Kazakhstanis are very sociable, and on a long journey you can expect a lot of questions and conversation, sharing of food, and offers of help.
When planning your visit the first thing you should take into account is the size of the country and the huge distances between towns. Kazakhstan covers such a large area that it has two (formerly three) time zones. The climate, and therefore the weather, varies significantly across the country. Most importantly, traveling takes a lot of time, especially by road—most roads are in a far from perfect state.
For example, imagine a sightseeing trip from Almaty to the most famous attraction, the Hodja Ahmet Jassawi Mausoleum in Turkestan. It is a worthwhile trip, but it takes almost twenty hours by train, or twelve to fifteen hours by car, and if you fly it will still take another couple of hours to get to the site by road from Shymkent Airport. To make the most of the journey many tourists go on to the excavation site of the ancient city of Otyrar and the tomb–mosque of Arystan Baba who, according to legend, was Hodja Ahmet Jassawi’s teacher. These are a further two hours’ drive away on a poor road. All in all, it is long, tiresome journey, which is better broken into smaller parts. Having time and lots of energy are essential for travel in Kazakhstan.
Flying is the most reliable and smoothest way to travel between Kazakhstan’s larger cities. The local carrier, Air Astana, has a modern fleet of aircraft and serves a broad network. Smaller local airlines fly to other destinations within the country, but none of these operate in EU airspace. They are fine by Kazakh standards, and the only problem with air travel from a local perspective is the bad winter conditions, which often cause long delays.
Traveling by train is a good option, and provided you have the time is reasonably good value for money. A trip from Almaty to a town in western Kazakhstan takes nearly three days. Not all cities are directly linked by rail, which means changing trains. The two main types of train are Talgo Express and standard.
Talgo Express trains run direct, nonstop, between the largest cities (Almaty to Taraz and Shymkent, and Almaty to Karagandy, Astana, Kokshetau, and Petropavlovsk).
Standard trains are of two types: “fast” and “passenger.” The fast trains have fewer stops and provide better on-board service. Within these there are three classes to suit personal comfort, privacy, and budgeting: SV (special wagon), with two berths per cabin; kupe, with four berths per cabin (two above and two below); and platskarta, which are rows of berths along an open corridor.
To buy tickets you must show your passport (you will also need it to board the train), and pay with cash. At a local station this is best done in advance, because it can be quite a challenging experience, with offhand staff and long, chaotic lines. In the bigger cities a number of offices around town sell tickets in a less stressful atmosphere for a small commission.
Every train has a restaurant car—a communal eating place with a limited menu, always crowded and sometimes dangerous, as strong alcohol is always available. Between the carriages are smoking areas, and if you want to move from one carriage to another it is hard to avoid breathing in smoke.
Bed linen will be brought to you by the provodnik (attendant), who will deal with all the practicalities of the journey and may offer to make you tea—for a tip.
Most intercity roads in Kazakhstan have a single carriageway. They aren’t generally bad, but there are always a few parts of every road that are in need of serious repair. These and other factors, such as the risky driving culture and the poor state of some of the vehicles, make road trips fairly unsafe.
Yet intercity shuttle buses are very popular, especially for distances up to about three hundred miles (500 km). They are much cheaper and faster than the train, and cover all destinations. However, for lengthy trips lasting more than five or six hours intercity shuttles are not nearly as comfortable or as safe as trains. For short trips of up to four or five hours minibuses (called marshrutkas) are a popular alternative. They are a little more expensive than the shuttles, but are faster. They wait outside bus and train stations, and set off when full.
Tickets can be bought at local bus stations or from the driver on board. In the latter case your ticket will not be refundable. If the shuttle or marshrutka breaks down on the way you will have to pay for a seat on another bus or minibus on the same route.
Like marshrutkas, private intercity taxis can be found outside bus and train stations and can be rented for sole occupancy or shared with other passengers. A seat in a shared taxi costs double the price of a seat in a marshrutka. Unlike intercity shuttles and marshrutkas most private taxis are not licensed public carriers, and you, the traveler, must understand that you are the one who takes the risk on the road. You have to be careful with your personal safety. A safer option is to hire a taxi from a local company, though this is more expensive.
