Berry Jalousie

Makes: 1 tart, enough for 8 to 10 servings

Time: About 45 minutes

The unusual name is a reference to a style of window shutters; like its namesake, the pastry is long, large, and narrow, with many slats that allow the top crust to crisp up beautifully. Whether you’re filling it with fresh berries, warm compote, or pumpkin custard (see the variations), it’s equally good at brunch or for dessert alongside a scoop of ice cream and perfect for serving a crowd since every slice is impressive.

1. Roughly chop the strawberries and toss them with the sugar and lemon zest. Transfer this mixture to a strainer set over a bowl and let sit and drain while you prepare the jalousie.

2. Heat the oven to 400°F. Lightly sprinkle flour over a piece of parchment paper, set the dough on it, and roll into a 15 × 12-inch rectangle; cut this in half lengthwise. (Note that if your baking sheet is smaller than average, you should make the dough only so long that it can fit comfortably on the sheet or divide the dough in half and make 2 smaller ones.) Spread the jam down the center of one piece of dough, leaving a 1-inch border, then spoon the drained macerated berries over the jam, transferring as little excess juice with them as possible.

3. Beat the egg with 1 tablespoon water and brush it along the border of the dough. Top with the other piece of dough, press the edges to seal, and lightly coat the top with more egg wash. Use the tines of a fork to crimp the sides, then use a paring knife to cut slits along the width of the top crust, every 2 inches or so, so that steam can escape. At this point, you can bake right away or cover and refrigerate overnight.

4. Use the parchment paper to transfer the jalousie to a baking sheet. Bake until it is nicely puffed up and golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Immediately transfer to a cooling rack and cool to room temperature. Cut into slices to serve.

STRAWBERRY CREAM CHEESE JALOUSIE Bring 6 ounces cream cheese to room temperature and beat it until fluffy; spread it over the dough in lieu of the jam.

PEAR-ALMOND JALOUSIE Peel, core, and chop 2 large ripe pears. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a saucepan over medium heat; add the pears and sugar and omit the zest. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the fruit is tender and caramelized, then remove from the heat and add 1 teaspoon vanilla. Chill or cool to room temperature. Use Frangipane in place of the raspberry jam.

APPLE-WALNUT JALOUSIE Follow the preceding variation, substituting apples for the pears and cinnamon for the vanilla. Follow the directions for Frangipane but use ground walnuts in place of the almond flour.

APRICOT-PISTACHIO JALOUSIE Use pistachio cream (follow the directions for Frangipane, using ground pistachios in place of the almond flour) instead of the jam. Pit and thinly slice 4 apricots; omit the lemon and sugar and toss the slices with ½ teaspoon cardamom, then spoon this over the pistachio cream.

PUMPKIN SPICE JALOUSIE Toast and finely chop 2 cups pecans. Make the filling for Pumpkin Pie you won’t use a full recipe. Spread it evenly in a thin but generous layer over the dough, then scatter the pecans over it.