Agia, Miguel, 237
Agrarian Reform, 6, 27, 89-90, 145, 236
altitude, 36, 37, 54, 85; sickness, 60-1, 62
Ambo, 147
Andahuayalas, 209, 226, 227-34, 235
Andes, 14, 54-5, 112, 123, 125-6, 167, 200, 208; approach to, I; between Cajabamba and Huamachuco, 34-8; compared with Himalayas, 48, 61; grandeur of, 22, 45-6, 48, 211; harvests in, 29; snow-peaks, 46-7, 85, 105, 252; see also individual mountains, rivers and towns
Arce, Ruiz de, 256
Atahualpa, 2-4, 10, 92, 174, 237
Ayachucho, 201, 204, 206-7; Battle of, 206; University of, 206
Ayachuco Archaeological-Botanical Project, 1 1 1
Ayala, Felipe Guarnan Poma de, 233
banks, 11, 207, 208, 209, 228-9
Barcapalca, 123
Belaunde, Terry Fernando, 76, 134 birds, 26, 31, 46, 67, 79, 84, 112,239, 245
Bradt, Hilary and George: Backpacking and trekking in Peru and Bolivia, 46, 79n.
bridges, 2, 24, 73, 102, 103, 112, 127, 134, 135, 172-3, 204, 213, 221, 244; Bridge of San Luis Rey, 250, 253; ‘Huaca-Chaca’, 250, 252-3
British Agricultural Mission, 6, 13 buses, 137-8, 183, 192-3, 212-13
Cajamarca, 1, 2, 4-5, 13, 21, 71, 138, 165, 210
Calderbank, George and Amelia, 5, 6, 9, 11
Camino Real, 29, 30, 31, 34, 36, 37, 161, 227, 245, 247, 248, 250, 263
campesinos, 1, 6, 11, 19, 30-1, 39, 49-53, 63, 113-15, 121, 140, 145, 158, 210, 246; aloofness of, 45, 116, 141; drinking hours, 168; fiesta and, 98, 99, 108; funerals, 183, 232; hostility of, 58-9; incuriosity of, 26, 48; mistrust of gringoes, 231; religion of, 230; steal equipment, 217-19; steal Juana, 258-61
camp sites, 18, 21, 25-6, 32, 44, 49-52, 74, 78-9, 113, 122-3, 140, 147, 153-4, 158, 163-4, 185-6, 205, 211, 212, 222, 223, 247
Chancas, 226
Chavez, Captain Francisco de, 75 Chavín, 64, 69, 105, 112, 113, 115-21, 207
Chiclayo, 1
children, 71, 88, 90, 93, 110, 129-30, 131, 207
Chinceros, 223
Chumbivilca, 252
Churcampa, 202
churches, 7, 36, 39, 82–3, 99, 108, 145, 168, 232, 236
coca, 110–12, 137, 140, 183, 194–5
Conchucos, 74, 78, 80, 81–4, 94, 101, 102, 109
conquistadores, 35, 165–6, 175, 234, 256, 264, 265
co-operative farms, 6–7, 16, 27, 187, 220, 224, 231, 236, 239 243,
Cordillera Blanca, 52, 94, 104, 112, 123
Cuzco, 5, 71, 148, 165, 174, 184, 210, 226, 235, 237, 248, 257, 263–9
earthquakes, 52, 56, 87, 88, 102, 108, 114
eating houses, 2–3, 38–9, 72, 83–4, 87, 89, 116, 138, 143, 148, 150, 155, 166, 202, 204, 223, 233, 241, 254
famine, 29
Fernandez, Federico, 7, 11–12, 13
fiestas, 9, 10, 97–101, 108–9, 115
flora, 22–3, 46, 105, 196: cacti, 46, 79, 81, 95, 196, 203; Puya raimondi, 121–2; rima–rima, 122
food, 66, 76–7, 81, 82, 87, 89, 116, 129, 141, 143, 145, 148–9, 168, 177–8, 233, 244
haciendas, 6–7, 27, 144, 145, 239, 240
Hagen, Victor von, 252
Hemmings, John: The Conquest of the Incas, 10, 41, 111, 156, 233, 238, 256–7, 267
hotels: in Conchucos, 81–2, 84; Gran Hotel Plaza, Cajamarca, 2; Gran Hotel, Andahualyas, 228; Hotel Conquistador, Cuzco, 265–6, 268; Hotel de Sol, Huari, 108–9; Hotel Dos de Maio, La Union, 135; Hotel Inca, Chavin, 116; Residencial Plaza, 268; Santa Rosa Hotel, Juaja, 169–70; in Sihuas, 87
Huacrapuquio, 187
Hualhuash, 160
Huamachuco, 29, 37–42, 50, 51, 80, 87
Huamantay, 252
Huanuco, 41, 135, 142, 143, 144, 145–6, 147
Huancayo, 184, 185, 186–7, 204
Huanchal, 166
Huanta, 205
Huaras, 115
Huariaca, 148
Huascaran, 104
Incas, 3, 6, 8, 41, 156–7, 162, 166, 174, 237–8, 252; agricultural system of, 156; Battle of Vilcaconga, 257; Catholic Church and, 156; Chancas and, 226; coca and, 110; Cuzco and, 263, 264, 265; depopulation, 156; ‘Huaca Chaca’ (Holy Bridge), 250, 252; Illa Tupac, 74; in Juaja, 173–4; Pachacuti, 249–50, 251; paths of, 88; Second Inca Rebellion, 74; sodomy and, 75; strategy of, 47; sun–worshippers, 62; tambos for, 85, 225, 249
