Cheese is a reliable and classic staple of savory cooking (it also works spectacularly with many sweet flavors), and a slice of good cheese is such a sublime treat that it can take the place of dessert entirely or be served simply with homemade jam (page 575) and crackers.
Not too long ago, cheese selection was, for most of us, limited to not much more than supermarket versions of cheddar, “Swiss,” and Parmesan, none of which bear much if any resemblance to their original and true forms. Now the variety is staggering, perhaps slightly overwhelming at times; more and more grocery stores have a dedicated section, even a full counter with dozens of types of cheese from all corners of the globe. Almost all are made from cow’s, sheep’s, or goat’s milk (mozzarella di bufala, that divinely creamy mozzarella that you might see occasionally, comes from water buffalo).
As with many other ingredients, a good rule of thumb is to bake with cheeses you’d like to eat plain, because the best (and worst) attributes of any cheese you choose will likely show up in the finished product. There are other factors too—strength of flavor, firmness, graininess, the ability to crumble or melt—that determine which cheese will work best in which baking recipes, and the cheeses I suggest in each recipe and chart take all those characteristics into account.
In general, cheese is best bought in small quantities (with the exception of hard cheeses like Parmesan, which keep for months); soft, fresh cheeses especially don’t keep long, unless they’re mass produced, in which case they probably aren’t worth eating. Treat them as you would produce, buying them whenever inspiration strikes.
I’ve grouped the cheeses that follow by texture, since that’s usually the most important detail in baking. In general, you can swap cheeses from the same category: cheddar for Gouda, pecorino Romano for Parmesan, and so on, although the taste will be at least subtly different.
SOFT, CREAMY CHEESES
Tangy yet mild, these are baking powerhouses: you’re just as likely to see them whipped into a frosting or filling sweet pastries as you are to dollop them over pizza or serve with herbs or meat.
Ricotta The best ricotta has a pure, rich milky flavor and a consistency that borders on fluffy. Ricotta makes a phenomenal cheesecake (page 222) and enriches many other sweet batters, but also pairs naturally with mozzarella and even more assertively flavored cheeses. Some are looser than others; strain it through a fine-mesh sieve if it seems runny. Try to avoid the hyperprocessed tubs at the supermarket.
Fresh Goat Cheese (Chèvre) This usually comes in logs or disks that you can crumble as is, soften and spread, or whip. It goes well with honey and berries for a sweet application or herbs, caramelized onions, or meat for savory.
Cream Cheese Best known in baking as a frosting or the basis of a cheesecake, cream cheese is tremendously versatile: Whip it with fruit or spices to make pastry fillings, or add it to batters and doughs for a rich, creamy texture.
Mascarpone Perhaps my favorite of the creamy cheeses, with a mild, slightly sweet flavor that’s fabulous with fruit. If you can’t find it, you can generally substitute crème fraîche, sour cream, or thick yogurt.
SEMISOFT AND WASHED-RIND CHEESES
Mozzarella Freshly made mozzarella (which often comes packed in water or sometimes oil) can be made from the milk of a cow or water buffalo (that’s mozzarella di bufala) and is quite different from the drier, slightly aged brick kind available at supermarkets and delis. In fact, I rarely use the latter unless I must, and I never get the shredded kind that comes in bags. Fresh mozzarella should taste like milk, only with a little tang, and should never be rubbery or stringy. Snack on it, or combine it, raw or on pizza, with tomatoes and basil.
Fontina This cow’s milk cheese melts superbly and has a nutty, creamy flavor that’s a bit more assertive than mozzarella’s and as good for snacking as it is for baking; younger varieties are milder. (The best, the original, is Fontina Val d’Aosta.) Try swapping it for half of the mozzarella if you’d like a change.
Brie, Camembert, and Toma The first two are of French origin, while the third is Italian, but versions of all are now made in the United States, and some are really good—when in doubt, ask your cheesemonger. They’re all soft-ripened cow’s milk cheeses with a thick, white, slightly fuzzy edible rind. Triple-cream versions have higher fat, with the flavor of Brie and the texture of good butter. You won’t bake with them often, but of course the best ones are the perfect accompaniment to homemade breads, crackers, and fruit.
