Whipped Butter

Makes: 12 ounces butter, plus buttermilk

Time: 30 minutes

Homemade butter is a revelation—one of those kitchen miracles that never ceases to amaze. You end up with your own buttermilk as well as butter whose flavor is customized to your recipes or whims. Obviously, the better the cream you start with, the better your butter. This is best enjoyed as a condiment or spread; if you want to use homemade butter in a baking recipe, use the Firmer Butter variation and measure by weight to ensure the proportions stay the same.

1. Place a sieve in a large bowl and cover it with cheesecloth or clean paper towels; set aside.

2. Pour the cream into a large bowl. Whip the cream with an electric mixer on medium-high (using the whisk attachment if you’re using a stand mixer) until it forms stiff peaks. The cream will splatter quite a bit, so you may want to cover the bowl loosely with a towel or plastic wrap while you’re mixing. Continue whipping: The cream will become grainy before a mass of butter begins to form, separating itself from the buttermilk.

3. Pour the buttermilk through the cheesecloth and allow it to strain before dumping the butter into the strainer. Pick up the butter with the cheesecloth and knead and squeeze it to release any excess buttermilk into the bowl. Repeat until you’ve removed as much buttermilk from the butter as you can. Pour the buttermilk into a container and refrigerate for another use.

4. If you like, mix some salt into the butter, then place the butter in a container and store it in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks or in the freezer for several months.

FIRMER BUTTER Once the buttermilk is separated from the butter and stored in the refrigerator, rinse out the bowl and place the butter in it. Fill the bowl with ice water, then push down on the butter to release even more buttermilk; the water will become cloudy. Pour out the ice water and repeat this process until the water remains clear and the butter becomes firm. Store the butter in a jar fitted with a lid or roll it into a log using wax paper or parchment.

CULTURED BUTTER The night before you make the butter, combine the cream with ⅓ cup whole-milk yogurt, at room temperature. Whisk together, then cover the bowl with a clean kitchen towel and set aside in a warm room in your house. The cream is done culturing when it is slightly thickened and foamy and it begins to smell tangy. Refrigerate the cream for an hour before proceeding with Step 2.

10 Add-Ins for Whipped Butter

Compound butter—a fancy name for butter with stuff mixed in—is a sublime treat on homemade breads (pages 389–448), scones and biscuits, quick breads, pancakes, and waffles (pages 98–117). As it melts, its seasoning infuses everything. Mix any of the following into softened butter: