TOP REASONS TO GO
The Scene: The island is active, sexy, hedonistic, and hip, and the human scenery is as beautiful as the sparkling-blue sea vistas.
Super Style: St. Barth continues to change and evolve, becoming ever more chic.
Great Dining: New restaurants tempt gourmets and gourmands.
Shopping Galore: If you’re a shopper, you’ll find bliss stalking the latest in French clothes and accessories with prices up to 30% less than in the States.
Getting Out on the Water: Windsurfing, kitesurfing, and other water sports make going to the beach more than just a lounging experience.
A mere 8 square miles (21 square km), St. Barth is a hilly island, with many sheltered inlets and picturesque, quiet beaches. The town of Gustavia wraps itself around a modern harbor lined with everything from size-matters megayachts to rustic fishing boats to sailboats of all descriptions. Red-roof villas dot the hillsides, and glass-front shops line the streets. Beach surf runs the gamut from kiddie-pool calm to serious-surfer dangerous, beaches from deserted to packed. The cuisine is tops in the Caribbean, and almost everything is tidy, stylish, and up-to-date. French savoir vivre prevails.
Christopher Columbus came to the island—called “Ouanalao” by its native Caribs—in 1493; he named it for his brother Bartolomé. The first French colonists arrived in 1648, drawn by its location on the West Indian Trade Route, but they were wiped out by the Caribs, who dominated the area. Another small group from Normandy and Brittany arrived in 1694. This time the settlers prospered—with the help of French buccaneers, who took advantage of the island’s strategic location and protected harbor. In 1784 the French traded the island to King Gustav III of Sweden in exchange for port rights in Göteborg. The king dubbed the capital Gustavia, laid out and paved streets, built three forts, and turned the community into a prosperous free port. The island thrived as a shipping and commercial center until the 19th century, when earthquakes, fires, and hurricanes brought financial ruin. Many residents fled to newer lands of opportunity, and Oscar II of Sweden returned the island to France. After briefly considering selling it to America, the French took possession of St. Barthélemy again on August 10, 1877.
Today the island is a free port, and in 2007 it became a Collectivité, a French-administered overseas territory. Arid, hilly, and rocky, St. Barth was unsuited to sugar production and thus never developed an extensive slave base. Some of the residents are descendants of the tough Norman and Breton settlers of three centuries ago, but you are more likely to encounter attractive French twenty- and thirtysomethings from Normandy and Provence, who are friendly, English-speaking, and here for the sunny lifestyle.
AIR TRAVEL
Because of its tiny, hillside runway, there are no direct major-airline flights to St. Barth. Most North Americans fly first into St. Maarten’s Princess Juliana International SXM Airport, from which the island is a quick 12 minutes by air. Winair has frequent flights from St. Maarten every day. Through Winair’s affiliation with major airlines, you can check your luggage from your home airport through to St. Barth under certain circumstances. Tradewind Aviation has regularly scheduled service from San Juan and also does VIP charters. Anguilla Air Services and St. Barth Commuter have scheduled flights and also do charters. Leave ample time between your scheduled flight and your connection in St. Maarten: 90 minutes is the minimum recommended (and be aware that luggage frequently doesn’t make the trip; your hotel or villa-rental company may be able to send someone to retrieve it). It’s a good idea to pack a change of clothes, required medicines, and a bathing suit in your carry-on—or better yet, pack very light and don’t check baggage at all.
AIRPORTS Gustaf III Airport (SBH). St. Jean Rd., St-Jean 0590/27–75–81.
AIRLINES St. Barth Commuter. 0590/27–54–54 www.stbarthcommuter.com. Tradewind Aviation. 203/267–3305 www.flytradewind.com. Trans Anguilla Airways. 264/498–5922 www.transanguilla.com. Winair. 0590/27–61–01, 866/466–0410 www.fly-winair.com.
BOAT AND FERRY TRAVEL
St. Barth can be reached via ferry service from St. Maarten/St. Martin to Quai de la République in Gustavia. Voyager offers several daily round-trips for about $110 per person from Marigot. Great Bay Express has multiple round-trips daily from the Dutch side of St. Maarten for roughly €90 if reserved in advance, €95 for same-day tickets, and €56 each way for a same-day round-trip. Private boat charters are also available, but they are very expensive; Master Ski Pilou offers transfers from St. Maarten.
CONTACTS Great Bay Express. Quai Gustavia, Gustavia 721/520–5015 www.greatbayferry.com. Master Ski Pilou. 0590/27–91–79 www.masterski-pilou.com. Voyager. 0590/87–10–68 www.voy12.com.
CAR TRAVEL
Roads are sometimes unmarked, so get a map and look for signs, nailed to posts at all crossroads, pointing to a destination. Roads are narrow and sometimes very steep, but have been improved; even so, check the brakes and low gears before driving away from the rental office. Maximum speed is 30 mph (50 kph). Driving is on the right, as in the United States and Europe. Parking is an additional challenge. There are two gas stations on the island, one near the airport and one in Lorient. They aren’t open after 5 pm or on Sunday, and pumps at the station near the airport now accept chip-and-pin credit cards. Considering the short distances, a full tank should last most of a week. 
TIP → Ask your car rental company about Blue Parking Tags, which give you 1½ hours of parking for about €30. They’re worth every penny.
Car Rentals: You must have a valid driver’s license and be 25 or older to rent, and in high season there may be a three-day minimum. During peak periods, such as Christmas week and February, arrange for your car rental ahead of time. Rental agencies operate out of Gustaf III Airport; some will bring your car to your hotel. Alternately, when you make your hotel reservation, ask if the hotel has its own cars available to rent; some hotels provide 24-hour emergency road service—something most rental companies don’t. Expect to pay at least $55 per day, and note the company will usually hold about $500 until the car is returned. TIP → For a green alternative, consider renting an electric car. They’re available for about $85 per day.
CONTACTS Avis. 0590/27–66–30 www.avis-sbh.com. Budget. 0590/27–66–30 www.st-barths.com/budget. Cool Rental. 0590/27–52–58 www.cool-rental.com. Europcar. 0590/29–41–86 www.europcar-stbarth.com. Gumbs. 0590/27–75–32 www.gumbs-car-rental.com. Hertz. 0590/52–34–03 www.hertzstbarth.com. Turbé. 0590/27–71–42 www.turbe-car-rental.com.
MOPED, SCOOTER, AND BIKE TRAVEL
Several companies rent motorbikes, scooters, mopeds, ATVs, and mountain bikes. Motorbikes go for about $30 per day and require a $100 deposit. ATV rental starts at $40 per day. Helmets are required. Scooter and motorbike rental places are mostly along rue de France in Gustavia and around the airport in St-Jean. If you have not driven an ATV or “quad” before, St. Barth may not be the best place to try it out. The roads, though not jammed with traffic, are quite narrow, and navigating the hilly terrain can be quite a challenge.
CONTACTS Barthloc Rental. Rue de France, Gustavia 0590/27–52–81 www.barthloc.com. Chez Béranger. 21 rue du général de Gaulle, Gustavia 0590/27–89–00 www.beranger-rental.com.
TAXI TRAVEL
Taxis are expensive and not particularly easy to arrange, especially in the evening. There’s a taxi station at the airport and another at the ferry dock in Gustavia; from elsewhere you must contact a dispatcher in Gustavia or St-Jean. Fares are regulated by the Collectivity, and drivers accept both dollars and euros. If you go out to dinner by taxi, let the restaurant know if you will need a taxi at the end of the meal, and they will call one for you.
CONTACTS Taxis. 0590/52–40–40, 0590/27–75–81. Taxi Prestige. 0590/27–70–57.
With practice, negotiating St. Barth’s narrow, steep roads soon becomes fun. Infrastructure upgrades and small, responsive rental cars have improved driving. Free maps are everywhere, and roads are smooth and well marked. The tourist office has annotated maps with walking tours that highlight sights of interest.
There is a beach in St. Barth to suit every taste. Wild surf, complete privacy in nature, a dreamy white-sand strand, and a spot at a chic beach club close to shopping and restaurants—they’re all within a 20-minute drive.
There are many anses (coves) and nearly 20 plages (beaches) scattered around the island, each with a distinct personality; all are open to the public, even if they front a tony resort. Because of the number of beaches, even in high season you can find a nearly empty one, despite St. Barth’s tiny size. That’s not to say that all beaches are equally good or even equally suitable for swimming, but each has something to offer. Unless you are having lunch at a beachfront restaurant with lounging areas set aside for patrons, you should bring an umbrella, beach mat, and drinking water (all of which are easily obtainable all over the island). Topless sunbathing is common, but nudism is supposedly forbidden—although both Grande Saline and Gouverneur are de facto nude beaches, albeit less than in the past. Shade is scarce.
Dining on St. Barth compares favorably to almost anywhere in the world. Varied and exquisite cuisine, a French flair in the decor, sensational wine, and attentive service make for a wonderful epicurean experience in almost any of the more than 80 restaurants. On most menus, freshly caught local seafood mingles on the plate with top-quality provisions that arrive regularly from Paris. Interesting selections on the Cartes de Vins are no surprise, but don’t miss the sophisticated cocktails whipped up by island bartenders. They are worlds away from cliché Caribbean rum punches with paper umbrellas. The signature drink of St. Barth is called “’ti punch,” a rum concoction similar to a Brazilian caipirinha. It’s also fun to sit at a bar and ask the attractive bartender for his or her own signature cocktail.
Most restaurants offer a chalkboard of daily specials, usually a good bet. But even the pickiest eaters will find something on every menu. Some level of compliance will be paid to dietary restrictions, especially if explained in French; just be aware that French people generally let the chef work his or her magic. Vegetarians will find many options on every menu. Expect meals to be costly, but you can dine superbly and somewhat economically if you limit pricey cocktails, watch wine selections, share appetizers or desserts, and pick up snacks and picnics from one of the well-stocked markets. Or you can follow the locals to small crêperies, cafés, sandwich shops, and pizzerias in the main shopping areas. Ti creux means “snack” or “small bite.”
Lavish publications feature restaurant menus and contacts. Ask at your hotel or look on the racks at the airport. Reservations are strongly recommended and, in high season, essential. Lots of restaurants now accept reservations on their website or by email. Check social media. Except during the Christmas–New Year’s season it’s not usually necessary to book far in advance. A day’s—or even a few hours’—notice is usually sufficient. At the end of the meal, as in France, you must request the bill. Until you do, you can feel free to linger at the table and enjoy the complimentary vanilla rum that’s likely to appear.
Check restaurant bills carefully. A service compris (service charge) is always added by law, but you should leave the server 5% to 10% extra in cash. You’ll usually come out ahead if you charge restaurant meals on a credit card in euros instead of paying with American currency, as your credit card might offer a better exchange rate than the restaurant (unless your credit card adds a conversion surcharge). Many restaurants serve locally caught langouste (lobster); priced by weight. It’s usually the most expensive item on a menu and, depending on its size and the restaurant, will range in price from $40 to $60 or more. In menu prices below, lobster has been left out of the range.
What to Wear: A bathing suit and gauzy top or shift is acceptable at beachside lunch spots, but not really in Gustavia. Jackets are never required and are rarely worn by men, but most people do dress fashionably for dinner. St. Barth is for fashionistas; women wear whatever is hip, current, and sexy. You can’t go wrong in a tank dress or a sexy top with white jeans, high sandals, and flashy accessories. The sky is the limit for high fashion at nightclubs and lounges in high season, when you might (correctly) think everyone in sight is a model. Leave some space in your suitcase; you can buy the perfect outfit here on the island. Nice shorts (not beachy ones) at the dinner table may label a man Américain, but many locals have adopted the habit and nobody cares much. Wear them with a pastel shirt to really fit in (never tucked in). Pack a light sweater or shawl for the occasional breezy night.
There’s no denying that hotel rooms and villas on St. Barth carry high prices. You’re paying primarily for the privilege of staying on the island, and even at $800 a night the bedrooms tend to be small. Still, if you’re flexible—in terms of timing and in your choice of lodgings—you can enjoy a holiday in St. Barth and still afford to send the kids to college.
The most expensive season falls during the holidays (mid-December to early January), when hotels are booked far in advance, may require a 10- or 14-day stay, and can be double the high-season rates. A 5% government tourism tax on room prices (excluding breakfast) is in effect; be sure to ask if it is included in your room rate or added on.
When it comes to booking a hotel on St. Barth, the reservation manager can be your best ally. Rooms within a property can vary greatly. It’s well worth the price of a phone call or the time invested in emails to make a personal connection, which can lead to a room that meets your needs or preferences. Details of accessibility, views, recent redecorating, meal options, and special package rates are topics open for discussion. Quoted hotel rates are per room, not per person, and include service charges and often airport transfers. Bargain rates found on Internet booking sites can sometimes yield unpleasant surprises in terms of the actual room you get. Consider contacting the hotel and mentioning the rate you found. Often they will match it, and you’ll end up with a better room.
Small luxury hotels: The largest hotel on the island has about 70 rooms, but the majority are stratospherically expensive.
Villas: About half the accommodations on St. Barth are in private villas.
Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.
On St. Barth the term villa describes anything from a small cottage to a luxurious, modern estate. Today almost half of St. Barth’s accommodations are in villas, a great option, especially if traveling with friends or family. Even more advantageous to Americans, villa rates are usually quoted in dollars, thus bypassing unfavorable euro fluctuations. Most villas have a small private swimming pool and maid service daily except Sunday. They are well furnished with linens, kitchen utensils, and such electronic necessities as smart-phone docks, TV, and Internet. Weekly in-season rates range from $1,400+ to “oh-my-gosh.” Most villa-rental companies are based in the United States and have extensive websites that enable you to see pictures or panoramic videos of the place you’re considering; their local offices oversee maintenance and housekeeping and provide concierge services. Just be aware that there are few beachfront villas, so if you have your heart set on “toes in the sand” and a cute waiter delivering your Kir Royale, stick with the hotels or villas operated by hotel properties.
Eden Rock Villa Rental
Eden Rock Villa Rental manages 80 super-luxe villas and cottages. Provided with each are butlers, chefs, and concierge services, giving you the privacy of a villa but the service of a luxury hotel. Prices are per night and range from several hundreds dollars to several thousand, but the pricier villas have more bedrooms enabling visitors to vacation with friends and share the cost. 0590/27–14–94 www.edenrockvillarental.com.
Marla
This local St. Barth villa-rental company represents more than 100 villas, many of which are not listed with other companies. 18 rue du Roi Oscar II, Gustavia 0590/27–62–02 www.marlavillas.com.
St. Barth Properties, Inc.
Owned by American Peg Walsh, a regular on St. Barth since 1986, this company represents more than 120 properties. The excellent website offers virtual tours of most of the villas and even details on availability. Gustavia 508/528–7727, 800/421–3396 www.stbarth.com.