Taleggio This Italian cheese smells funky, so its mild, fruity flavor is a wonderful surprise. It’s phenomenal on pizza, bold enough to stand up to other toppings like kale, radicchio, or fruit, but excellent at blending in.
SEMIHARD CHEESES
These cheeses are firm but have a creamy texture, and the best of them melt smoothly without leaving behind a rubbery, stringy, or greasy mess. Grate them or thinly slice them for baking; they can be folded into fillings or scattered over flatbreads and pizzas.
Cheddar I prefer sharp cheddar cheeses, with at least a little bit of age on them, because these are more flavorful and melt better. If you can’t get your hands on a true English Cheddar, there are now some good ones made in the States.
Swiss-Style Cheeses (“Swiss,” Gruyère, Emmental, Comté) Although each of these is unique, I’m grouping them together here because they share a velvety texture when melted and a complex, nutty taste that makes them good choices for combining with other ingredients. They are especially good options for a quiche or vegetable tart.
Gouda Like Swiss, you can think of Gouda as an umbrella term for the wide range of varieties made in the style of this Dutch cheese. Typically made with cow’s milk, you can also find goat or sheep varieties; all share a characteristic salty but mild flavor that makes it one of the most popular types of cheese. Some versions are smoked, which adds another dimension of flavor. And the aged varieties are sharper. A good choice for sweet recipes; it’s a savory complement to most fruits.
Provolone The flavor of this smooth cow’s milk cheese varies greatly, from sweet to sharp, depending on how it’s been aged. At its best, it’s somewhat reminiscent of Parmesan. Great on pizza.
HARD CHEESES
These cheeses are, in a sense, easiest to use: because they’re dry, they can be grated very finely and blend seamlessly into batters and doughs, they melt on virtually anything, and they can be sprinkled directly over dishes about to go into the oven. They also have a powerful impact, so you can hardly go wrong. Use a Microplane to get an almost snowlike fineness, use a grater for larger shreds, or shave with a vegetable peeler.
PARMESAN If I could have only one cheese, this would be it. I cannot emphasize how important it is to spring for the real thing—Parmigiano-Reggiano—which is imported (only) from Italy and sold virtually everywhere nowadays. Look for a waxy rind marked with the name in pinhole-punched lettering. With a complex nutty flavor and a slightly grainy but almost buttery texture, you’ll reach for this cheese all the time. A decent substitute is grano padano. But Parmesan is truly unique.
PECORINO ROMANO A sheep’s milk cheese from Italy with a salty, sharp funk; it has a similar texture to Parmesan and can be used for nearly all of the same things; the flavor, however, is much stronger. Preferable in some instances.
MANCHEGO A Spanish sheep’s milk cheese with a black rind. It’s firm but buttery, nutty but sharp, sweet but sour. Excellent on crackers, flatbreads, and for an unusual pizza topping. Pairs well with fruits, especially figs, grapes, and quince paste.
CRUMBLY CHEESES
As wonderful as these cheeses are uncooked, they’re excellent for baking because they retain most of their original texture but soften slightly rather than melt, so each bite is packed with flavor. Crumble them with your fingers or a fork and fold them into fillings and doughs or scatter on top of open-faced pastries, pizzas, and flatbreads.
FETA Although many that you’ll find at the supermarket are packed in airtight plastic, I prefer to buy this Greek cheese stored in brine. Traditionally it’s made with sheep’s milk and sometimes goat’s milk, although cow’s milk varieties are now ubiquitous. The flavor is fresh and milky with salty rather than sharp notes, and the texture is dry and crumbly. If the feta you buy is too salty for you, try another variety (some are quite mild) or rinse the cheese and pat it dry before using it.
RICOTTA SALATA White, milky, buttery, and slightly nutty. Usually made from sheep’s milk, this dense cheese is generally more complex and less salty than most feta.
QUESO FRESCO (QUESO BLANCO) The most common cheese in Mexico, this snow-white fresh cheese crumbles into relatively fine, milky-tasting bits. It’s salty but doesn’t have a lot of flavor on its own; add it for texture and color.
