TOP REASONS TO GO
Beautiful Beaches: Miles of brilliant beach ensure you have a high-quality spot on which to lounge.
Great Restaurants: The dining scene offers both fine dining and delicious casual food on and off the beach.
Fun, Low-Key Nightlife: A funky late-night local music scene features reggae and string bands.
Upscale Accommodations: Excellent luxury resorts coddle you in comfort.
Hidden Bargains: You’ll find a few relative bargains for both food and lodging if you look hard enough.
The island’s name, a reflection of its shape, is most likely a derivative of anguille, which is French for “eel.” (French explorer Pierre Laudonnaire is credited with having given the island this name when he sailed past it in 1556.) In 1631 the Dutch built a fort here, but so far no one has been able to locate its site. English settlers from St. Kitts colonized the island in 1650, with plans to cultivate tobacco and, later, cotton and then sugar. But the thin soil and scarce water doomed these enterprises. Except for a brief period of independence, when it broke from its association with St. Kitts and Nevis in the late 1960s, Anguilla has remained a British colony ever since.
From the early 1800s various island federations were formed and disbanded, with Anguilla all the while simmering over its subordinate status and forced union with St. Kitts. Anguillians twice petitioned for direct rule from Britain and twice were ignored. In 1967, when St. Kitts, Nevis, and Anguilla became an associated state, the mouse roared; citizens kicked out St. Kitts’s policemen, held a self-rule referendum, and for two years conducted their own affairs. To what Time magazine called “a cascade of laughter around the world,” a British “peacekeeping force” of 100 paratroopers from the Elite Red Devil unit parachuted onto the island, squelching Anguilla’s designs for autonomy but helping a team of royal engineers stationed there to improve the port and build roads and schools. Today Anguilla elects a House of Assembly and its own leader to handle internal affairs, and a British governor is responsible for public service, the police, the judiciary, and external affairs. Some tourists may still be wondering whose responsibility it is to repair roads, some of which are absolute patchworks.
The territory of Anguilla includes a few islets (or cays, pronounced “keys”), such as Scrub Island, Dog Island, Prickly Pear Cay, Sandy Island, and Sombrero Island. The 15,000 or so island residents are predominantly of African descent, but there are also many of Irish background, whose ancestors came from St. Kitts in the 1600s. Historically, because the limestone land was unfit for agriculture, attempts at enslavement never lasted long; consequently, Anguilla doesn’t bear the scars of slavery found on so many other Caribbean islands. Instead, Anguillians became experts at making a living from the sea and are known for their boatbuilding and fishing skills. Tourism is the stable economy’s growth industry, but the government carefully regulates expansion to protect the island’s natural resources and beauty. New hotels are relatively small, select, casino-free, and generally expensive; Anguilla emphasizes its high-quality service, serene surroundings, and friendly people.
AIR TRAVEL
There are no nonstop flights to Anguilla from the United States, though there are codeshare connections via Seaborne Airlines through San Juan (SJU). Getting here is much faster if you fly to St. Maarten’s Princess Juliana International SXM Airport and take a nearby ferry to Anguilla, about a half-hour ride away. Air Sunshine also flies several times a day from St. Thomas and San Juan, and Anguilla Air Services flies from St. Maarten and St. Barth. Tradewind Aviation flies in from San Juan. TransAnguilla provides charter services throughout the Caribbean.
LOCAL AIRLINE CONTACTS Air Sunshine. 800/327–8900 www.airsunshine.com. Anguilla Air Services. 264/498–5922 www.anguillaairservices.com. Tradewind Aviation. 800/376–7922, 203/267–3305 www.flytradewind.com. TransAnguilla Airways. 264/497–8690 www.transanguilla.com.
AIRPORT Clayton J. Lloyd International Airport. 264/498–4141 www.gov.ai/airport.php.
BOAT AND FERRY TRAVEL
Public ferries run frequently between Anguilla and Marigot on French St. Martin. Boats leave from Blowing Point on Anguilla approximately every half hour from 7:30 am to 6:15 pm and from Marigot, St. Martin, every 45 minutes from 8 am to 7 pm. You pay a $23 departure tax before boarding ($5 for day-trippers coming through the Blowing Point terminal—but be sure to make this clear at the window where you pay), in addition to the $20 one-way fare. Fares require cash payment. Children under 12 years of age are $10. On very windy days the 20-minute trip can be fairly bouncy. The drive between the Marigot ferry terminal and the St. Maarten airport is vastly faster thanks to the causeway (bridge) across Simpson Bay lagoon. Some ferries operate between Blowing Point and Juliana Airport on the Dutch side of St. Maarten, with crossings four times daily. Fare is $55 one-way/$90 round-trip. Transfers by speedboat to Anguilla are available from a terminal right at the airport at a cost of about $75 per person (arranged directly with a company or through your Anguilla hotel). Private ferry companies listed below run six or more round-trips a day, coinciding with major flights, between Blowing Point and Princess Juliana airport in Dutch St. Maarten. On the St. Maarten side they will bring you right to the terminal in a van, or you can just walk across the parking lot. These trips are $65 one-way or $120 round-trip (cash only) and usually include departure taxes. There are also private charters available.
A late-night sea shuttle service, available to meet the late AA flight from Miami when it is operating, leaves St. Maarten for Anguilla at 11:30 pm. This sea shuttle (leaving Blowing Point Terminal at 10:30 pm) meets that daily American flight from Miami, which arrives at 9:55 pm. The ferry then takes you directly to Blowing Point in Anguilla. The trip costs $80 per adult and $40 per child.
CONTACTS Funtime Ferry. 866/978–8529 www.funtimecharters.com. GB Ferries. 264/235–6205, 321/406–0414 in U.S. www.gbferries.com. Link Ferries. 264/772–4901 www.linkferry.com.
CAR TRAVEL
Although many of the rental cars on-island have the driver’s side on the left as in North America, Anguillian roads are like those in the United Kingdom—driving is on the left side of the road. It’s easy to get the hang of, but the roads can be rough, so be cautious, and observe the 30 mph (48 kph) speed limit. Roundabouts are probably the biggest driving obstacle for most. As you approach, give way to the vehicle on your right; once you’re in the roundabout, you have the right of way.
Car Rentals: A temporary Anguilla driver’s license is required to rent a car—you can get into real trouble if you’re caught driving without one. You get it for $20 (good for three months) through any of the car-rental agencies at the time you pick up your car; you’ll also need your valid driver’s license from home. Rental rates start at about $45 to $55 per day, plus insurance.
CONTACTS Andy’s Car Rental. 264/584–7010 www.andyrentals.com. Avis. Airport Rd. 264/497–2642 www.avisanguilla.com. Bryans Car Rental. 264/497–6407 www.bryanscarrentals.com. Triple K Car Rental/Hertz. Airport Rd. 264/497–2934 www.hertz.com.