Wimco
Based in Rhode Island, Wimco oversees bookings for more than 230 properties, at $2,000–$10,000 a week for two- and three-bedroom villas and from $7,000 for larger villas. The website, which occasionally lists last-minute specials, has interactive floor plans, and a catalog is available by mail. The company can arrange for babysitters, massages, chefs, and other in-villa services as well as private air charters. 800/932–3222 www.wimco.com.
Most of the nightlife in St. Barth is centered in Gustavia, though there are a few places to go outside of town. “In” clubs change from season to season, so you might ask around for the hot spot of the moment, but none really get going until about midnight. Theme parties are the current trend. Check the daily St. Barth News or Le Journal de Saint-Barth for details. A late (10 pm or later) reservation at one of the club–restaurants will eventually become a front-row seat at a party.
St. Barth is a duty-free port, and its sophisticated visitors find shopping in its 200-plus boutiques a delight, especially for beachwear, accessories, jewelry, and casual wear. It’s no overstatement to say that shopping for fashionable clothing, jewels, and designer accessories is better in St. Barth than anywhere else in the Caribbean. New shops open all the time, so there’s always something to discover. Some stores close from noon to 3, but they are open until 7 pm. Many are closed on Sunday. A popular afternoon pastime is strolling the two major shopping areas in Gustavia and St-Jean. While high fashion is as pricey here as everywhere, French brands sell for up to 30% less than in the U.S.
For locally made art and handicrafts, the tourist office can provide information and arrange visits to studios of island artists, including Christian Bretoneiche, Robert Danet, Nathalie Daniel, Patricia Guyot, Rose Lemen, Aline de Lurin, and Marion Vinot. Gustavia, La Villa Créole, and the larger hotels have a few good gallery/craft boutiques.
There’s relatively little crime on St. Barth. Visitors can travel anywhere on the island with confidence. Most hotel rooms have safes for your valuables. As anywhere, don’t tempt loss by leaving cameras, laptops, or jewelry out in plain sight in your hotel room or villa or in your car or car trunk. Also, don’t walk barefoot at night: there are venomous centipedes that can inflict a remarkably painful sting. If you ask residents, they will tell you that they drink only bottled water, although most cook or make coffee with tap water.
Dengue, chikungunya, and zika have all been reported throughout the Caribbean. We recommend that you protect yourself from these mosquito-borne illnesses by keeping your skin covered and/or wearing mosquito repellent. The mosquitoes that transmit these viruses are as active by day as they are by night. Small hand-held mosquito zappers are available in some supermarkets.
CONTACT Office du Tourisme. Quai Général de Gaulle, Gustavia 0590/27–87–27 www.saintbarth-tourisme.com.
You can easily explore all of Gustavia during a two-hour stroll. Some shops close from noon to 3 or 4, so plan lunch accordingly, but stores stay open past 7 in the evening. Parking in Gustavia is a challenge, especially during vacation times. A good spot to park is rue de la République, alongside the catamarans, yachts, and sailboats.
Sights
Le Musée Territorial, Wall House
MUSEUM | FAMILY | On the far side of the harbor known as La Pointe, the charming Municipal Museum on the first floor of the restored Wall House has watercolors, portraits, photographs, traditional costumes, and historic documents detailing the island’s history over many hundreds of years, as well as displays of the island’s flowers, plants, and marine life. There are also changing contemporary art exhibitions. It’s a must-stop on your St. Barth visit, and it’s free. La Pointe, Gustavia 0590/29–71–55 visitersaintbarthelemy.com/musee-territorial-de-gustavia Free.
Le Petit Collectionneur
MUSEUM | Encouraged by family and friends, André Berry opened this private museum in his home to showcase his lifelong passion for collecting fascinating objects such as 18th-century English pipes and the first phonograph to come to the island. Today there are more than 1,000 pieces here, ranging from cannon balls to coins that are hundreds of years old. Berry will happily show you his treasures. La Pointe, Gustavia €2.
Shell Beach
BEACH—SIGHT | Because of its rather sheltered southward-facing location on the coast south of downtown Gustavia, Shell Beach sees high numbers of shells washing ashore. Despite that, the unspoken rule here is “Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints.” A taxi will be happy to take you here, but for most people it’s a relatively easy walk.
For long stretches of powder-soft pale sand choose La Saline, Gouverneur, or Flamands. For seclusion in nature, pick the tawny grains of Corossol. But the most remarkable beach on the island, Shell Beach, is right in Gustavia and hardly has sand at all! Millions of tiny pink shells wash ashore in drifts, thanks to an unusual confluence of ocean currents, sea-life beds, and hurricane action.
$$$$ | MODERN FRENCH | Watch the yachts on Gustavia harbor from the terrace of this sophisticated St-Tropez–inspired restaurant while enjoying cocktails and French and Mediterranean cuisine. Fans of sister establishments in New York, Dubai, London, and elsewhere will recognize the friendly service, lively atmosphere, and great music provided by resident DJs. Known for: haute cuisine in an elegant harborside location; late-night partying; chic crowd. Average main: €34 Rue Samuel Fahlberg, Gustavia 0590/27–51–51 www.bistrotbagatelle.com Closed Sun. No lunch.
Bonito
$$$$ | LATIN AMERICAN | Combining cuisines from France, Peru, and all over the Americas, Bonito delivers a spectrum of artistically assembled flavors, textures, and aromas that you’d find challenging to locate elsewhere. Located on a hill overlooking Gustavia harbor, the restaurant indulges you with big white canvas couches for lounging, in the center; tables around the sides; an open kitchen; and three bar areas. Known for: caring owners; artistically presented dishes; elegance. Average main: €45 Rue Lubin Brin, Gustavia 0590/27–96–96 www.ilovebonito.com Closed Wed. and late Aug.–early Nov. No lunch.
Eddy’s Ghetto
$$$ | FRENCH | By local standards, dinner in the pretty, open-air, tropical garden here is reasonably priced. The cooking is French and Creole, and everything is fresh and delicious. Known for: beautiful tropical gardens; attentive service regardless of how busy they are; authentic French and local dishes. Average main: €24 12 rue Samuel Fahlberg, Gustavia 0590/27–54–17 Closed Sun. and Sept. and Oct. No lunch.
La Guérite
$$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | This stylish Greek-influenced restaurant, a sister of a well-beloved Cannes hot spot, is at the far side of Gustavia Harbor. The room is beautiful, overlooking the yachts; the service helpful and friendly; and the food is fresh, tasty, healthy, and well prepared, featuring many locally caught types of seafood. Known for: fish or veal carpaccios; wahoo, sea bass, mahimahi, tuna, and shrimp entrées; Black Angus rib eye. Average main: €33 La Pointe, Gustavia 0590/88–44–42 www.laguerite-sbh.com.
Le Repaire
$$ | BRASSERIE | FAMILY | Overlooking the harbor, this friendly classic French brasserie is busy from its 7 am opening to its late-night closing. The flexible hours are great if you arrive on the island midafternoon and need a substantial snack. Known for: St. Barth’s only early breakfast restaurant; reliable any time of day; well-prepared, simple food. Average main: €19 Rue de la République, Gustavia 0590/27–72–48 Closed Sun.
L’Isola
$$$$ | ITALIAN | The chic sister of Santa Monica, California’s Via Veneto packs in happy guests for classic Italian dishes, dozens of house-made pasta dishes, prime meats, and a huge, well-chosen wine list. Restaurateur Fabrizio Bianconi wants it to feel like a big Italian party, and with all the celebrating in this pretty and romantic room, he has certainly succeeded. Known for: house-made pasta; festive atmosphere; the daily catch. Average main: €38 33 rue du Roi Oscar II, Gustavia 0590/51–00–05 www.lisolastbarth.com Closed Sept. and Oct. No lunch.
