Makes: 1 loaf
Time: About 5 hours, largely unattended
Molasses and cocoa powder give this deli classic its characteristic deep brown color and faintly bitter (in a good way) but balanced flavor. If you want something darker and more intense, you can increase both by 1 to 2 tablespoons, or just make Black Bread. For a really fun and impressive loaf, check out the Marble Rye variation that follows.
1. To mix the dough in a stand mixer, combine all of the ingredients except the oil in the mixer bowl with 1¼ cups water. Using a dough hook, mix on medium-low speed until the ingredients are blended together, then raise the speed to medium and mix until the dough is elastic, shiny, and smooth, 8 to 10 minutes.
2. To mix the dough in a food processor, put all the ingredients except the oil in the work bowl and pulse a few times to combine. With the machine running, stream in the water and process until the dough comes together into a sticky ball, about 30 seconds. Turn it out onto a floured counter and knead, using just enough additional flour to keep it from sticking, until the dough is elastic and smooth, 5 or 6 minutes.
3. Grease a large bowl with a little oil, transfer the dough to the bowl, rub a little more oil on the top of the dough, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise at room temperature until doubled in size, about 2 hours.
4. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter and shape it into a round loaf. Line a colander or large bowl with a well-floured kitchen towel, put the loaf on top, and cover with another floured towel. Or, for sandwich bread, grease a 9 × 5-inch loaf pan, shape the dough into a loaf, and place in the pan (see illustrations, page 401). Let the dough rise for another 2 hours.
5. About 45 minutes before the dough has risen, heat the oven to 425°F. Put an ovenproof skillet (preferably cast iron) on the floor or the lowest rack while the oven heats. If you’re using a baking stone, put it on the rack above the skillet while the oven heats; if not, line a baking sheet with parchment paper (neither is necessary if using a loaf pan).
6. Once you’re ready to bake, slide or turn out the dough onto a lightly floured peel or flexible cutting board or transfer it to the prepared baking sheet. Slash the top of the loaf a few times with a sharp knife or razor blade. Use the peel or cutting board to slide the loaf onto the stone or slide the baking sheet or loaf pan into the oven. Partially pull out the rack with the heated skillet and very carefully pour 1 cup hot water into the skillet (it will create a lot of steam). Slide the rack back in and immediately close the oven door.
7. Bake for 10 minutes, then lower the heat to 400°F. Continue baking for 30 to 35 minutes, turning the bread or the baking sheet halfway through, until the crust is brown and the internal temperature reaches 195°F on a quick-read thermometer. Cool on a wire rack before slicing.
MARBLE RYE For this two-toned, spiral bread you make double the dough—a dark one (pumpernickel) and a light one (rye). It’s way less than double the effort, since they rise at the same time, and you get two stunning loaves in return: Make the pumpernickel dough as directed. For the rye, make the recipe again but omit the cocoa powder and molasses. After the doughs have risen in Step 2, divide each into 4 equal pieces. Pat the pieces into roughly 6-inch squares and stack them in an alternating pattern, 4 pieces per loaf. Tightly roll into a log and pinch the seam to seal. Place each loaf, seam side down, in a greased pan, cover, and let rise for another 1½ to 2 hours. Brush or spray the top of each loaf lightly with water and bake at 375°F for 45 to 50 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through, until the loaves sound hollow when you tap them. Remove from the pan and cool on a wire rack before slicing and serving.