TAXI TRAVEL
Taxis are fairly expensive, so if you plan to explore many beaches and restaurants, it may be more cost-effective to rent a car. Taxi rates are regulated by the government, and there are fixed fares from point to point, listed in brochures the drivers should have handy and published in local guides. It’s about $26 from the airport or $22 from Blowing Point Ferry to West End hotels. Posted rates are for one or two people; each additional passenger adds $5, and there is a $1 charge for each piece of luggage beyond the allotted two. You can also hire a taxi for a flat rate of $28 an hour. A surcharge of $4 applies to trips between 6 pm and midnight. After midnight it’s $10. You’ll always find taxis at the Blowing Point Ferry landing and the airport, but you’ll need to call for hotel and restaurant pickups and arrange ahead with the driver who took you if you need a late-night return from a nightclub or bar.
CONTACTS Blowing Point Ferry Taxi Stand. 264/497–6089 caribya.com/anguilla/taxis. Maurice & Sons Exquisite Taxi Services. 264/235–2676 www.msexquisiteshuttle.com.
Dengue, chikungunya, and zika have all been reported throughout the Caribbean. We recommend that you protect yourself from these mosquito-borne illnesses by keeping your skin covered and/or wearing mosquito repellent. The mosquitoes that transmit these viruses are as active by day as they are by night. Many locals swear by a product called “Mosquito Milk,” a roll-on insect repellent available at many Caribbean pharmacies; it has a lemongrass fragrance mosquitoes seem to hate.
Anguilla is known for its luxurious resorts and villas, but there are also some places that mere mortals can afford (and a few that are downright bargains).
Resorts. Anguilla is known for luxurious, expensive resorts.
Villas and rentals. Private villa rentals are becoming more common and are improving in quality of design and upkeep every season as development on the island accelerates. Condos, with full kitchens and multiple bedrooms, are great for families or for longer stays.
Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.
CONTACTS Anguilla Tourist Board. Coronation Ave., The Valley 264/497–2759 www.ivisitanguilla.com.
Sights
Exploring on Anguilla is mostly about checking out the spectacular beaches and resorts. The island has only a few roads. Locals are happy to provide directions, but using the readily available tourist map is the best idea. Visit the Anguilla Tourist Board, centrally located on Coronation Avenue in The Valley.
You can take a free, self-guided tour of the Anguilla Heritage Trail, consisting of 10 important historical sights that can be explored independently in any order. Wallblake House, in The Valley, is the main information center for the trail, or you can just look for the large boulders with descriptive plaques.
Bethel Methodist Church
HISTORIC SITE | Not far from Sandy Ground, this charming little church, which celebrated its 140th anniversary in 2018, is an excellent example of skillful island stonework. It also has some colorful stained-glass windows. South Hill Village.
Heritage Museum Collection
HISTORIC SITE | FAMILY | A remarkable opportunity to learn about Anguilla, this tiny museum (complete with gift shop) is painstakingly curated by Colville Petty. Old photographs and local records and artifacts trace the island’s history over four millennia, from the days of the Arawaks. High points include historical documents of the Anguilla Revolution and photo albums chronicling island life, from devastating hurricanes to a visit from Queen Elizabeth in 1964. You can see examples of ancient pottery shards and stone tools along with fascinating photographs of the island in the early 20th century—many depicting the heaping and exporting of salt and the christening of schooners—and a complete set of beautiful postage stamps issued by Anguilla since 1967. East End at Pond Ground 264/497–4092 $5.
Island Harbour
LOCAL INTEREST | Anguillians have been fishing for centuries in the brightly painted, simple, handcrafted fishing boats that line the shore of the harbor. It’s hard to believe, but skillful pilots take these little boats out to sea as far as 50 or 60 miles (80 or 100 km). Late afternoon is the best time to see the day’s catch, and there are a couple of good, laid-back beach restaurants here. 
TIP → Scilly Cay, the classic little offshore restaurant offering sublime lobster and Eudoxie Wallace’s knockout rum punches, is still hoping to reopen following Hurricane Irma. They have already completed some rebuilding: stay tuned. Island Harbor Rd.
Old Factory
HISTORIC SITE | For many years the cotton grown on Anguilla and exported to England was processed in this beautiful historic building. Later it was a general store, and now it’s the home of Sotheby’s Real Estate. There is a small art gallery on the lower level in an old stone cellar featuring works by the renowned Caribbean plein-air Impressionist artist, Sir Roland Richardson. Government Corner, The Valley 264/498–0123 www.anguilla-beaches.com/anguilla-history-heritage-trail.html Free.
Sandy Ground
BEACH—SIGHT | Almost everyone who comes to Anguilla stops by this central beach, home to several popular open-air bars and restaurants, as well as boat-rental operations. This is where you catch the ferry for tiny Sandy Island, 2 miles (3 km) offshore. 264/476–6534 www.mysandyisland.com.
Wallblake House
HISTORIC SITE | Anguilla’s only surviving plantation house, Wallblake House was built in 1787 by Will Blake (Wallblake is probably a corruption of his name). The place is associated with many a tale involving murder, high living, and the French invasion in 1796. On the grounds are an ancient vaulted stone cistern and an outbuilding called the Bakery, which wasn’t used for making bread at all but for baking turkeys and hams. You can visit the thoroughly and thoughtfully restored house and grounds only on a guided tour, usually offered two days a week. It’s also the information center for the Anguilla Heritage Trail. Call for tour reservations. Wallblake Rd., The Valley 264/497–6613 www.wallblake.ai Free.
Anguilla’s beaches are among the best and most beautiful in the Caribbean. You can find long, deserted stretches suitable for sunset walks and beaches lined with lively bars and restaurants—all surrounded by crystal-clear warm waters in several shades of turquoise. The sea is calmest at 2½-mile-long (4-km-long) Rendezvous Bay, where gentle breezes tempt sailors. But Shoal Bay (East) is the quintessential Caribbean beach. The white sand is so soft and abundant that it pools around your ankles. Cove Bay and Maundays Bay also rank among the island’s best beaches. Maundays is the location of the island’s famous resort Cap Juluca. Meads Bay’s arc is dominated by the tony Four Seasons Resort, and smaller Cove Bay is just a walk away. Anguilla doesn’t permit topless sunbathing.
NORTHEAST COAST
Captain’s Bay
BEACH—SIGHT | On the north coast just before the eastern tip of the island, this quarter-mile stretch of perfect white sand is bounded by a rocky shoreline where Atlantic waves crash. If you make the tough, four-wheel-drive-only trip along the dirt road that leads to the northeastern end of the island toward Junk’s Hole, you’ll be rewarded with peaceful isolation. The surf here slaps the sands with a vengeance, and the undertow is strong—so wading is the safest water sport. Amenities: none. Best for: solitude.
Island Harbour
BEACH—SIGHT | For centuries Anguillians have ventured from these sands in colorful handmade fishing boats. Mostly calm waters are surrounded by a slender beach—good sightseeing, but not much for swimming or lounging. But there are a couple of good restaurants (Hibernia, offering dinner, and Falcon Nest, a casual spot for lunch and dinner). This area is also the departure point for a three-minute boat ride to Scilly Cay, where a thatched beach bar serves seafood. Just hail the restaurant’s free boat and plan to spend most of the day (the all-inclusive lunch—Wednesday and Sunday only—starts at $40 and is worth the price). Amenities: food and drink; toilets. Best for: partiers.