BLUE CHEESES There are so many kinds—Gorgonzola (Italy), Roquefort (France), Cabrales (Spain), Stilton (England), and Maytag (America), just to name a few. For many, blue-veined cheeses (which intentionally cultivate harmless but flavorful molds) and their funky pungency are an acquired taste, but I love them. There’s a ton of variation in texture, creaminess, and sharpness, so ask your cheesemonger or taste around. Blue cheese dominates, so it’s especially important to use it—for breads, crackers, or savory shortbread—where you want it to have the spotlight. As prominent as it can be, it pairs beautifully with fruit, like grapes, and jams or marmalades (pages 574–575).
How to Prep Any Vegetable for Savory Baking
Most vegetables need at least a little bit of preparation before they’re scattered over crusts or folded into custards. Here are my favorite ways to prepare most of them for baked recipes. Use your own judgment and taste as a guide and err on the underdone side since the vegetables will soften a little more as your dish bakes. In all cases, cool them slightly before combining with eggs and follow the guidelines in the specific recipe for how much you can get away with adding.
ARTICHOKE HEARTS
Boil, steam, or sauté until tender.
ASPARAGUS OR GREEN BEANS
Use raw if very young or thin; if not, they can be blanched, steamed, sautéed, or roasted.
BEETS
Peel if you like; cut into wedges, then roast until tender.
BELL PEPPERS OR MILD CHILE PEPPERS
Chop, discard seeds, and use raw, roast, or sauté for a minute or two to soften.
BROCCOLI, CAULIFLOWER, OR BROCCOLI RABE
Chop into small florets; discard tough stems or thinly slice them. Roast until the edges turn brown or steam until tender.
BUTTERNUT, ACORN, DELICATA, PUMPKIN, OR OTHER WINTER SQUASH
Peel, cut in half to scoop out seeds and pulp, and cut into cubes, wedges, or chunks. Steam or roast until tender.
CABBAGE (RED OR GREEN), BRUSSELS SPROUTS, OR RADICCHIO
Remove any tough or damaged exterior leaves and trim the tough core. Cut into manageable chunks and roast or sauté until tender but still crisp.
CARROTS OR PARSNIPS
Peel if you like. Steam or roast just until tender but not soft.
CORN
Scrape the kernels from the cob and use raw or steam, roast, or grill whole cobs and then remove the kernels.
DARK LEAFY GREENS (KALE, SPINACH, WATERCRESS, CHARD, AND THE LIKE)
Tender baby greens can be added raw. Otherwise, remove tough stems and use the leaves whole or chopped. Sauté in a bit of olive oil or blanch them (boil for about 1 minute, until tender, then plunge into a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking). Drain off any excess liquid and coarsely chop.
EGGPLANT
Peel if you like and cut into small cubes or slices. Sauté, roast, or grill until tender with no dry spots.
FENNEL
Trim fronds and stalks. Thinly slice the bulb and use raw or cut into wedges and roast until tender and slightly browned in parts.
LEEKS
Thinly slice the white and light green parts only; these get notoriously full of dirt or sand, so rinse them carefully. Sauté until soft.
MUSHROOMS
Remove tough stems. If you like, cut the caps into slices or smaller pieces. Sauté or roast in a little butter or olive oil.
ONIONS OR SHALLOTS
Chop or slice and sauté until soft. To caramelize—which gives a complex, sweet flavor and jammy consistency—continue to cook over low heat, stirring often, until they’re very soft and lightly browned, at least 20 minutes. The longer you let them cook, the sweeter and more “melted” they’ll be.
PEAS
Use raw, steam, or blanch.
POTATOES AND SWEET POTATOES
Peel if you like. Boil or cube and roast until you can easily pierce with a fork.
SUMMER SQUASH AND ZUCCHINI
Cut into thin slices; use raw, steam, sauté, roast, or grill.
TOMATOES
Use raw, chopped fresh tomatoes, preferably seeded, or drained canned tomatoes. If you like, combine with a bit of butter or oil and cook until they’ve thickened and reduced a bit, or roast until the skin is a bit shriveled.