L’Isoletta
$$$ | PIZZA | This casual Roman-style pizzeria run by the popular L’Isola restaurant is a lively, chic lounge-style gastropub serving delicious thin-crust pizzas by the slice or the meter. There are even dessert pizzas, and excellent tiramisu. Known for: meter-long pizzas; lively atmosphere; wait times at peak hours. Average main: €30 Rue du Roi Oscar II, Gustavia 0590/52–02–02.
Maya’s
$$$$ | CARIBBEAN | New Englander Randy Gurley and his wife, Maya (a French-born chef), provide returning guests with a warm welcome and a very pleasant, albeit expensive, dinner on their cheerful deck overlooking Gustavia Harbor. A market-inspired menu of good, simply prepared and garnished dishes changes according to availability, one reason for the restaurant’s ongoing popularity. Known for: friendly, attentive staff; great quality food; well worth the effort to find it. Average main: €39 Public, Gustavia 0590/27–75–73 www.mayas-stbarth.com Closed Sun. No lunch.
Orega
$$$$ | JAPANESE FUSION | One of St. Barth’s very best, this Franco-Japanese fusion restaurant draws legions of admirers for its top-notch sushi and fish, imported directly from sushi markets in Tokyo, New York, and Paris. The pretty room in which it’s served is decorated in natural woods, neutral linen, and attractive art. Known for: extraordinary sushi and fish; outstanding service; Franco-Japanese fusions like green tea crème brûlée. Average main: €41 13 rue Samuel Fahlberg, Gustavia 0590/52–45–31 www.oregarestaurant.com Closed Tues.
Nightlife
Bar de l’Oubli
BARS/PUBS | This landmark, where locals and visitors mingle over drinks, is a good breakfast option, too (cash only). The service can be slow, though, so it’s best if you’re not in a hurry. Rue du Roi Oscar II, Gustavia 0590/27–70–06 www.bardeloubli.com.
Le Repaire
BARS/PUBS | This restaurant lures a crowd for cocktail hour and its pool table. It’s great for dinner with a side of people-watching. Rue de la République, Gustavia 0590/27–72–48.
Le Sélect
BARS/PUBS | Quite possibly the inspiration for Jimmy Buffett’s “Cheeseburger in Paradise,” St. Barth’s original hangout has been around since 1949. In the boisterous garden, the barefoot boating set gathers for a cold Carib beer at lower-than-usual prices while listening to a local band or DJ. And yes, you can grab a legendary “Cheeseburger in Paradise” here and not get indigestion when you see the surprisingly modest bill. Rue du Centenaire, Gustavia 0590/27–86–87.
In Gustavia, boutiques pack the three major shopping streets. Quai de la République, which is right on the harbor, rivals New York’s Madison Avenue or Paris’s avenue Montaigne for high-end designer retail, including shops for Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, Cartier, Chopard, Erès, and Hermès. These shops often carry items that are not available in the United States. The elegant Carré d’Or plaza and the adjacent Coeur Vendome are great fun to explore. Shops are also clustered in La Savane Commercial Center (across from the airport), La Villa Créole (in St-Jean), and Espace Neptune (on the road to Lorient). It’s worth working your way from one end to the other at these shopping complexes—just to see or, perhaps, be seen. Boutiques in all three areas carry the latest in French and Italian sportswear, charming children’s togs, and some haute couture. Bargains may be tough to come by, but you might be able to snag that Birkin that has a long waiting list stateside, and in any case, you’ll have a lot of fun hunting around.
BOOKS
La Case Aux Livres
BOOKS/STATIONERY | This full-service bookstore and newsstand has hundreds of English titles for adults and kids. Its blog lists author appearances, which may well be worth a stop if you’re around. 9 rue de la République, Gustavia 0590/27–15–88 www.lacaseauxlivres.com.
CLOTHING
Boutique Lacoste
CLOTHING | This store has a huge selection of the once-again-chic alligator-logo wear for men, women, and kids. Rue du Bord de Mer, Gustavia 0590/27–66–90.
Hermès
CLOTHING | This independently owned franchise (closed September and October) has prices slightly below those in the States, a welcome notion among the sky-high prices here. Rue de la République, Gustavia 0590/27–66–15.
Kokon
CLOTHING | This boutique offers a nicely edited mix of designs for on-island or off, including the bo’em, Lotty B. Mustique, and Day Birger lines, and cute shoes to go with them by Heidi Klum for Birkenstock. Rue Samuel Fahlberg, Gustavia 0590/29–74–48.
Linen
CLOTHING | This shop offers tailored linen shirts for men in a rainbow of soft colors and soft slip-on driving mocs in classic styles. Rue Lafayette, Gustavia 0590/27–54–26 www.linensbh.com.
Lolita Jaca
CLOTHING | This store has trendy, tailored sportswear and floaty silk charmeuse and cotton gauze tunics perfect for the beach. Le Carré d’Or, Gustavia 0590/27–59–98 www.lolitajaca.com.
Mademoiselle Hortense
CLOTHING | Charming tops and dresses for the young and young at heart in pretty Liberty prints are made on the island. Great crafty bracelets and necklaces to accent your new styles are also here. Rue de la République, Gustavia 0590/27–13–29.
Marina St. Barth
CLOTHING | The trendy, sexy resort wear here, worn by the young and the beautiful, ranges from floaty beachwear to Havaianas. Lines include Ondade and Façonnable, and there are unusual ponchos by Lotus London, high-fashion T-shirts by Eleven Paris, and elegant silk tunics by Jodé. Rue du Roi Oscar II, Gustavia 0590/29–37–30 www.marina-stbarth.com.
Pati de St Barth
CLOTHING | This is the largest of the three shops that stock the chic, locally made T-shirts, totes, and beach wraps that have become the de facto logo of St. Barth. The newest styles have hand-done graffiti-style lettering. The shop also has some handicrafts and other giftable items and great sandals. Rue du Bord de Mer, Gustavia 0590/29–78–04 www.patidestbarth.com.
Poupette St. Barth
CLOTHING | All the brilliant color-crinkle silk, chiffon batik, and embroidered peasant skirts and tops are designed by the owner. There also are great belts and beaded bracelets. Rue de la République, Gustavia 0590/27–55–78 www.poupettestbarth.com.
Saint-Barth Stock Exchange
CLOTHING | On the far side of Gustavia Harbor, the island’s consignment and discount shop is a blast to explore. La Pointe, Gustavia 0590/27–68–12.
Vanita Rosa
CLOTHING | This store showcases beautiful lace and linen sundresses, peasant tops, plus bikinis, poncho/kaftans, accessories galore, and very cool designer vintage. Rue du Roi Oscar II, Gustavia 0590/52–43–25 www.vanitarosa.com.
Victoire
CLOTHING | Classic, well-made sportswear in luxurious fabrics and great colors has a French twist on preppy that plays as well in Nantucket and Greenwich as it does on St. Barth. A small sidewalk café has Wi-Fi and terrific macarons. Rue du Général de Gaulle, Gustavia 0590/29–84–60 www.victoire.shop/en/boutique/saint-barth-gustavia.
FOODSTUFFS
A.M.C
FOOD/CANDY | This supermarket is a bit older than Marché U in St-Jean but can supply nearly anything you might need. It’s closed Sunday. Quai de la République, Gustavia.