NORTHWEST COAST
Little Bay
BEACH—SIGHT | On the north coast, not far from The Valley, this small gray-sand beach is a favored spot for snorkeling and night dives. It’s essentially accessible only by water, as it’s backed by sheer cliffs lined with agave and creeping vines. The easiest way to get here is a five-minute boat ride from Crocus Bay (about $10 round-trip). There are no amenities, so take some snacks with you. The only way to access the beach from the road is to clamber down the cliffs by rope to explore the caves and surrounding reef—for young, agile, and experienced climbers only. Do not leave personal items in cars parked here, because theft can be a problem. Amenities: none. Best for: snorkeling.
Road Bay (Sandy Ground)
BEACH—SIGHT | The big pier here is where the cargo ships dock, but so do some impressive yachts, sailboats, and fishing boats. The brown-sugar sand is home to terrific restaurants that hop from day through dawn, including Veya, Roy’s Bayside Grille, Dolce Vita, Sand Bar, the Pumphouse, and Elvis’, the quintessential (and rather famous) beach bar. There are all kinds of boat charters available here. The snorkeling isn’t very good, but the sunset vistas are glorious, especially with a rum punch in your hand. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: sunset.
Sandy Island
BEACH—SIGHT | A popular day trip, tiny Sandy Island shelters a pretty lagoon nestled in coral reefs about 2 miles (3 km) from Road Bay, with a restaurant that serves lunch and great islandy cocktails. From November through August you can take the Happiness sea shuttle from Sandy Ground ($10 round-trip). There is mooring for yachts and larger sailboats. Small boats can come right in the channel. TIP → The reef is great for snorkeling. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: partiers; snorkeling; swimming. www.mysandyisland.com.
Shoal Bay
BEACH—SIGHT | FAMILY | Anchored by seagrape and coconut trees, the 2-mile (3-km) powdered-sugar strand at Shoal Bay (not to be confused with Shoal Bay West, at the other end of the island) is one of the world’s prettiest beaches. You can park free at any of the restaurants, including Elodia’s, Madeariman’s, or Gwen’s Reggae Bar & Grill, most of which either rent or provide chairs and umbrellas for patrons for about $20 a day per person. There is plenty of room to stretch out in relative privacy, or you can bar-hop or take a ride on Junior’s Glass Bottom Boat. The relatively broad beach has shallow water that is usually gentle, making this a great family beach; a coral reef not far from the shore is a wonderful snorkeling spot. Sunsets over the water are spectacular. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: sunset; swimming; walking.
SOUTHEAST COAST
Sandy Hill
BEACH—SIGHT | You can park anywhere along the dirt road to Sea Feathers Bay to visit this popular fishing center. What’s good for the fishermen is also good for snorkelers, with a coral reef right near the shore. But the beach here is not much of a lounging spot. The sand is too narrow and rocky. However, for those with creative culinary skills, it’s a great place to buy lobsters and fish fresh from local waters in the afternoon. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: snorkeling; walking.
SOUTHWEST COAST
Maundays Bay
BEACH—SIGHT | The dazzling, platinum-white mile-long beach is especially great for swimming and long beach walks. It’s no wonder that Cap Juluca, one of Anguilla’s premier resorts, chose this as its location. Public parking is straight ahead at the end of the road near Cap Juluca’s Pimms restaurant. You can have lunch or dinner here (be prepared for the cost) or, depending on the season, book a massage in one of the beachside tents. Amenities: food and drink; parking (no fee); toilets. Best for: partiers; swimming; walking.
Meads Bay
BEACH—SIGHT | FAMILY | Arguably Anguilla’s premier beach, Meads Bay is home to many of the island’s top resorts (Malliouihana, Four Seasons) and a dozen fine restaurants. Megayachts moor offshore. The powder-soft champagne sand is great for a long walk and is as beautiful now as it has ever been. Park at any of the restaurants, and plan for lunch. Several of the restaurants offer chaises for patrons. Amenities: food and drink; parking (no fee); toilets. Best for: partiers; swimming; walking.
Rendezvous Bay
BEACH—SIGHT | FAMILY | Follow the signs to Anguilla Great House for public parking at this broad swath of pearl-white sand that is some 1½ miles (2½ km) long. The beach is lapped by calm, bluer-than-blue water and a postcard-worthy view of St. Martin. The expansive crescent is home to three resorts; stop in for a drink or a meal at one, or rent a chair and umbrella at one of the kiosks. Don’t miss the daylong party at the tree-house Dune Preserve, where Bankie Banx, Anguilla’s most famous musician, presides. (Jimmy Buffett recorded a concert there several years back, too.) Amenities: food and drink; parking (no fee); toilets. Best for: partiers; swimming; walking.
Shoal Bay West
BEACH—SIGHT | This glittering bay bordered by mangroves and seagrapes is a lovely place to spend the day. The 1-mile-long (1½-km-long) beach offers sublime tranquility with coral reefs for snorkeling not too far from shore. Hollywood notables are often sighted here and occasionally an ex-president. Punctuate your day with lunch or dinner at beachside Trattoria Tramonto and you can use their chairs and umbrellas. Reach the beach by taking the main road to the West End and bearing left at the fork, then continuing to the end. Note that similarly named Shoal Bay is a separate beach on a different part of the island. Amenities: food and drink; parking (no fee); toilets. Best for: solitude; swimming; walking.
Despite its small size, Anguilla has around 70 restaurants: stylish temples of haute cuisine; classic, barefoot beachfront grills; roadside barbecue stands; food vans; and casual cafés. Many have breeze-swept terraces for dining under the stars. Call ahead—in winter to make a reservation and in late summer and fall to confirm whether the place is open. Anguillian restaurant meals are leisurely events, and service often has a relaxed pace, so settle in and enjoy. Most restaurant owners are actively and conspicuously present, especially at dinner.
What to Wear: During the day, casual clothes are widely accepted: shorts will be fine, but don’t wear bathing suits and cover-ups unless you’re at a beach bar. In the evening, shorts are okay at the extremely casual eateries. Elsewhere, women wear sundresses or nice casual slacks; men will be fine in short-sleeve shirts and casual pants or nice shorts. Some hotel restaurants are slightly more formal, but that just means long pants for men.
Blanchards
$$$$ | ECLECTIC | Creative cuisine, an upscale atmosphere, attentive service, and an excellent wine cellar please the star-studded crowd at Blanchard’s, one of the best restaurants in the Caribbean. Ever changing but always good, the contemporary menu wins over even the most sophisticated palates. Known for: the owners’ book, “A Trip To The Beach,” which has motivated many to visit; exquisite presentation; fine dining. Average main: $43 Long Bay Village 264/497–6100 www.blanchardsrestaurant.com Closed Sun. No lunch.
Blanchards Beach Shack
$$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | This spin-off on the sands of Meads Bay Beach is the perfect antidote to high restaurant prices. Right next to Blanchards, this chartreuse-and-turquoise cottage serves delicious lunches and dinners of lobster rolls, all-natural burgers, tacos, and terrific salads and sandwiches, and there are lots of choices for children and vegetarians. Known for: beach food with a twist; generous portions; “the wait” from 12:30 on. Average main: $12 Long Bay Village 264/498–6100 www.blanchardsrestaurant.com Closed Sun.–Wed. Oct. 1–Nov. 1, and Aug. 22–Aug. 31.