Indians, 2, 10, 64, 71, 88–9, 97, 106–7, 109, 123, 126, 128–30, 236–8;
Catholic Church and, 27–8, 156, 230, 233; Franz Tamayo and, 110; intelligence of, 106, 110; uncommunicativeness of, 129, 130 insects, 21, 43, 71, 82, 94, 142, 205, 206, 221, 240, 244, 245, 246, 249
Jangya–Cocha, 123
Jayuri, 240
Junin, 152, 153; pampa, 150, 151, 154; Lake, 150, 152
lakes, 67–8, 86, 124, 125, 150, 152
La Union, 105, 121, 131, 134–5
Leon, Pedro de Cieza de, 35, 41, 74, 85, 108, 173, 186, 249, 250
Liberation Church of South America, 40, 98
Limatambo, 254
Lucomos, 249
markets, 19, 21, 160; in Ambo, 147; in Cajamarca, 4; in Huamachuco, 39; in Huanuco, 145; in Huari, 109; in Jauja, 169, 171–2, 177–80; in Pampas, 197; in San Marcos, 20
Mercadillo, Captain Alonso, 162
Massia, Alfonso, 238
mestizos, 4, 10, 39, 49–53, 63–4, 71, 87, 126, 157–8, 204; of Locabamba area, 74; lack of communication, 104; lack of response, 90; defeat Spanish army, 206; taunting by, 187
mines, 47, 56, 63, 64, 148; mining communities, 66, 68–9, 70, 149, 150, 151
Osborne, Harold: Indians of the Andes, 97–8, 110
Pachamamma, 121
Pachas, 135
Pampas, 67, 69, 71–3, 80, 191, 204
Peru, 231, 237; absentee landlords, 27; Communist Party in, 155, 171; criticism of, 114, 155, 159–60, 162–3; government spending, 26; jail in, 231; Junta, 6, 155, 186; lack of nationalistic feeling, 76, 177; rice crop, 4, 101
Pizarro, Francisco, 3–4, 41, 75, 162, 165, 173–4, 227, 241, 254, 264 Pizarro, Hernado, 172, 241
police, 9–10, 17, 66, 105, 116, 136–7, 180, 186, 191, 193, 197–9, 203, 215, 216, 225, 259–61, 262, 264–5, 268
Pomabamba, 90, 91–3, 94, 97–101
Poma, Huaman: Letter to a King, 26, 110, 111, 173
pueblos, 15, 19, 21, 36–7, 73, 152, 160, 202
Pumpuyac, 123
Quechua, 100, 123, 128, 210, 215, 232, 237
Quilcayhuanca, 123
Rachel’s diary, 19, 43, 56–7, 60, 79–82, 139–40
reduras (short cuts), 16, 19, 27, 62–3, 91, 102, 142, 150, 167, 187, 202, 213, 216, 222, 223, 235, 236, 241, 246, 247, 250, 255
Rio (river), Abancay, 244, 245; Apurimac, 248, 250, 251–3, 254; Colorado, 253; Conchucos, 73, 82; Higueras, 143; Huallaga, 143; Huarpa, 204, 205; Mantaro, 202, 203, 204; Maranon, 135; Montaro, 167; Negra, 29, 32; Palca, 155; Pampas, 215, 220, 222; Pomabamba, 91, 96, 102; Pucca, 112; Sihuas, 87, 88; Yurma, 103; 131–2, 133, 221
roads, 54, 134, 146, 227; carreteras, 88, 90, 91, 101, 103, 113, 134, 135, 147, 201, 223, 234, 250, 263; Hualhuash-Tarma road, 160–1; Lima-Pucallpa highway, 134, 135; tracks to mines, 47, 56, 61, 64; Tarma-Jauja road, 161
Roman Catholic church, 27, 96–8, 171, 227, 229–30, 233, 263; in Conchucos, 82–3; Feast of the Immaculate Conception, 229–30; fiesta and, 99–101; Indians and, 27–8, 156, 230; Irish priests, 228, 231, 232; native Peruvian clergy, 98; seminary, 27
Rondos, 135
Sahuite, 248
Salcantay, 252
Sanagoran, 37
Sancho, Pedro, 235
San Juan de Pampa, 150
San Luis, 104
San Marcos (near Chavin), 115, 119
San Marcos, university of, 155, 162
schools, 7, 51, 64, 76, 207, 236
shops, 15, 17, 24–5, 36–7, 64–5, 71, 75–6, 112, 141, 143, 148, 166, 203, 216, 233
Sihuas, 87
Sociedad Agricola de Interes Social (SAIS), 144
Soto, Hernando de, 256
South American Handbook, 1, 145, 228, 262
Spanish Colonial period, 26, 1 1 1
stairways, rock, 85, 86, 133, 214, 223
Tamayo, Franz, 110
Tingo Paccha, 167
Tongos, 187, 188, 191, 194, 197, 198–9
Tordesillas, Antonio de Herrea, 253
Trujillo, 29, 51, 64, 71, 74, 100, 145
Tupac, Illa, 74
Vega, Garcilaso de la, 252–3, 263
veterinarios, 116, 118–19, 175–6, 182, 184
Walton, Carolyn and John, 148
Zarate, Augustin de, 47