The best way to travel around the bigger cities is by taxi. Some belong to taxi companies, where the fare is set in advance, but there are also many private taxis. You simply raise your hand while standing on the roadside and within two or three minutes at least one “civilian” driver is likely to stop. However, you should understand the dangers of getting into a stranger’s private car, especially at night, and a woman on her own is advised not to take this risk.
Neither official nor unofficial taxis have meters, and few can provide receipts. There are generally accepted unofficial tariffs, which you should try to find out from a local friend. You agree on the fare before getting into the car, which may involve some bargaining. A tip is not expected.
As with intercity travel, the bus network in towns and cities is extensive, but it is hard to learn the routes if you are new to the place. City buses are very crowded during peak hours and don’t stick to their timetables. People don’t wait in line, and stopping between assigned stops is prohibited, so boarding a bus at busy times can be a daunting experience.
On the bus a conductor will collect your fare—which will be low—and answer questions (in Russian or Kazakh) about the route and timetable. Buses run less frequently after 9:00 p.m., and the latest you can catch one is around 11:00 p.m.
Almaty has a small network of trams, with only two routes (reduced from the ten operating in their heyday), that give the city a certain charm. Trolleybuses were first introduced to Almaty in the 1940s as an ecologically friendly option, and they are much loved by the city’s inhabitants. Unfortunately both trams and trolleybuses have become economically unviable, but they still run.
The Metro has just one line, which opened in 2011, and a second is under construction. With high ceilings and finely decorated walls, the Metro resembles that in Moscow—except for its limited coverage of the city. At present it is not the quickest way to get around Almaty.
In Almaty, Astana, Atyrau, and some other cities you can rent a car. Hiring a driver along with the car is the safest option and costs 100 to 150 US dollars a day, excluding fuel. For intercity journeys it is best to choose a four-wheel-drive vehicle because of the rough roads, which may have potholes and seasonal hazards, such as black ice. These cars are popular in Almaty and Astana, and visitors may be surprised to see so many massive vehicles driven by city motorists.
If you intend to drive yourself, you will need an international driver’s license, but you can apply for a Kazakh license after six months’ residence. You should know that the wearing of safety belts is obligatory in the front seats, but not in the rear seats—in fact many cars do not have rear seat belts.
Kazakhstani driving in general is rather aggressive. Many people buy driver’s licenses illegally, without having passed a test, and this lowers the general standard and quality of driving, despite the numerous fines imposed. Therefore driving can be erratic, and you should be ready for sudden moves by cars around you, as well as the frequent use of horns and lights. Everyone seems to want to overtake. Occasionally you may be given a courteous flash, meaning that you are being given the right of way. Minor collisions on the road are usually settled informally with an offer of cash, or the guilty party pays directly for the repair.
Gas and service stations are not widespread outside cities and towns, so it is advisable to carry extra petrol cans for long journeys. The system of traffic signs has been improved since Soviet days, but is not up to European standards. Intercity roads are poorly lit at night, so beware of potholes and other possible hazards, such as animals on the road and stationary vehicles without warning lights. Also there is not always clear signage of road works and damaged roads. During strong snowfalls some intercity roads are closed for days, so if you are planning a trip during the winter it is important to check local news reports.
Between the cities there are small private roadside cafés and guesthouses. The quality and service vary, but most are simple, targeting truck drivers. Their facilities are generally very basic, often just consisting of a squat toilet; if you have to pay to use the facilities they will be less basic.
Buying a car in Kazakhstan is a tiresome business, with lots of bureaucracy. There is a lengthy procedure for registering the car with the state traffic police and notarizing the deal. This needs to be done with care, so be sure to check all the documentation that goes with the car, such as insurance and the tax invoice.
There is a policy of zero tolerance for drunk driving, which means that driving with a blood-alcohol level greater than zero is an offence. The intercity speed limit is 110 kmph (nearly 70 mph). In towns and cities it is usually 60 kmph (nearly 40 mph), unless there is a traffic sign telling you otherwise. For example, if you go under a bridge or into a tunnel, or if there is a school or kindergarten ahead, the speed limit will drop to 40 kmph (25 mph). There are a few speed cameras around larger cities, but rules are generally enforced by traffic police. If you are stopped for breaking a rule, your license will be taken away. Getting it back involves a visit to the local traffic police office to pay the fine, which takes a lot of time and money (fines are high). Many drivers prefer the easier and cheaper way of bribing officers. Unfortunately, bribery has become a part of the driving culture on the roads of Kazakhstan, despite numerous government and public attempts to stop it.
