan. Pour the boiling water into the pan so that it comes about halfway up the sides of the dish. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes for individual cups and a little longer if you’re using one large dish, until the custard is not quite set—it should wobble just a little in the middle. Remove the pan from the oven and carefully take the cups or dish out of the water. Serve warm, at room temperature, or cold (they’ll firm up more as they cool), within a day.

CRÉME BRÛLÈE Add ½ cup more cream, omit the whole eggs, and use 6 egg yolks. Bake as directed, let cool, cover with plastic wrap, and chill for up to a day or 2. Put an oven rack as close to the broiler as the height of the baking dish or cups will allow. Sprinkle ½ cup sugar in a thin, even layer over the custards, then place in the cold oven. Turn on the broiler and cook for 5 to 10 minutes, watching carefully and rotating the dishes if necessary. When the sugar bubbles and browns, it’s ready. Let sit for a few minutes before serving. Or, if you want to serve it cold (which is traditional), chill in the fridge for about 30 minutes; much longer than that and the brûléed sugar will get soggy. (You can also do the brûlée with a propane torch. Same concept: Heat the sugar with the flame until it bubbles and browns.)

LEMON CUSTARD Use 3 eggs and 4 yolks; increase the sugar to ¾ cup and omit the vanilla. Beat ½ cup fresh lemon juice and 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest into the egg mixture before adding the cream.

CHOCOLATE CUSTARD A little richer and more elegant than Chocolate Pudding: Decrease the sugar to ¼ cup. Melt 4 ounces chopped dark chocolate and cool slightly; stir into the egg mixture before adding the cream. Top with Whipped Cream if you like.

PUMPKIN CUSTARD A great gluten-free Thanksgiving dessert and simpler than a pie: Increase the sugar to ¾ cup. Instead of vanilla, add 1 teaspoon cinnamon, ½ teaspoon ginger, and ½ teaspoon nutmeg. Stir 1 cup pumpkin purée into the heated cream until smooth. Increase the eggs to 3 and the yolks to 3 and proceed with the recipe.

CAPPUCCINO CUSTARD Stir 2 tablespoons instant espresso powder into the cream just after removing it from the heat. Proceed with the recipe.

CHAI-SPICED CUSTARD Add 2 chai tea bags to the cream before cooking, then let steep for 15 minutes after removing from the heat. Remove the tea bags and proceed with the recipe.

Baking in a Water Bath

Set the custard cups or baking dish in a large baking pan. Pour hot water into the pan so that it comes about halfway up the sides of the cups.