Halvah

Makes: About 2 pounds

Time: About 30 minutes, plus time to cool

At once flaky and dense, halvah has many variations the world over. This one has a sweet, nutty depth and is a little chewier than most. Pistachios and cardamom add color and a delicate flavor, but use any nuts or spices you like—walnuts and cinnamon are nice, as are almonds and vanilla.

• Neutral oil (like grapeseed or corn) for greasing
• 2 cups honey
• 2 cups tahini
• 2 cups chopped toasted pistachios (see page 57)
• ½ teaspoon cardamom (optional)

1. Lightly oil the insides of a loaf pan or an 8- or 9-inch square baking dish.

2. Clip a candy thermometer inside a medium saucepan, making sure it’s not touching the bottom of the pan. Add the honey and cook over medium heat until it reaches 240°F (soft-ball stage; see page 346). Remove it from the heat. Put the tahini in a separate saucepan over medium heat and cook until it’s about 120°F. With a wooden spoon, stir it into the honey along with the nuts and the cardamom if you’re using it. Continue to stir until the mixture is stiff but still pourable, about 5 minutes.

3. Pour the mixture into the prepared dish and let cool at room temperature; cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 to 36 hours (so the sugar crystals have time to form). Run an oiled knife around the edges to loosen the halvah from the pan, then invert it onto a cutting board and cut it into slices or chunks. Bring to room temperature before serving. Wrapped well, this will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks.

DOUBLE-SESAME HALVAH Instead of nuts, use 2 cups toasted sesame seeds (white, black, or a combination). If you like, substitute 1 teaspoon rose water for the cardamom.