Chapati

Makes: 8 to 12

Time: At least 1 hour

True chapatis are twice cooked—first on a dry griddle and then over an open flame—so that the dough traps steam and puffs up dramatically. This version is much simpler but makes a bread that is still delicious, with a savory whole wheat flavor that’s subtle enough to be the perfect accompaniment for all kinds of things, from a simple slathering of butter or ghee to curries, soups, and stews, Indian or not.

You can mix the dough in advance, but chapatis must be eaten immediately after a batch is cooked, when they’re irresistibly warm and soft. Line a basket or plate with a cloth napkin before you start to cook; as the chapatis come off the griddle, pile them up and wrap loosely. This will keep them warm and moist while you cook the rest.

1. Use a fine-mesh sieve or sifter to sift the flours and salt into the bowl of a food processor or a large bowl. Discard any coarse bran that’s left in the sieve or save for another use.

2. With the machine running, pour in 1 cup warm water and process for about 30 seconds, then remove the cover. The dough should be in a well-defined, barely sticky, easy-to-handle ball. If it’s too dry, add more water 1 tablespoon at a time and process for 5 or 10 seconds after each addition. If too wet, which is unlikely, add a tablespoon or two of flour and process briefly. If you’re working by hand, add the water in intervals, stirring after each addition until combined, and continue to work the dough in the bowl until it starts to pull together.

3. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface; knead a few times if you mixed it by hand until it smooths out. Cover and let rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours. (At this point the dough can be wrapped tightly in plastic and refrigerated for up to a day; bring to room temperature before proceeding.)

4. Divide the dough into 8 to 12 evenly sized pieces (depending on how thick you’d like the chapatis). Using flour as necessary, pat each piece into a 4-inch disk. Dust lightly with flour to keep them from sticking and cover them with plastic wrap or a damp cloth or paper towel while you pat out the others. (It’s okay to overlap them a bit, but don’t stack them.)

5. Line a basket with cloth and set it aside. Put a griddle or heavy skillet over medium heat. When it’s hot, roll out a disk until it’s about ⅛ inch thick, dusting lightly with flour as necessary; the shape doesn’t matter as long as it fits in the pan. Pat off any excess flour and put the chapati in the pan, count to 15 or so, then use a spatula to flip it and cook the other side until it starts to blister, char, and puff up a bit, about a minute. (You can use this time to roll out the next disk.) Turn and cook the first side again, until it’s dark and smells toasty. Transfer to the prepared basket and repeat with the rest of the dough. Serve immediately.

GRILLED CHAPATI Smoky and puffy, these are perfect for when you’ve already got a fire going and have some room on the grill: Heat a charcoal or gas grill until moderately hot and put the rack about 4 inches from the heat source. If you have the space, take the disks outside for the final rolling. If not, roll all the chapatis out, flour them well, and stack between layers of wax paper or parchment. Cook the chapatis, several at a time, as described in Step 5, only directly on the grill grates instead of the griddle.

6 Ways to Vary Chapati Dough