Makes: 1 boule
Time: About 5 hours, largely unattended
This, along with No-Knead Bread, is my go-to bread recipe. It’s easy (the dough comes together in seconds in the food processor), reasonably fast (the three-hour rise is pretty modest as far as breads go), and the crust is sensational. That last part is achieved by a hot oven and an initial blast of steam that you create by adding water to a preheated skillet. You can shorten the rise time without sacrificing much or slow it down for even better results (see the variations). You could also mix and knead the dough by hand or in a stand mixer as described on page 397.
1. Put the flour in the food processor, add the salt and yeast, and turn the machine on. With the machine running, pour 1½ cups water through the feed tube in a steady stream. Process until the dough forms a sticky ball. If the dough begins sticking to the side of the bowl, you’ve added too much water; add more flour, 1 to 2 tablespoons at a time, and keep going. If it’s too dry, add water 1 tablespoon at a time and process for 5 or 10 seconds after each addition.
2. Dump the lump of dough into a large bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise on the counter for 3 to 4 hours.
3. Dust a counter or tabletop with a little flour. Shape the dough into a boule, sprinkling with flour as necessary but keeping it to a minimum. Line a colander or large bowl with a well-floured kitchen towel, put the dough on top, and cover with another towel (this keeps it from spreading too much). Let the dough rise for 40 minutes.
4. Put an ovenproof skillet (preferably cast iron) on the floor or lowest rack of the oven and heat the oven to 450°F. If you’ll be baking the dough on a baking stone, put it on the rack above the skillet; if not, line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
5. Slash the top of the loaf once or twice with a razor blade or sharp knife. If you’re using a baking stone, slide the boule, seam side down, onto a lightly floured peel or flexible cutting board; otherwise, place it directly on the prepared baking sheet. Use the peel or cutting board to transfer the boule to the stone or slide the baking sheet onto the rack above the heated skillet. Then partially pull out the rack with the skillet and very carefully pour in 1 cup hot water (it will create a lot of steam). Slide the rack back in and immediately close the oven door.
6. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, rotating the bread or the baking sheet halfway through, until the crust is beautifully browned and the internal temperature reaches 200°F or the loaf sounds hollow when tapped. Keep an eye on it; if it’s browning too quickly, lower the temperature to 425°F. Remove the loaf, spray with a bit of water if you would like a shinier crust, and cool on a rack for at least an hour.
BAGUETTES OR ROLLS Same dough, different shape: Follow the directions and illustrations on pages 399 to 400. Go light on the flour when you’re shaping the dough; a little friction makes rolling easier. Cover and let rise directly on a floured towel, then transfer them to the baking stone or sheet. Bake at 465°F for 20 to 25 minutes, until the internal temperature reaches 200°F. Cool for at least 20 minutes.
FASTER FRENCH BREAD Though you sacrifice a little flavor and texture for speed here, you won’t be disappointed with the results: In Step 2, shorten the rising time to 1 hour.
WHOLE GRAIN FRENCH BREAD Substitute ¾ cup whole wheat, rye, or barley flour for ¾ cup of the all-purpose flour. You can replace up to a third of the flour (1⅓ cups) without losing the characteristic texture of the bread, but any more than that will produce a loaf with a softer crust and doughier crumb.
OVERNIGHT FRENCH BREAD Slower but even better. This bread requires 2 mixings, one to make a sponge and one to finish the dough, and takes 12 hours or preferably happens overnight. Otherwise nothing changes: In Step 1, combine 2½ cups of the flour, the yeast, and 1 teaspoon of the salt in the food processor. With the machine running, pour 1½ cups water through the feed tube. Process until a smooth, pancakelike batter is formed. Cover and let rest in a cool place overnight or for at least 6 hours. Add the remaining flour and salt to the mixture, turn the machine on again, and, if necessary, add water, a little at a time, until a moist, well-defined ball forms.