Cafe Celeste at Malliouhana
$$$$ | ECLECTIC | The romantic open-air setting of Cafe Celeste on a promontory overlooking Meads Bay sets the stage for a memorable meal. The café’s dishes are inspired by Mediterranean seafaring cultures, including pistou, a simple soup of vegetables and pesto, sautéed clams and mussels, tender charred octopus, and more. Known for: Malli sunset cocktails; citrus-rosemary lamb chops; goat cheese crème brûlée. Average main: $35 Meads Bay, Long Bay Village 264/497–6111 aubergeresorts.com/malliouhana/dine/cafe-celeste Closed Aug. 28–Oct. 28 No credit cards.
da’Vida
$$$$ | CARIBBEAN | FAMILY | You could spend the whole day dining, drinking, snorkeling, kayaking, shopping, and lounging on the comfortable chairs at this beautifully designed resort, restaurant, and club on exquisite Crocus Bay. Picnic at the Beach Grill (burgers, hot dogs, wraps, salads) or head inside the main building for dumplings, soups, pastas, and pizzas. Known for: perfect beach drinks like rum punch and piña colada; salads that are a meal unto themselves; pizzas with extra toppings. Average main: $38 Crocus Bay 264/498–5433 www.davidaanguilla.com Closed Mon.
Dolce Vita Italian Beach Restaurant & Bar
$$$$ | ITALIAN | Serious Italian cuisine and warm and attentive service are provided in a romantic beachside pavilion in Sandy Ground. It all starts with meticulously sourced seafood and freshly made pasta, which stars in classic lasagna, Gorgonzola-wrapped gnocchi, and a meatless eggplant parmigiana. Known for: red snapper caught the day it is served; swordfish carpaccio; lobster pasta. Average main: $45 Sandy Ground Village 264/497–8668 Closed Sun. and Sept.–mid-Oct. No lunch.
Elvis’ Beach Bar
$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | One of the most famous beach restaurants in the Caribbean, Elvis’ is a hub of nightlife on the island, catering to all kinds of visitors and Hollywood A-listers. The bar is actually a boat; you can sit around it or with your feet in the sand under umbrella-covered tables on the beach. Known for: people-watching; big screen TVs with sports on; Mexican food and potent drinks. Average main: $18 Northern End, Sandy Ground beach 264/498–0101 elvisbeachbar.com.
English Rose Bar and Restaurant
$$ | CARIBBEAN | This middle-of-The-Valley landmark serves generous portions at small prices, and the selection is large for a small restaurant. With such a variety and low prices, lunchtime finds the neighborhood hangout packed with locals. Known for: conveniently located in The Valley, next to Peoples Market; generous portions at reasonable prices; people-watching. Average main: $14 Carter Rey Blvd., The Valley 264/497–5353 Closed Sun.
Hibernia Restaurant and Art Gallery
$$$$ | ECLECTIC | Creative dishes are served in this wood-beam cottage restaurant overlooking the water at Anguilla’s eastern end. The lovely Zen garden has been redesigned with a small waterfall and stone artifacts from Bali, and the intimate dining room (only nine tables) has been updated, also. Known for: eclectic dining; can’t-miss smoked fish appetizer; lavender and coconut ice cream meringue cake. Average main: $36 Harbor Ridge Dr., Island Harbour 264/497–4290 www.hiberniarestaurant.com Closed Mon. and mid-July–Nov.
Jacala Beach Restaurant
$$$ | FRENCH | On beautiful Meads Bay, this restaurant continues to receive raves, with even Martha Stewart dubbing it her “new favorite Caribbean restaurant.” Chef Alain (named one of the Caribbean’s top 25 chefs) and maître d’ Jacques (from the “old” Malliouhana) have created a lovely open-air restaurant that turns out carefully prepared and nicely presented French food accompanied by good wines and personal attention. A delicious starter terrine of feta and grilled vegetables is infused with pesto. Known for: best-in-the-Caribbean reputation; out-of-this-world tuna carpaccio; filet mignon cooked to perfection. Average main: $30 Long Bay Village 264/498–5888 Closed Mon. and Tues. and Aug. and Sept.
Madeariman Reef Bar and Restaurant
$$ | BRASSERIE | This casual, feet-in-the-sand bistro right on busy, beautiful Shoal Bay is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The soups, salads, and simple grills here are served in generous portions with a bit of French flair, and the pizza is cooked in a stone oven. Known for: prime location on Shoal Bay; pizza; huge variety of seafood. Average main: $14 Shoal Bay Village 264/498–5888.
Mango’s Seaside Grill
$$$$ | SEAFOOD | FAMILY | Sparkling-fresh fish specialties have starring roles here. Light and healthy choices include spicy grilled whole snapper and Cruzan rum–barbecued chicken, while the warm apple tart and coconut cheesecake are worth a splurge. Known for: laid-back but high-end atmosphere; Anguillian lobster; Anguilla’s only banana splits. Average main: $36 Barnes Bay 264/497–6479 www.mangosseasidegrill.com Closed Tues. and Aug. and Sept.
Ocean Echo
$$$$ | CARIBBEAN | FAMILY | It’s nonstop every day from lunch until late at this relaxed and friendly restaurant, great for salads, burgers, grills, pasta, and fresh fish. Heartier appetites will enjoy the ribs and steaks. Known for: the “Rumzie,” Anguilla’s rum punch; club sandwiches; lobster salad. Average main: $35 Long Bay Village 264/498–5454 www.oceanechoanguilla.com.
Picante
$$$ | MEXICAN | FAMILY | This casual, wildly popular bright-red roadside Caribbean taquería, opened by a young California couple, serves huge, tasty burritos with a choice of fillings, fresh warm tortilla chips with first-rate guacamole, huge (and fresh) taco salads, seafood enchiladas, chipotle ribs, and tequila-lime chicken grilled under a brick. Passion-fruit margaritas are a must, and there are some serious tequila options. Known for: passion-fruit margarita; chicken tacos; picnic-table seating. Average main: $21 West End Rd., West End Village 264/498–1616 www.picante-restaurant-anguilla.com Closed Tues. and mid-Aug.–Nov. 1. No lunch.
Roy’s Bayside Grill
$$$ | CARIBBEAN | FAMILY | Roy’s is comfort food heaven, whether you crave red snapper fish-and-chips or a hamburger with all the fixings. Come any time of day for good cooking and a friendly vibe. Known for: home-style cooking; Angus burger with great onion rings; Anguillian johnnycakes. Average main: $27 Road Bay, Sandy Ground Village 264/497–2470 www.roysbaysidegrill.com.
SandBar
$$ | ECLECTIC | Tasty and shareable small plates, a friendly beach vibe, and gorgeous sunsets are on offer here, as are cool music, gentle prices, a hammock on the beach, and potent tropical cocktails. The menu changes seasonally, but it always features tapas brought to a new level, usually traditional foods prepared in unconventional ways. Known for: big tapas plates; local snapper; fun food and reasonable prices. Average main: $13 Sandy Ground Village 264/498–0171.