HOME FURNISHINGS
French Indies Design
HOUSEHOLD ITEMS/FURNITURE | This beautiful shop on the far side of Gustavia Harbor is the brainchild of Karine Bruneel, a St. Barth–based architect and interior designer. There are lovely items to accent your home (or yacht) including furniture, textiles, glassware, and unusual decorative baskets, candles, and pottery. Maison Suédoise, Gustavia 0590/29–66–38 www.frenchindiesdesign.fr.
JEWELRY
Fabienne Miot
JEWELRY/ACCESSORIES | Unusual and artistic jewelry features rare stones and cultured pearls, watches, and jewelry. Rue de la République, Gustavia 0590/27–73–13 www.fabiennemiot.com.
Kalinas Perles
JEWELRY/ACCESSORIES | Beautiful freshwater pearls are knotted onto the classic St. Barth–style leather thongs by artist Jeremy Albaledejo, who also showcases other artisans’ works. Tahitian black pearls are featured. 23 rue du Général de Gaulle, Gustavia 0690/65–93–00 www.kalinasperles.com.
LEATHER GOODS AND ACCESSORIES
Human Steps
SHOES/LUGGAGE/LEATHER GOODS | This popular boutique stocks a well-edited selection of chic shoes and leather accessories from names like YSL, Prada, Balenciaga, Miu Miu, and Jimmy Choo. 39 rue de la République, Gustavia 0590/27–93–79 www.human-steps.fr.
LIQUOR AND TOBACCO
La Cave du Port Franc
TOBACCO | This store has a huge selection of wine, especially from France. Rue de la République, Gustavia 0590/27–65–27 www.lacaveduportfranc.com.
Couleurs des Iles 120% Lino
TOBACCO | This shop has many rare varieties of smokables, including Cuban cigars, plus the original Panama hats, and good souvenir T-shirts, too. Head to the back for the stash of rare Puro Vintage. Rue du Général de Gaulle, Gustavia 0590/27–79–20.
M’Bolo
WINE/SPIRITS | Sample infused rums, including lemongrass, ginger, and the island favorite, vanilla, and bring some home in beautiful handblown bottles. Laguiole knives and local spices are sold, too, plus artisan products like homemade jam. Rue du Général de Gaulle, Gustavia 0590/27–90–54 mbolo-rum.com/en.
Over the hills beyond Grand Cul de Sac is this much-photographed coastline. Stone fences crisscross the steep slopes of Morne Vitet, one of many small mountains on St. Barth, along a rocky shore that resembles the rugged coast of Normandy. Nicknamed the “washing machine” because of its turbulent surf, it is not recommended even to expert swimmers because of the strong undertow. TIP → There is a tough but scenic hike around the point. Take the road past Le Toiny hotel to the top to the start of the trail.
Le Toiny
$$$$ | MODERN FRENCH | Hôtel Le Toiny’s dramatic, redesigned, cliffside dining porch showcases nature and gastronomy in equal parts. The food is notable for its innovation and extraordinary presentation, and the warm but consummately professional service sets a high standard. Known for: exquisite views; attention to detail; relaxing setting. Average main: €47 Hôtel Le Toiny, Anse de Toiny 0590/29–88–88 www.letoiny.com Closed Sept.–mid-Oct.
Hotels
Hôtel Le Toiny
$$$$ | HOTEL | Privacy, serenity, and personalized service please international sophisticates, who gravitate to this remote hotel since you never have to leave if you don’t want to. Pros: extremely private; flawless service; environmental awareness. Cons: isolated (at least half an hour’s drive from town); must take a hotel shuttle to reach the beach (though they’re readily available). Rooms from: €1,545 Anse de Toiny 0590/27–88–88 www.letoiny.com Closed Sept.–late Oct. 14 1-bedroom villas, 1 3-bedroom villa Breakfast.
Beaches
Anse à Colombier
BEACH—SIGHT | The beach here is the island’s least accessible, thus the most private; to reach it you must take either a rocky footpath from Petite Anse or brave the 30-minute climb down (and back up) a steep, cactus-bordered trail from the top of the mountain behind the beach. Appropriate footgear is a must, and on the beach, the only shade is a rock cave. But this is a good place to snorkel. Boaters favor this cove for its calm anchorage. Amenities: none. Best for: snorkeling; swimming. Colombier.
Les Bananiers
$$$ | FRENCH | FAMILY | Ask the locals where to eat, and they will surely recommend this casual spot in Colombier, adjacent to a wonderful bakery. The food is classic French (though they’re also well known for pizza), the service is warm, the prices are gentle (a rarity here), and you can eat in or take out. Known for: thin-crust pizza; reasonable prices; a can’t-miss bakery next door. Average main: €23 Rte. de Colombier, Colombier 0590/27–93–48.
Hotels
Le P’tit Morne
$ | B&B/INN | Each of the modestly furnished but clean and freshly decorated, painted mountainside studios has a private balcony with panoramic views of the coastline. Pros: reasonable rates; great area for hiking; helpful management. Cons: rooms are basic; remote location; not on the beach. Rooms from: €204 Colombier 0590/52–95–50 14 rooms Breakfast.
Traces of the island’s French provincial origins are evident in this two-street fishing village with a little rocky beach. Stop for the scenery on the way up to Anse a Colombier; it’s a 10-minute drive from Gustavia.
Beaches
Anse des Flamands
BEACH—SIGHT | This is the most beautiful of the hotel beaches—a roomy strip of silken sand. Come here for lunch and then spend the afternoon sunning, enjoying long beach walks, and swimming in the turquoise water. From the beach, you can take a brisk hike along a paved sidewalk to the top of the now-extinct volcano believed to have given birth to St. Barth. Amenities: food and drink; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; swimming; walking. Anse des Flamands.
La Case de L’Isle
$$$$ | MODERN FRENCH | You can’t top the view or the service at this waterfront restaurant at the renowned Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France, and at night there is no more romantic spot on the island. Lighter versions of traditional French fare are served. Known for: creative preparations; toes-in-the-sand dining; romantic ambience. Average main: €45 Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France, Flamands Beach, Anse des Flamands 0590/27–61–81 www.isle-de-france.com.
La Langouste
$$$ | FRENCH FUSION | This small but friendly beachside restaurant in the pool courtyard of Hôtel Baie des Anges lives up to its name by serving fresh-grilled local lobster—and lobster thermidor—at prices that are somewhat gentler than at most other island venues. Try starters like local squash gratin, beef carpaccio, scallop-and-leek samosas, a warm goat cheese salad, or one of the five soups, including classic Caribbean fish soup and lobster bisque. Known for: pick-your-own lobster from the tank; lobster thermidor; classic French desserts. Average main: €26 Hôtel Baie des Anges, Anse des Flamands 0590/27–63–61 www.hotel-baie-des-anges.com Closed late Aug.–mid-Oct.
Hotels
Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France
$$$$ | RESORT | Nestled along a pristine white-sand beach, in tropical gardens, or on a hillside, the spacious rooms, suites, and villas of this intimate, casual, and refined resort are private and luxurious. Pros: prime beach location; excellent restaurant; great spa. Cons: car needed to get around; pricey, like everything on the island. Rooms from: €935 B.P. 612 Baie des Flamands, Anse des Flamands 0590/27–61–81 www.chevalblanc.com Closed Sept.–mid-Oct. 40 units Breakfast.
Hôtel Baie des Anges
$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | Everyone is treated like family at this casual retreat with 10 clean, spacious units, two of which are completely renovated, modern two-bedroom oceanfront suites, one with a Jacuzzi. Pros: on St. Barth’s longest beach; family-friendly; excellent value. Cons: a bit remote from town, so you’ll need a car; not super fancy; the boutique is good but not likely to cover all your shopping needs. Rooms from: €300 Anse des Flamands 0590/27–63–61 www.hotel-baie-des-anges.com Closed Sept. 10 rooms No meals.
