Flaky Raisin Buns (Pain aux Raisins)

Makes: About 20

Time: About 1 hour, plus time to proof

Beloved in France, this croissant cousin contains a creamy, nutty filling and is studded with raisins. You can also make it—or any of its variations—with puff pastry (for homemade) or, for a softer and eggier bun, Brioche.

1. Fill a small saucepan with water and bring it to a boil. Put the raisins in a heatproof bowl, then cover them with the boiling water and let soak while you make the frangipane. Drain the raisins and press out excess water.

2. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a rectangle about 24 × 10 inches; loosely wrap it and refrigerate for 10 minutes or so if it gets too warm or oily while you roll it out.

3. Spread the frangipane in a thin layer to completely coat the dough, then sprinkle the raisins evenly over the frangipane. Starting with one of the long sides, roll the dough tightly into a log. Place the log on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and cover it loosely (you may have to drape the log diagonally to fit); refrigerate for about 30 minutes or until the log is cold and slightly firm before slicing and baking.

4. Meanwhile, line another baking sheet with parchment paper. (If you have only one baking sheet, use the parchment to transfer the log off the sheet onto your work surface.) Cut the log into 1-inch slices and place the rounds about 2 inches apart on the prepared baking sheets. Refrigerate any remaining dough if the pastries won’t all fit comfortably. Tuck the tail of each pastry underneath it to seal. Leave in a warm place to rise until the pastries puff up and almost double in size, 2 to 3 hours.

5. Heat the oven to 400°F. Beat the egg in a bowl with 1 tablespoon water and brush the egg wash over the top of each pastry. Bake until golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes. Serve within a day or two.

FLAKY CINNAMON BUNS Instead of using the frangipane, soften 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter and spread it all over the dough. Combine ¾ cup light brown sugar with 2 tablespoons cinnamon and sprinkle the mixture evenly over the butter; omit the raisins. Proceed with the recipe, then frost with Cream Cheese Frosting or Vanilla Glaze.

FLAKY PISTACHIO-CARDAMOM BUNS A fabulous but unexpected flavor combination: Follow the preceding variation, using ¼ cup honey in place of the butter and 1 tablespoon cardamom in place of the cinnamon. Finely chop 1 cup pistachios and scatter them over the honey layer.

FLAKY PECAN STICKY BUNS A hybrid of two breakfast knockouts: Omit the frangipane. Combine ¾ cup Caramel Sauce with 2 tablespoons cinnamon; brush this over the rolled-out dough. Instead of raisins, top with 1 cup finely chopped toasted pecans.

FLAKY DATE-NUT BUNS Dates add a subtle sweetness that’s not too rich with the buttery dough: Omit the frangipane. Swap 1 cup pitted dates for the raisins; once they’re drained, blitz them in a food processor with 1 tablespoon cinnamon, adding water 1 tablespoon at a time if needed until you have a loose paste. Spread this over the dough, then scatter on 1 cup finely chopped walnuts.