Sharky’s
$$$ | CARIBBEAN | A not-to-be-missed restaurant where Caribbean flavors steal the show, Sharky’s is a result of Chef Lowell Hodge’s perfectionism. He does a few things here and does them well, as a usually full house well attests (“house,” by the way, is an operative word—you’ll dine on the front porch of a private home). Known for: Caribbean dishes; high-end dining for a fraction of the price; few menu items but all are hits. Average main: $24 Rte. 1 West End Village and Albert Hughes Dr. Just past the gas station 264/729-0059 No credit cards.
Straw Hat
$$$$ | ECLECTIC | FAMILY | Charming owners, a gorgeous oceanfront location, sophisticated and original food, and friendly service are why this stylish restaurant has been in business since the mid-1990s. Whether for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, you will find appealing, tasty, and fresh choices to mix up or share. Known for: ahi tuna bites; spicy mahi sandwich; Anguilla’s only “real” bagel. Average main: $32 Frangipani Beach Club, Long Bay Village 264/497–8300 www.strawhat.com Closed Sept. and Oct.
Tasty’s
$$$ | CARIBBEAN | FAMILY | Once your eyes adjust to the kiwi, lilac, and coral color scheme, you’ll find that breakfast, lunch, tapas, or dinner at Tasty’s is, well, very tasty. It’s open all day, so if you land midafternoon starving, head here—it’s just a few minutes’ drive from the airport or the ferry terminal. Known for: classic Caribbean with a creole edge; coconut-crusted parrotfish in banana rum sauce; warm goat cheese salad. Average main: $26 Main Rd., South Hill Village 264/584–2737 Closed Thurs.
Tokyo Bay
$$$$ | SUSHI | FAMILY | This sophisticated sushi and teppanyaki restaurant, dramatically lit and perched at the top of CuisinArt’s spa building, owes its raves to its chef from Nobu in London. Chances are you will find local chefs and other restaurant people here on their night out. Known for: sushi and teppanyaki; teriyaki salmon with Okinawa sweet potato puree; sake bar. Average main: $42 CuisinArt Golf Resort and Spa, Rendezvous Bay 264/498–2000 www.cuisinartresort.com Closed Tues. No lunch.
Trattoria Tramonto and Oasis Beach Bar
$$$ | ITALIAN | FAMILY | The island’s beloved beachfront Italian restaurant features a dual (or dueling) serenade of soft jazz on the sound system and gently lapping waves a few feet away. Pastas are homemade and served in a dozen ways. Known for: classic Italian dining next to the sea; relaxing tropical ambience; celebrity sightings. Average main: $27 Shoal Bay Village 264/497–8819 www.trattoriatramonto.com Closed Mon. and Aug.–Oct.
Veya and Meze at Veya
$$$$ | ECLECTIC | On the suavely minimalist four-sided verandah, stylishly appointed tables glow with flickering candlelight from sea urchin–shape porcelain votive holders. Chic patrons mingle and sip mojitos to the purr of soft jazz in a lively lounge. Known for: Veya sparklers; Moroccan shrimp “cigars”; live music nightly. Average main: $44 Sandy Ground Village 264/498–8392 www.veya-axa.com Closed Sun. and Sept.–mid-Oct. Closed Sat. in June–Aug. and in late Oct. No lunch.
Hotels
Tourism on Anguilla is newer than some Caribbean islands—most development didn’t begin until the early 1980s. The lack of native topography and, indeed, vegetation, and the blindingly white expanses of beach have inspired building designs of some interest; architecture buffs might have fun trying to name some of the most surprising examples. Inspiration largely comes from the Mediterranean: the Greek Islands, Morocco, and Spain, with some Miami-style art deco thrown into the mixture.
Anguilla accommodations basically fall into two categories: grand resorts and luxury resort-villas, or low-key, simple, locally owned apartments and small beachfront complexes. The former can be surprisingly expensive, the latter surprisingly reasonable. In the middle are some condo-type options, with full kitchens and multiple bedrooms, which are great for families or for longer stays. Private villa rentals are becoming more common and are increasing in number and quality of design and upkeep every season as development on the island accelerates.
A good phone chat or email exchange with the management of any property is a good idea, as units within the same complex can vary greatly in layout, accessibility, distance to the beach, and view. When calling to reserve a room, ask about special discount packages, especially in spring and summer. Most hotels include continental breakfast in the price, and many have meal-plan options. But keep in mind that Anguilla is home to dozens of excellent restaurants before you lock yourself into an expensive meal plan that you may not be able to change. All hotels charge a 10% tax, a $1 per room/per day tourism marketing levy, and—in most cases—an additional 10% service charge. A few properties include these charges in the published rates, so check carefully when evaluating prices.
PRIVATE VILLAS AND CONDOS
The tourist office publishes an annual Anguilla Travel Planner with informative listings of available vacation apartment rentals.
RENTAL CONTACTS
Ani Private Resorts
Ani offers private resorts in several countries; in Anguilla, they offer two stunning cliffside villas for up to 24 guests, delivering breathtaking views and total luxury to families or groups looking for pampering. Included in the rental are private boat transfers from St. Martin, rental car, a full-service team (concierge, butler, chef, housekeepers), breakfast, and all beverages. A tennis court, bikes, fitness room, pool, cliffside hot tubs, and playrooms mean you don’t have to leave except for the beach. (Tennis pros, spa services, trainers, and guides are available on demand.) There is room for 100 guests for a party or wedding on the dramatic and romantic promontory. Promotions can include unlimited golf at the CuisinArt course. Little Bay 718/577–1188 www.anivillas.com.
Kishti Villa Collection
This group of stunning four- and five-bedroom villas fuses Eastern and Western aesthetics. The name, from the Urdu for “canoe,” expresses a mystic sense of being in tune with nature and the lords of creation. Appointed with lovely Asian artifacts, villas have huge windows and gorgeous views, giving the sense of actually being at sea. While rates are high, attention is paid to every detail, and everything from a full staff, house manager, chef, and sports equipment is included. This remains a terrific choice for destination weddings and other large family gatherings. Long Bay Village 264/235–2110 www.villakishticollection.com.
Ricketts Luxury Properties
The Ricketts, longtime Anguilla residents, manage lovely luxury properties as well as a selection of less expensive villas. 264/497–6049 www.rickettsluxury.com.
RECOMMENDED HOTELS AND RESORTS
Allamanda Beach Club
$ | RENTAL | FAMILY | Youthful, active couples from around the globe happily fill this quiet, casual, three-story, white-stucco building hidden in a palm grove a short walk from the beach, opting for location and price over luxury. Pros: easy on the pocketbook; young crowd; close to beach. Cons: location requires a car; rooms are pleasant but not fancy; this part of Shoal Bay has suffered recent beach erosion. Rooms from: $169 The Valley 264/497–5217, 305/396–4472 www.allamanda.ai Closed Sept. 20 units No meals.
Altamer
$$$$ | RENTAL | FAMILY | Architect Myron Goldfinger’s geometric symphony of floor-to-ceiling windows, cantilevered walls, and curvaceous floating staircases set on a white-sand private beach is fit for any celebrity (or CEO)—as is the price tag. Pros: stunning decor and beautiful architectural design; outstanding luxury and service; great for big groups. Cons: a bit out of the way; you’ll very likely need a big group to split the price tag. Rooms from: $22,500 Rte. 1, Shoal Bay Village 800/475–9233 www.altamer.com 5 villas Some meals.