Beaches
Anse du Gouverneur
BEACH—SIGHT | FAMILY | Because it’s so secluded, this beach continues to be a popular place for nude sunbathing. Truly beautiful, it has blissful swimming and views of St. Kitts, Saba, and St. Eustatius. Venture here at the end of the day and watch the sun set behind the hills. The road here from Gustavia also offers spectacular vistas. Legend has it that pirates’ treasure is buried in the vicinity. There are no restaurants, toilets, or other services here, so plan accordingly. Amenities: parking (no fee). Best for: nudists; sunset; swimming; walking. Le Gouverneur.
Anse de Grand Cul de Sac
BEACH—SIGHT | FAMILY | The shallow, reef-protected beach is nice for small children, fly-fishermen, kayakers, and windsurfers—and for the amusing frigate birds that dive-bomb the water fishing for their lunch. You needn’t do your own fishing; you can have a wonderful lunch at one of the excellent restaurants nearby and use their lounge chairs for the afternoon. You may see some turtles in the shallow water. After storms the water may be a bit murky. Amenities: food and drink; parking (no fee); toilets; water sports. Best for: swimming; walking. Grand Cul de Sac.
Restaurants
Bartolomeo
$$$$ | ECLECTIC | FAMILY | Locavores will like the refined cuisine at this pretty restaurant in the gardens of the Guanahani hotel. Influenced by Provence and Italy, beautifully presented dishes use some organic and local products. Known for: local ingredients; beautiful setting; catch-your-own dinner excursion. Average main: €43 Hotel Guanahani, Grand Cul de Sac 0590/27–66–60 Closed Thurs. No lunch.
Hotels
Hotel Les Ondines Sur La Plage
$$$ | RENTAL | FAMILY | Right on the beach, this reasonably priced, intimate gem comprises modern, comfortable apartments with room to spread out. Pros: close to restaurants and water sports; nice pool; airport transfers included. Cons: not a resort; narrow beach; you’ll need a car. Rooms from: €450 Grand Cul de Sac 0590/27–69–64 www.st-barths.com/les-ondines Closed Sept.–mid-Oct. 7 units Breakfast.
Le Sereno
$$$$ | RESORT | Those seeking a restorative, sensuous escape discover nirvana at the quietly elegant, aptly named Le Sereno, set on a beachy cove of turquoise sea, between the island’s highest mountain and the foamy waves. Pros: beach location; super-chic comfort; renovated from top to bottom after Hurricane Irma. Cons: air-conditioning may not extend to bathrooms; likely to spoil you for other places; enables total relaxation. Rooms from: €870 B.P. 19 Grand-Cul-de-Sac, Grand Cul de Sac 0590/29–83–00 www.lesereno.com Closed late Aug.–mid-Oct. 37 units Some meals.
Anse de Grande Saline
BEACH—SIGHT | With its peaceful seclusion and sandy ocean bottom, this is just about everyone’s favorite beach and is great for swimming, too. Without any major development, it’s an ideal Caribbean strand, though there can be a bit of wind at times. In spite of the prohibition, young and old alike go nude. The beach is a 10-minute walk up a rocky dune trail, so wear sneakers or water shoes, and bring a blanket, umbrella, and beach towels. There are several good lunch restaurants near the parking area, but the beach itself is just sand, sea, and sky. The big salt ponds here are no longer in use, and the place looks a little desolate on approach, but don’t despair. Amenities: parking (no fee). Best for: nudists; swimming; walking. Grande Saline.
Restaurants
L’ Esprit
$$$$ | MODERN FRENCH | FAMILY | Renowned chef Jean-Claude Dufour (formerly of Eden Rock) brings innovative dishes to a romantic terrace close to Saline Beach. The menu has lots of variety, from light French dishes with a Provençal twist to interesting salads that have included soba noodles with shrimp and lime to dishes such as roasted pigeon with foie gras, steak, and vegetarian options. Known for: creative menu items; outstanding service; excellent wine list. Average main: €38 Anse de Grande Saline, Grande Saline 0590/52–46–10 Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.
Le Tamarin
$$$$ | INTERNATIONAL | With a beautiful tropical garden that shades the lounge chairs surrounding the palapa of the restaurant, Tamarin is tops for dinner near Grande Saline Beach. The service is attentive and friendly, and the wine list is excellent. Known for: superb outdoor dining; variety of entrées; great service. Average main: €42 Grande Saline, Grande Saline 0590/29–27–74 www.tamarinstbarth.com Closed Mon.
Restaurant La Santa Fé
$$$$ | FRENCH | FAMILY | Perched at the top of the Lurin hills on the way to Gouverneur Beach, this relaxed and scenic restaurant serves panoramic views with both lunch and dinner. The chef comes from Provence and trained at some of its best restaurants before moving to the Caribbean. Known for: incredible views of neighboring islands; beautiful presentation; generous portions. Average main: €34 Rte. de Lurin, Lurin 0590/27–61–04 Closed Tues., Wed., and Sept.–mid-Oct.
Hotels
Salines Garden Cottages
$ | RENTAL | FAMILY | Budget-conscious beach lovers who don’t require a lot of coddling need look no further than these petite garden cottages, a short stroll from St. Barth’s best beach. Pros: only property walkable to Grande Saline Beach; quiet; good restaurants nearby. Cons: far from town; not very private; strict cancellation policy. Rooms from: €220 Grande Saline 0590/51–04–44 www.salinesgarden.com Closed mid-Aug.–mid-Oct. 5 cottages Breakfast.
Beaches
Anse de Lorient
BEACH—SIGHT | FAMILY | This beach is popular with families and surfers, who like its waves and central location. Be aware of the level of the tide, which can come in very quickly. Hikers and avid surfers like the walk over the hill to Pointe Milou in the late afternoon, when the waves roll in. Amenities: parking (no fee). Best for: snorkeling; surfing; swimming. Lorient.
Hotels
Les Mouettes
$ | RENTAL | FAMILY | This guesthouse offers clean, simply furnished, and economical bungalows with kitchenettes that open directly onto the beach but are also very close to the road. Pros: on the beach; family-friendly; less expensive than many St. Barth options. Cons: basic rooms without TVs; strict prepayment and cancellation policies; no pool, but you’re on the beach. Rooms from: €207 Lorient 0590/27–77–91 www.lesmouetteshotel.com No credit cards 7 bungalows No meals.
COSMETICS
Ligne St. Barth
PERFUME/COSMETICS | Superb skin-care products are made on-site from local tropical plants. Call to request a visit from a beautician or therapist to your villa or yacht. Rte. de Saline, Lorient 0590/27–82–63 www.lignestbarth.com.
FOODSTUFFS
JoJo Supermarché
FOOD/CANDY | This well-stocked counterpart to Gustavia’s supermarket gets daily deliveries of bread and produce. JoJoBurger, next door, is the local surfers’ spot for a (very good) quick burger. Lorient 0590/27–63–53.
Le Ti St. Barth Caribbean Tavern
$$$$ | ECLECTIC | Chef-owner Carole Gruson captures the island’s funky, sexy spirit in her wildly popular hilltop spot. Come to dance to great music with the attractive bar crowd, lounge at a pillow-strewn banquette, or chat on the torch-lighted terrace. Known for: fun nights from beginning to end; lively crowd; legendary barbecue. Average main: €53 Pointe Milou 0590/27–97–71 www.tistbarth.com.
