Black Pepper Hardtack

Makes: About 4 dozen

Time: About 1¼ hours

Hardtack is best (or worst) known for its impressive shelf life: These thick, crunchy crackers were used as rations on long sea voyages or in battle. They get a bad rap because, back then, they were typically little more than flour and water baked until hard. With a defter touch (and some olive oil and seasoning), they make a hearty snack to dunk in coffee, tea, beer, or wine. Or put them at the bottom of a bowl of chili, soup, or stew; they’ll absorb the flavors but stay intact. You can bake these in big batches and store them for a few weeks.

1. Heat the oven to 325°F and lightly oil 2 baking sheets.

2. Combine the flours, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl. Add 1⅓ cups water and ¼ cup olive oil and stir until a thick dough forms.

3. With floured hands, divide the dough into 4 pieces and roll each into a rope about 1 inch thick. Cut each rope into 1-inch pieces. Use the palm of your hand or a floured glass to press each piece into a thick round; it’s okay if they’re shaped unevenly, but you want them to be ¼ to ½ inch thick. Prick each cracker all over with a fork.

4. Transfer the crackers to the prepared baking sheets. Bake until they begin to brown, about 30 minutes; flip them and continue to bake until the other side is browned, another 30 minutes or so. Cool and store in a tightly covered container for up to a few weeks.

BACON HARDTACK Reduce the oil to 2 tablespoons. Before starting the recipe, heat the oil in a skillet and crisp ½ cup chopped bacon in it. Add the bacon (including any rendered fat) to the dough along with the water. Store the finished crackers in the fridge or freezer and let come to room temperature before serving.

OLIVE-ROSEMARY HARDTACK Use all whole wheat flour. In Step 1, add ½ cup finely chopped olives and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary to the dough along with the salt and pepper.

HARDTACK WITH NUTS AND SEEDS Reduce the black pepper to 1 teaspoon. In Step 1, add ½ cup chopped walnuts, pecans, or pistachios and 2 tablespoons sesame seeds or flaxseeds to the dough along with the salt and pepper.

PARMESAN AND DRIED TOMATO HARDTACK Use all whole wheat flour. In Step 1, add ½ cup freshly grated Parmesan and ½ cup dried tomatoes (reconstituted, well drained, and chopped) to the dough along with the salt and pepper.