Anguilla Great House Beach Resort
$ | RESORT | FAMILY | These traditional West Indian–style bungalows are strung along one of Anguilla’s longest beaches. Pros: real, old-school Caribbean; right on the gorgeous beach; good prices. Cons: very simple rooms; spotty Internet, if any; not exquisite or luxurious, which many seek in Anguilla. Rooms from: $210 Rendezvous Bay 264/497–6061, 800/583–9247 www.anguillagreathouse.com 31 rooms Some meals.
Cap Juluca
$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Strung along 179 acres of breathtaking Maundays Bay, these romantic, domed, Moorish-style villas are a long-time Anguilla favorite, thanks to a caring staff, great sports facilities, and plenty of privacy and comfort. Pros: miles of talcum-soft sand; impeccable, warm service; renovated after Hurricane Irma. Cons: may be booked well in advance; comparatively high rates. Rooms from: $875 Maunday’s Bay 264/497–6666, 264/497–6779 reservations www.belmond.com/hotels/caribbean/anguilla/belmond-cap-juluca 108 rooms Some meals.
Caribella Beach Resort
$$$$ | RENTAL | These spacious Mediterranean-style villas on the broad sands of Barnes Bay are a good deal at the much-discounted weekly rate. Pros: huge amount of space for the cost; beautiful views from huge balconies; the beach makes everything just fine. Cons: basic decor; minimum stays in high season, December, and February; some bedrooms do not have air-conditioning. Rooms from: $495 Barnes Bay 800/969–8002 www.lambertventures.com 6 units No meals.
Carimar Beach Club
$$$ | RENTAL | FAMILY | Recently renovated, this horseshoe of bougainvillea-draped Mediterranean-style buildings on beautiful Meads Bay has the look of a Sun Belt condo. Pros: great value; easy walk to restaurants and spa; excellent beach location. Cons: no pool or restaurant; air-conditioning only in bedrooms; not much privacy in the courtyard. Rooms from: $310 Meads Bay, West End Village 264/497–6881, 866/270–3764 www.carimar.com Closed Sept.–mid-Oct. 24 apartments Some meals.
CuisinArt Golf Resort and Spa
$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Anguilla’s best family-friendly full-service resort has it all: miles of stunning beach, world-class golf, a gorgeous spa and health club, top dining, sports galore, and a creative outdoor play area for kids. Pros: family-friendly; great spa, sports, and on-site restaurants; gorgeous beach and gardens. Cons: food service can be slow; pool area can get noisy; property can be busy. Rooms from: $995 Rendezvous Bay 264/498–2000, 800/943–3210 www.cuisinartresort.com Closed Sept. and Oct. 108 units Some meals.
Four Seasons Resort and Residences Anguilla
$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | On a promontory over 3,200 feet of pearly sand on Barnes Bay, this showpiece (formerly the Viceroy) wows international sophisticates. Pros: state-of-the-art luxury; cutting-edge contemporary design; spacious rooms. Cons: international rather than Caribbean feel; very large resort; expensive. Rooms from: $800 Barnes Bay, West End Village 800/819–5053 in U.S. www.fourseasons.com Closed Sept. 166 units Free breakfast.
Frangipani Beach Resort
$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Perfect for independent travelers, this flamingo-pink Mediterranean-style property perches on the beautiful champagne sands of Meads Bay. The property feels more like a condo than a resort, but there are kayaks, paddleboats, and a Hobie Cat, as well as a tennis court and two swimming pools. Pros: great beach; good location for restaurants and resort-hopping; first-rate on-site restaurant. Cons: some rooms lack a view; more like a condo than a resort; you will not want to leave. Rooms from: $450 Meads Bay, West End Village 264/497–6442, 877/593–8988 www.frangipaniresort.com Closed Sept. and Oct. 19 rooms Free breakfast.
Malliouhana, An Auberge Resort
$$$ | RESORT | This classic luxury hotel perched cliffside over beautiful Meads Bay beach is a fancifully modern beach paradise. Pros: great location on Meads Bay; friendly and attentive service; spacious rooms and bathrooms. Cons: lots of stairs and no elevators; property takes a fair amount of walking to get around; car necessary to explore the island (if you want to). Rooms from: $400 Meads Bay 264/497–6111 aubergeresorts.com/malliouhana Closed late Aug.–late Oct. 46 rooms Free breakfast.
Meads Bay Beach Villas
$$$$ | RENTAL | FAMILY | These gorgeous one-, two-, and three-bedroom villas right on Meads Bay have a cult following, so it can be hard to book them, but if you score a stay here, you’ll understand why. Pros: big private apartments; beautiful beach; private plunge pools. Cons: more condo than hotel in terms of service; very busy resort but service still remains excellent; if you like complaining, you may get bored—this is a top-notch resort. Rooms from: $575 Meads Bay Rd., West End Village 267/685–6495 www.meadsbaybeachvillas.com 4 villas No meals.
Paradise Cove
$$ | RENTAL | FAMILY | Located 500 yards away from Cove Beach, this simple complex of huge, reasonably priced studios and one- and two-bedroom apartments has two whirlpools, a large pool, and tranquil tropical gardens where you can pluck fresh guavas for breakfast. Pros: reasonable rates for a lot of space; great pool; lovely gardens. Cons: 500 yards is far from the beach; bland decor; not luxury accommodations, which some might expect. Rooms from: $375 Cove Bay 264/497–6603 reservations 29 units No meals.
Serenity Cottages
$$ | RENTAL | FAMILY | Despite the name, these aren’t cottages but large, fully equipped, and relatively affordable one- and two-bedroom apartments (and studios created from them) in a small complex set in a lush garden at the far end of glorious Shoal Bay Beach. Pros: quiet end of beach with snorkeling outside the door; weeklong packages; two convenient restaurants. Cons: no pool; more condo than hotel in terms of staff; location requires a car and extra time to drive to the West End. Rooms from: $325 Shoal Bay Village 264/497–3328 www.serenity.ai Closed Sept. 10 units No meals.
Shoal Bay Villas
$$$ | RENTAL | FAMILY | In this old-style property on Shoal Bay’s incredible 2-mile (3-km) beach, studios and one- and two-bedroom apartments all have balconies over the water. Pros: friendly and casual; full kitchens; beachfront. Cons: rather basic; you’ll want a car; luxury touches are lacking. Rooms from: $385 Shoal Bay Village 264/497–2051 www.sbvillas.ai Closed Aug. 30–Oct. 24 12 units No meals.
Turtle’s Nest Beach Resort
$$ | RENTAL | FAMILY | This complex of studios and one- to three-bedroom oceanfront condos is right on Meads Bay Beach, with some of the island’s best restaurants a sandy stroll away. Pros: beachfront; huge apartments; well-kept grounds and pool. Cons: no elevator, so fourth-floor units are a climb (but have great views); seven-night minimum stay in high season; may be busy in high season. Rooms from: $374 Meads Bay, West End Village 264/497–7979 www.turtlesnestbeachresort.com 29 units No meals.
