Makes: 4 to 6 servings
Time: About 2 hours
Strudel is a blank slate, as good a vehicle for savory fillings as it for sweet ones (see page 494). Cabbage is classic, as is mushroom (see the variation), each of them a tender foil for their phyllo shell. To keep the phyllo crisp, make sure the filling isn’t too wet; strain out any juices if necessary.
1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Put the cabbage in a 13 × 9-inch baking dish and toss with the paprika and some salt and pepper. Cut 1 stick of the butter into cubes and scatter over the top. Cover the dish with aluminum foil and bake, stirring once or twice and then covering again with the foil, until the cabbage is tender and golden brown, about an hour. Set aside to cool.
2. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Melt the second stick of butter. Keep the phyllo sheets covered with a piece of plastic wrap and a damp towel over the top to prevent them from drying out. Remove 1 sheet of phyllo and place it on the baking sheet. Immediately brush it with melted butter. Place another sheet on top of it and quickly brush it with more butter, then repeat with all the sheets to make a stack.
3. Spoon the cabbage mixture in a line along one long edge of the phyllo; roll it into a log and finish with the seam side down; tuck in the ends of the log.
4. Brush the strudel with more butter and score the top a few times with a sharp knife. Bake for about 30 minutes, until golden brown. Let rest for just a couple minutes, then cut into 2- to 3-inch-thick slices.
CARAWAY CABBAGE STRUDEL Toss the cabbage with 1 tablespoon caraway seeds along with the paprika before baking.
MUSHROOM STRUDEL Substitute 1 pound assorted mushrooms (chopped fairly small) for the cabbage and omit the paprika. Put 3 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium heat. When hot, add a chopped shallot (and a minced garlic clove if you like) and cook until softened; add the mushrooms, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook until tender. Add ¼ cup red wine and cook until it mostly bubbles away; stir in 2 tablespoons cream and a sprinkling of fresh thyme leaves and cook until the mixture thickens a bit, just a minute or 2. Set aside to cool, then proceed as directed.