Hotels
Christopher
$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | This longtime favorite of European families delivers a high standard of professionalism and courteous service. Pros: comfortable elegance; family-friendly; reasonable pricing. Cons: on the water but not on a beach; three-night minimum; there’s a bit of walking to get around the complex. Rooms from: €595 Pointe Milou 0590/27–63–63 www.hotelchristopher.com Closed Sept.–mid-Oct. 42 rooms Breakfast.
There is a monument at the crest of the hill that divides St-Jean from Gustavia. Called The Arawak, it symbolizes the soul of St. Barth. A warrior, one of the earliest inhabitants of the area (AD 800–1,800) holds a lance in his right hand and stands on a rock shaped like the island; in his left hand he holds a conch shell, which sounds the cry of nature; perched beside him are a pelican (which symbolizes the air and survival by fishing) and an iguana (which represents the earth). The half-mile-long crescent of sand at St-Jean is the island’s favorite beach. A popular activity is watching and photographing the hair-raising airplane landings (but it is extremely dangerous to stand at the beach end of the runway). Some of the best shopping on the island is here as are several restaurants.
Beaches
Baie de St-Jean
BEACH—SIGHT | FAMILY | Like a mini Côte d’Azur—beachside bistros, terrific shopping, bungalow hotels, bronzed bodies, windsurfing, and day-trippers who tend to arrive on big yachts—the reef-protected strip is divided by the Eden Rock promontory. Except when the hotels are filled, you can rent chaises and umbrellas at the Pearl Beach restaurant or Eden Rock (reopened 2019), where you can lounge for hours over lunch. Amenities: food and drink; toilets. Best for: partiers; walking. St-Jean.
L’Ardoise
$$ | FRENCH | Sit at a shaded communal table at this lively, modern gastropub/wine bar in St-Jean’s Villa Creole shopping enclave any time of the day. Come for first-rate sharing platters of charcuterie, pâté, artisanal cheeses, and sweet or savory crepes. Known for: perfect place to make new friends; reasonable prices; generous portions. Average main: €16 La Villa Créole, St-Jean 0590/77–41–97 www.lardoise.restaurant.
Hotels
Eden Rock
$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | This iconic luxury hotel on the top of a rocky promontory over St-Jean reopened late in 2019 after major post-Irma renovations. Pros: chic clientele; beach setting; stylish facilities. Cons: some suites near street are noisy; some construction or site work may continue for a bit; car needed to tour the entire island. Rooms from: €1,500 Baie de St-Jean, St-Jean 0590/29–79–99, 877/563–7015 in U.S. www.edenrockhotel.com Closed Sept 1.–mid-Oct. 35 units Free Breakfast.
Hotel Manapany
$$$$ | RESORT | On a private beach of Anse de Cayes, this breezy yet luxurious B Signature resort (the first outside of mainland France) is an eco-friendly paradise, with solar panels and electric cars on property. Pros: five minutes to the airport with complimentary transfers; spa faces the sea; open-air restaurant. Cons: not in the action of Baie St-Jean. Rooms from: €550 Anse de Cayes, St-Jean 590 27 66 55 hotelmanapany-stbarth.com 43 villas and suites No meals.
$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | For two generations the Charneau family has offered friendly hotel service, villa advantages, and reasonable rates, making guests feel like a part of the family. Pros: convenient location; wonderful management; on-site spa and gym. Cons: steep walk to hotel, many steps; rooms close to street can be noisy. Rooms from: €350 Colline de St-Jean, St-Jean 0590/27–61–39, 800/651–8366 www.levillagestbarth.com 28 units Free Breakfast.
Les Îlets de la Plage
$$$ | RENTAL | FAMILY | On the far side of the airport and the far corner of Baie de St-Jean, these well-priced, island-style one-, two-, and three-bedroom bungalows are nestled either on the beach itself or among lush tropical gardens on the hillside, with stunning views of the Bay. The units have small kitchens, open-air sitting areas, and comfortable bathrooms. Pros: beach location; apartment conveniences; front porches. Cons: TVs by request and with limited French programming; limited air conditioning; next to airport, so you will hear some small planes taking off. Rooms from: €465 Plage de St-Jean, St-Jean 0590/27–88–57 www.lesilets.com Closed Sept. and Oct. 12 units Breakfast.
Pearl Beach Hôtel
$$ | HOTEL | Formerly Le Tom Beach Hotel, this chic but casual boutique property on busy St-Jean beach is fun for social types; the nonstop house party may well spill onto the terraces and last into the wee hours. Pros: party central at beach, restaurant, and pool; in town; many places of interest are walking distance away. Cons: trendy social scene is not for everybody, especially light sleepers; some noise from the airport; you’ll need a car to get to other beaches. Rooms from: €320 Plage de St-Jean, St-Jean 0590/52–81–20 pearlbeachstbarth.com 12 rooms Free Breakfast.
Nightlife
Le Nikki Beach
BARS/PUBS | This place rocks on weekends at lunch—especially Sunday—when the scantily clad young and beautiful lounge on the white canvas banquettes. St-Jean 0590/27–64–64 www.nikkibeach.com.
CLOTHING
Bamboo St. Barth
CLOTHING | Beach fashions like cotton tunics, cocktails-on-the-yacht dresses, and sexy Australian swimsuits by Nicole Olivier and Seafolly can be paired with sassy sandals and costume jewelry. Pelican Beach, St-Jean 0690/52–08–82 www.facebook.com/bamboo.stbarth.
Black Swan
CLOTHING | This shop has an unparalleled selection of bathing suits, and it also offers beach dresses, hats, caps, and sunglasses. La Villa Créole, St-Jean 0590/52–48–30.
Cabane Saint-Barth
CLOTHING | Stocked with stenciled cotton, gauzy beach tops, great straw fedoras, caftans (for all ages), plus beachy shoes and accessories, this shop is open nonstop every day. Pelican Beach, St-Jean 0590/51–21–02.
Filles des Iles
CLOTHING | In addition to high-quality, flattering French attire and sophisticated swimwear that even women of a certain age can wear, this shop stocks delicious artisanal fragrances and chic accessories, like beautiful sandals. 8 Villa Créole, St-Jean 0590/29–04–08.
Iléna
CLOTHING | Incredible beachwear and lingerie by Chantal Thomas, Sarda, and others includes Swarovski crystal–encrusted bikinis for the young and gorgeous. La Villa Créole, St-Jean 0590/29–84–05.
KIWI St. Tropez
CLOTHING | This popular resortwear boutique for women, men, and kids has a branch in Gustavia, too. In addition to beachwear for everyone, they carry a variety of beach bags and towels. 3 Villa Créole, St-Jean 0590/27–57–08 www.kiwi.fr.
Lili Belle
CLOTHING | Their great selection includes chic, French designer beachwear and resort clothing. Pelican Beach, St-Jean 0590/87–46–14.
Morgan
CLOTHING | Great selection of trendy women’s clothing, accessories, shoes, hats, bags, and more. La Villa Créole, St-Jean 0590/27–57–22.
SUD SUD.ETC.
CLOTHING | This store stocks bags, beachy shell jewelry, as well as gauzy cover-ups. La Villa Creole, St-Jean.
FOODSTUFFS
Marché U
CONVENIENCE/GENERAL STORES | This modern, fully stocked supermarket across from the airport has a wide selection of French cheeses, pâtés, cured meats, produce, fresh bread, wine, and liquor. There is also a good selection of prepared foods and organic items. It’s closed Sunday afternoon. Face à l’aéroport, St-Jean 0590/27–68–16.