Zemi Beach House Hotel & Spa / Residences
$$$$ | RESORT | This new luxury resort is on a gorgeous, 400-foot stretch of Shoal Bay East’s white-sand beach. Pros: fabulous beach location; desirable amenities such as a lap pool, spa, and a rum and cigar room; beautiful boutique property. Cons: need a car to get around the island; during busiest weeks restaurant service may be less than perfect. Rooms from: $699 Shoal Bay Village 264/584–0001 www.zemibeach.com 69 rooms No meals.
Nightlife
In late February or early March, on the first full moon before Easter, reggae star and impresario Bankie Banx stages Moonsplash, a three-day music festival that showcases local and imported talent. Anguilla Day’s boat races, in May, are the most important sporting event of the year. At the end of July, the Anguilla Summer Festival has boat races by day and Carnival parades, calypso competitions, and parties at night. Some years bring a jazz festival.
Nightlife action doesn’t really start until 11 and runs late into the night. Be aware that taxis are not readily available then. If you plan to take a cab back to your lodging at the end of the night, make arrangements in advance with the driver who brings you or with your hotel concierge.
Dune Preserve
MUSIC CLUBS | There is music most nights at the funky driftwood-fabricated home of reggae star Bankie Banx, who often performs here weekends and during the full moon. By day it’s the quintessential beach bar with BBQ ribs and grilled fresh seafood. At night there’s a dance floor, beach bar, small menu, and potent rum cocktails, of course. In high season there’s a $15 cover. Rendezvous Bay 264/497–6219 www.bankiebanx.net.
Elvis’ Beach Bar
BARS/PUBS | Actually a boat, this is a great place to hear music and sip the best rum punch on Earth. You can also snack on Mexican food (try the goat tacos), play beach volleyball, or watch football on the big TV. The bar is closed Tuesday, and there’s live music Wednesday through Sunday nights in high season—plus food until 1 am. The full-moon LunaSea party doesn’t disappoint. Sandy Ground Village 264/772–0637.
Johnno’s Beach Stop
BARS/PUBS | Now operating Friday, Saturday, and Sunday after recovering from a 2018 fire, Johnno’s offers live music and alfresco dancing and on Sunday afternoon, when just about everybody drops by, there’s live jazz. This is the classic Caribbean beach bar, attracting a funky eclectic mix, from locals to movie stars. Johnno’s continues to have a daytime lunch outpost on Prickly Pear Cay, with excellent snorkeling—it’s a short boat trip from Sandy Ground. Sandy Ground Village 264/476–5272.
Anguilla is by no means a shopping destination, but a couple of boutiques stock cute beachwear and accessories. Hard-core shopping enthusiasts might like a day trip to nearby St. Martin.
The island’s tourist publication, What We Do in Anguilla, has shopping tips and is available free at the airport and in shops. For upscale designer sportswear, check out small boutiques in the larger resorts like the Four Seasons and CuisinArt. Outstanding local artists sell their work in galleries, which often arrange studio tours (or check with the Anguilla Tourist Board).
ART AND CRAFTS
Devonish Art Gallery
CRAFTS | This gallery purveys the wood, stone, and clay creations of Courtney Devonish, an internationally known potter and sculptor, plus creations by his wife, Carolle, a bead artist. Works by other Caribbean artists and regional antique maps are also available. West End Rd., George Hill 264/497–2949 www.devonishart.com.
Hibernia Restaurant and Art Gallery
ANTIQUES/COLLECTIBLES | Striking pieces are culled from the owners’ travels, from contemporary Eastern European art to traditional Indo-Chinese crafts. Harbor Ridge Dr., Island Harbour 264/497–4290 www.hiberniarestaurant.com Closed Mon. and mid-July–Nov. No lunch Sun.
L. Bernbaum Art Gallery
ART GALLERIES | Originally from Texas, Lynne Bernbaum has been working and living in the Caribbean for more than 20 years and exhibits around the world. Her paintings and prints are inspired by the island’s natural beauty but have unusual perspectives and a hint of surrealism. The gallery is open Monday through Saturday 4–8 pm. Sandy Ground Village 264/497–5211 www.lynnebernbaum.com.
Savannah Gallery
ART GALLERIES | Adjacent historic houses contain high-quality works by Anguillian artists; other contemporary Caribbean and Central American art, including oil paintings by Marge Morani; works from the renowned Haitian St. Soleil school; Guatemalan textiles; Mexican pottery; and Haitian metal sculpture, some made from recycled oil drums. Coronation St., Crocus Bay 264/497–2263 www.savannahgallery.com Closed Sun.
CLOTHING
Caribbean Silkscreen
CLOTHING | Caribbean Silkscreen creates designs and prints island-theme golf shirts, hats, sweatshirts, and jackets. South Hill Village 264/497–2272.
Irie Life
CLOTHING | This popular boutique sells vividly hued beach and resort wear and flip-flops, as well as attractive handicrafts, jewelry, and collectibles from all over the Caribbean, many with a Rasta theme. South Hill Village 264/497–6527 www.irielife.com.
Limin’ Boutique
JEWELRY/ACCESSORIES | Visit this attractive boutique for sensational repurposed jewelry and handicrafts such as iPad cases and wristlets made of old sails from Anguilla’s famous racing boats, bracelets made from island musicians’ discarded guitar strings, “Dune Jewelry” made from the sand from local beaches, and sea-salt body scrubs. There is also a good selection of stylish beach cover-ups. West End Main Rd., West End Village 264/583–3733.
Petals Boutique
CLOTHING | This lovely boutique has attractive beachwear, jewelry, and accessories, as well as an assortment of local products. Frangipani Beach Resort, Rte. 1, Long Bay Village 264/497–6442 Closed Mon.
SeaSpray Boutique and Smoothies
CRAFTS | Enjoy a rum punch or a fruit smoothie while you shop for Anguillian arts and crafts, handcrafted jewelry, and charming handmade Christmas ornaments. They stock delicious locally made preserves from Anguilla’s Jammin and other souvenirs. South Hill Roundabout, The Valley 264/235–1650.
ZaZaa
CLOTHING | Sue Ricketts, the first lady of Anguilla marketing, owns three boutiques; on the Main Road in South Hill, near the entrance of Anacaona Boutique Hotel, on Meads Bay, and at the Shoal Bay Beach entrance. They carry Anguillian crafts; wonderful jewelry and beachwear, such as Brazilian bikinis and chic St. Barth goodies; and beach hats, sundries, and souvenirs. Lower South Hill, South Hill Village.
Activities
Anguilla’s expanding sports options include an excellent golf course (at the CuisinArt Golf Resort), designed by Greg Norman to accentuate the natural terrain and maximize the stunning ocean views over Rendezvous Bay. Players say the par-72 course is reminiscent of Pebble Beach. Personal experience says bring a lot of golf balls! The Anguilla Tennis Academy, designed by noted architect Myron Goldfinger, operates in the Blowing Point area. The 1,000-seat stadium, equipped with pro shop and seven lighted courts, was created to attract major international matches and to provide a first-class playing option for tourists and locals.
DIVING
Anguilla boasts seven marine park; sunken wrecks; a long barrier reef; walls, canyons, and hulking boulders; varied marine life, including greenback turtles and nurse sharks; and exceptionally clear water. All make for excellent diving. Prickly Pear Cay is a favorite spot. Stoney Bay Marine Park, off the northeast end, showcases the El Buen Consejo, a 960-ton Spanish galleon that sank in 1772. Divers love finding all 29 cannons. Other good dive sites include Grouper Bowl, with exceptional hard-coral formations; Ram’s Head, with caves, chutes, and tunnels; and Upper Flats, where you are sure to see stingrays.
SCUBA SHACK - Shoal Bay Scuba and Watersports
BOATING | FAMILY | This highly rated PADI dive center runs up to six dives a day (closed Sunday) from two locations: at Roy’s at Sandy Ground, and in West End. Dives with full equipment start at $130. There is a discount for multiday dives, and advanced courses are available. Snorkeling trips are available; daily snorkeling rentals are $20; weekly rate is $120. Numerous kids’ programs and a PADI Jr. certification are available; the minimum age is 8 years old. The shop sells masks, snorkels, fins, T-shirts, hats, shorts, and SPF-50 water shirts. Private dives, snorkeling and sightseeing charters, private fishing charters, and sunset cruises are also offered. Sandy Ground Village 264/235–1482.
GOLF
CuisinArt Golf Resort
GOLF | This Greg Norman course, a $50 million wonder, qualifies as one of the best golf courses in the Caribbean. Thirteen of its 18 holes are directly on the water, and it features sweeping sea vistas, elevation changes, and an ecologically responsible watering system of ponds and lagoons that snake through the grounds. Players including President Bill Clinton have thrilled to the spectacular vistas of St. Maarten and blue sea at the tee box of the 390-yard starting hole—the Caribbean’s answer to Pebble Beach. An attractive Italian restaurant serves lunch. The course typically closes the second half of October for maintenance. Dress requirements include long shorts or slacks and a collared shirt. Rendezvous Bay 264/498–5602 www.cuisinartresort.com $299 for 18 holes ($100 resort guests), $225 for 9 holes ($75 hotel guests) 18 holes, 7200 yards, par 72.
A round-the-island tour by taxi takes about 2½ hours and costs about $55 for one or two people, $5 for each additional passenger. Special-interest nature and culture tours are available.
Bennie’s Travel & Tours
TOUR—SPORTS | One of the island’s more reliable tour operators also arranges private boat charters, event planning, real-estate tours, and personal security services. Blowing Point Village 264/497–2788 www.benniestravel.com.
ECOTOURISM | FAMILY | Ecotourists, photographers, families, and bird-watchers can enjoy a variety of tours of Anguilla’s wildlife and wetlands. Tours can be customized by age of the group and interests, and range in time and price. Pickup is at your hotel or villa. Tours include use of binoculars, guidebooks, and bottled water. They also offer a seven-day/six-night tour package. 264/584–0346 natureexplorersanguilla.com From $50.
HORSEBACK RIDING
Seaside Stables
HORSEBACK RIDING | FAMILY | Ever dreamed of a sunset gallop (or slow clomp) on the beach? A bareback ocean romp is roughly $125, private rides any time of day are about $90 per hour, and morning and afternoon group rides are around $75. Prior riding experience is not required, as the horses are very gentle. Choose from English, Western, or Australian saddles. Paradise Dr., Cove Bay 264/235–3667 www.seaside-stables.com $90 private ride, $75 group ride.
SEA EXCURSIONS
A number of boating options are available for airport transfers, day trips to offshore cays or neighboring islands, night trips to St. Martin, or just whipping through the waves en route to a picnic spot.
Calypso Charters
BOATING | Book a private or semiprivate charter with Calypso on one of their five powerboats for a trip around Anguilla, a fishing trip, or a sea excursion to St. Barth, St. Maarten, or the surrounding islands. They offer a lovely two-hour sunset cruise leaving from Cole Bay every Tuesday and Thursday. They also provide airport transfers. Sandy Ground Village 264/584–8504 www.calypsochartersanguilla.com.
Funtime Charters
BOATING | With five powerboats from 32 to 38 feet, this charter and shuttle service arranges private and scheduled boat transport to the airport, including luggage services ($70 per person one way for adults); day trips to St. Barth; and other powerboat excursions. The air-conditioned 42-seat Sunshine Express runs to SXM in the late night and early morning, as well as interisland excursions. Cove Bay 264/497–6511 www.funtimecharters.com.
Junior’s Glass Bottom Boat
DIVING/SNORKELING | FAMILY | Junior has a great reputation for showing you the underwater scenery of Anguilla, starting with reef trips on his glass bottom boat. For an underwater peek at sea turtles and stingrays without getting wet, catch a ride on this boat. Guided snorkeling trips and instruction are available, too; Junior is great with kids and very knowledgeable. It’s best to book in advance, especially during holidays. Hotel transport is available. His services are $40–$80 per person per hour depending on what you’d like to do; children 7 years and under are free. Shoal Bay Village 264/235–1008 www.junior.ai.
Sandy Island Enterprises
BOATING | Picnic, swimming, and diving excursions to Prickly Pear Cay, Sandy Island, and Scilly Cay are available through this outfit, which also rents Sunfish and windsurfers and arranges fishing charters. The Sandy Island sea shuttle Happiness leaves from the small pier in Sandy Ground daily November through August and by reservation in September and October. Sandy Ground Village 264/497–6534 www.mysandyisland.com Open by reservation only Sept. 1–Oct. 31.
Surf AXA
SURFING | Surf AXA offers everything for beginner or experienced surfers and paddleboarders, including instruction and rentals. They offer guided surf tours, too. ECO land tours and stand-up paddleboard rentals are now available. South Hill Village 264/583–4613 surfaxa.com $20/hr or $50/day surfboard rental; $25/hr or $60/day stand-up paddleboard rental.
WHEN TO GO
High Season: Mid-December through mid-April is the most fashionable and most expensive time to visit.
Low Season: From August to late October, temperatures can grow oppressively hot and the weather muggy.
Value Season: From late April to July and again November to mid-December, hotel prices drop 20% to 50%.
WAYS TO SAVE
Eat at roadside vendors. Head to “The Strip” in The Valley for local food trucks, or try one of the weekend pop-up BBQs.
Stay in a beach bungalow. Several local hotels have retained a true West Indian flair and lower prices.
Beach it up. All beaches on Anguilla are free and open to the public; the best include Meads Bay, Rendezvous Bay, and Shoal Bay.
BIG EVENTS
March: Musicians join together in the annual Moonsplash music festival. www.olaidebanks.wix.com
March–April: Celebrate Anguilla culture during Easter weekend’s Festival del Mar. www.ivisitanguilla.com
May: The national love for boat racing peaks at the annual Anguilla Regatta. www.anguillaregatta.com
July–August: Anguilla Summer Fest features two weeks of pageants, parades, and fireworks.
AT A GLANCE
Capital: The Valley
Population: 15,045
Currency: Eastern Caribbean dollar; pegged to U.S. dollar
Money: Some ATMs are closed weekends; credit cards accepted; U.S. dollar widely accepted
Language: English
Country Code: 1 264
Emergencies: 911
Driving: On the left
Electricity: 110v/60 cycles; plugs are U.S. standard two-prong
Time: Same as New York during daylight saving time; one hour ahead otherwise
Documents: A valid passport and must have a return or ongoing ticket
Major Mobile Companies: LIME, Digicel
Anguilla Tourist Office: www.ivisitanguilla.com