Maya’s to Go
FOOD/CANDY | This is the place to go for prepared picnics, meals, salads, and rotisserie chickens from the kitchen of the popular restaurant in Gustavia. The emphasis is on freshness, so menu items change according to season and availability. This is not your average “boxed lunch” place; you could well get wahoo ceviche here, fresh of course, depending on the daily catch. Les Galeries du Commerce, St-Jean 0590/29–83–70 www.mayastogo.com Closed Mon.
St. Barth is a popular yachting and sailing center, thanks to its location midway between Antigua and St. Thomas.
Gustavia’s harbor, 13 to 16 feet deep, has mooring and docking facilities for 40 yachts. There are also good anchorages at Public, Corossol, and Colombier. You can charter sailing and motorboats in Gustavia Harbor for as little as a half day, staffed or bareboat. Ask at the Gustavia tourist office or your hotel for a list of recommended charter companies.
Carib Waterplay
BOATING | On St. Jean beach for over 35 years, this outfit lets you try windsurfing, kayaking, and stand-up paddling; rents waterbikes; and gives kids’ windsurf lessons. You can rent beach chairs for the day here. St-Jean 0690/61–80–81 www.caribwaterplay.com.
Jicky Marine Service
BOATING | This company offers private full-day outings on motorboats, Zodiacs, and 42- or 46-foot catamarans to the uninhabited Île Fourchue for swimming, snorkeling, cocktails, or lunch, as well as scheduled cruises including weekly half- and full-day group cruises and twice-weekly group sunset catamaran cruises. Private fishing charters are also offered, as is private transport from St. Martin. Skippered motorboat rentals run about €1,400 per day. A one-hour group Jet Ski tour of the island is also offered, as are private tours. 26 rue Jeanne D’Arc, Gustavia 0590/27–70–34 www.jickymarine.com.
St Barth Sailing
SAILING | Captain Eric offers his 47’ sailing catamaran Okeanos for day trips for up to 16 people and charters for up to six. Half-day, full-day, and sunset-champagne cruises are available with all the amenities you could ask for either standard or available, or you can charter the boat and sail to the British Virgin Islands, Antigua and Barbuda, or St. Martin and Anguila, all available as seven-day, six-night sailing adventures. 690/19–00–15 saintbarthsailing.com.
St Barth Sailor
SAILING | Want to rent a bareboat or crewed catamaran and take off for your own tour of several islands? Captain Miguel Danet enables you to do exactly that, for a full-day, half-day, or sunset cruise. Extras are available, from special dining choices aboard to massage to scuba to underwater scooters. 690/18–60–66 www.stbarthsailor.com.
Top Loc Boat Rental
BOATING | Charter a catamaran for a day of fun on the water. Rental for a half-day on the catamaran including an open bar is €580. Other rates / itineraries available. Airport Office, St-Jean 0590/29–02–02 www.top-loc.com.
Several dive shops arrange scuba excursions. Depending on weather conditions, you may dive at Pain de Sucre, Coco Island, or toward nearby Saba. There’s also an underwater shipwreck, plus sharks, rays, sea tortoises, coral, and the usual varieties of colorful fish. The waters on the island’s leeward side are the calmest. For the uncertified, there’s a shallow reef right off the beach at Anse de Cayes, which you can explore with mask and fins, and a hike down to the beach at Corossol brings you to a very popular snorkeling spot.
Ouanalao Dive
DIVING/SNORKELING | This well-regarded company offers PADI and CMAS, night dives, private dives and snorkeling, rental of fins, mask and snorkel, and more. Organized dives, a good dive shop, and instruction are offered at the Grand Cul-de Sac beach location. A two-tank dive is €150. A two-hour snorkeling trip to a nearby island starts at €65 per person. Grand Cul de Sac 0690/63–74–34 www.ouanalaodive.com.
Plongée Caraïbea
DIVING/SNORKELING | FAMILY | This company is recommended for its up-to-the-minute equipment, dive boat, and scuba discovery program. They offer nitrox diving and certification, and they also run two-hour group snorkeling trips on the Blue Cat Catamaran (€60 per person), or you can enjoy a private charter from €690. Quai de la République, Gustavia 0590/27–55–94 www.plongee-caraibes.com.
Réserve Naturelle de Saint-Barthélemy
SCUBA DIVING | Most of the waters surrounding St. Barth are protected in the island’s nature reserve, which provides information from its Gustavia office. The diving here isn’t nearly as rich as in more dive-centered destinations like Saba and St. Eustatius (Statia), but the options aren’t bad either. Gustavia 0590/27–88–18 www.reservenaturellestbarth.com.
Splash
SCUBA DIVING | This company offers PADI and CMAS (Confédération Mondiale des Activités Subaquatiques—World Underwater Federation) diver training at all levels. Instructors speak French and English. Although the boat normally leaves daily at 9, 11:30, 2, and in the evening for a night dive, times are adjusted to suit preferences. Seabob scuba scooters are available at reasonable rates. Gustavia 0590/56–90–24.
Most fishing is done in the waters north of Lorient, Flamands, and Corossol. Popular catches are tuna, marlin, wahoo, and barracuda. The annual St. Barth Open Fishing Tournament, organized by Océan Must, is in mid-July.
You can arrange island tours by minibus or car at hotel desks or through taxi operators in Gustavia or at the airport. The tourist office runs a variety of tours for about €50 for a half day for up to eight people. You can also download up-to-the-minute walking and driving tour itineraries from the office’s website.
Helene Bernier
TOUR—SPORTS | Helene does complete island tours of St. Barth. She’s a native and a member of the island council. 690/63–46–09.
JC Taxi
TOUR—SPORTS | Since 1986, native-born Jean-Claude has been providing safe and comfortable transportation in a 10-passenger minivan. Island tours and night driving are available. Gustavia 0690/49–02–97.
St. Barth Mobilité
SPECIAL-INTEREST | This company offers transportation, tours, and guided help for those with limited mobility. 0690/77–66–73 www.stbarthmobilite.com.
WHEN TO GO
High Season: Mid-December through mid-April is the most fashionable and most expensive time to visit.
Low Season: From August to late October, temperatures can grow hot and the weather.
Value Season: From late April to July and again November to mid-December, hotel prices drop 20% to 30%
WAYS TO SAVE
Picnic. Good food requires deep pockets on St. Barth. The easiest way to save is to get supplies at a market and picnic on the beach.
Rent a villa or cottage. There are some reasonable villas and cottages for rent by the week, even during high season.
Explore the island by scooter. Rent an inexpensive scooter or moped from rue de France in Gustavia or around the airport in St-Jean.
Hit the beach. St. Barth’s dozen-plus beaches are all free and open to the public.
BIG EVENTS
January: The St. Barth Music Festival showcases a wide variety of musical and dance performances usually held the second and third weeks of the month. www.stbartsmusicfestival.org
April: St. Barth Festival of Caribbean Cinema celebrates Caribbean-made documentaries and feature films. www.stbarthff.org
October: The Taste of St. Barth is an international gourmet food festival that brings renowned chefs to the island.
AT A GLANCE
Capital: Gustavia
Population: 8,400
Currency: Euro
Money: ATMs are common and dispense only euros; U.S. dollars are accepted in most places as are credit cards.
Language: French
Country Code: 590
Emergencies: 18
Driving: On the right
Electricity: 230v/60 cycles; plugs are European standard with two round prongs
Time: Same as New York during daylight saving time; one hour ahead otherwise
Documents: Up to 90 days with valid passport
Mobile Phones: GSM (900 and 1800 bands)
Major Mobile Companies: Digicel, Orange, CHIPPIE, Dauphin Telecom
St. Barths Online: www.st-barths.com
Office du Tourisme: www.saintbarth-tourisme.com