Kazakhstan is the most expensive country in Central Asia. In the cities of Almaty and Astana and the major towns the high cost of hotels doesn’t necessarily translate into quality. At the top end are international chains—Hyatt, InterContinental, and Rixos—and there are the Radisson SAS in Astana and Holiday Inn in Almaty. There are mid-range and budget options, or you could try one of the health resorts, or sanatoriums, which can be booked through local travel agencies. Staying in a private home is another convenient option for a visiting family. The best way to find one of these is by looking in the local newspapers (if you can read Russian) or by going through a local real estate agency.
In provincial towns, Soviet-inspired establishments—which are not the most welcoming places—prevail, and in a remote area you are likely to be limited to a spartan hostel or nothing at all. Visitors, however, are not likely to be left without a roof over their heads, for traditional Kazakh hospitality still rules in the rural areas.
There is reasonably good free national health care for Kazakhstanis. Foreign visitors usually go to private clinics. Full travel and medical insurance, arranged before your visit, is recommended. Consult your own country’s health authorities before your visit about vaccinations, especially if you will be coming for a long stay or traveling to remote areas.
Once in Kazakhstan, most of the usual health warnings apply. General precautions, such as washing your hands regularly and not drinking tap water unless it has been boiled, should keep harmful bacteria at bay. On the whole, be vigilant about what you eat and drink. The careful washing of fruit, even dried fruit, and vegetables is strongly recommended. Don’t be tempted to sample a raisin or a slice of apple in a local fruit market, despite pressing invitations from the vendors. In rural areas, where flies are common in the warm season, be careful about eating from a dastarkhan (festive table) that might have been set up hours earlier. Be especially wary at intercity roadside cafés, of ready-made food at markets, and of snacks sold by vendors on trains and buses.
If possible, avoid being bitten by insects, and by blood-sucking ticks in the mountainous areas, such as those surrounding Almaty. Use a good repellent.
For emergency assistance call 103, but emergency operators, as well as medical staff, are likely to speak only Russian or Kazakh. Besides, waiting for an ambulance can take time, so it is best to go to the hospital (called BSMP, an acronym in Russian for Free Emergency Medical Service) by car with someone accompanying you, or by taxi. Then contact your insurance company. You can rely on local doctors for a general diagnosis, but specialist treatment or an operation is best done in your home country.
In Almaty, the medical rescue service International SOS (www.internationalsos.com) works twenty-four hours a day. Interteach (www.interteach.kz) also specializes in providing medical assistance to foreigners in English and has branches in other towns.
Apteka (in Russian) and Darikhana (in Kazakh) both mean “pharmacy,” and there are plenty in every town and city. Most drugs can be bought without a prescription. Note that your usual brands might not be available. In Almaty the largest pharmacies are Centralnaya Apteka No. 2 (91/97 Furmanov Street) and Apteka Plus (175 Auezov Street).
Crime is steadily on the rise, especially in the cities of Almaty and Astana, which are magnets for people from all around the country in search of work. Nevertheless, on the whole, both locals and visitors can feel safe as long as they take basic commonsense precautions. As in many big cities, foreigners can be a target for muggers at night, especially in and around popular night bars and clubs and where alcohol is consumed. Visitors should avoid walking alone at night, and keep valuables, including passports, out of sight. Avoid taking unofficial private taxis at night, unless they have been prearranged and can be trusted. If you are traveling on a train, make sure you lock your compartment door before going to sleep.
Female visitors should be aware that walking anywhere at a late hour alone, or unaccompanied by a male friend, is unwise and dangerous. Provocative clothing and heavy makeup will attract intimidating stares, and any indecent approach should be handled peacefully. If you are seriously threatened, shout for help from anybody nearby.
Many foreign travelers complain about police harassment on the street. The police have the right to check anyone’s documents, and this can lead to attempts to extort cash—a practice currently being tackled by the government.
Almaty and other southeastern provinces north of the Tien Shan are in an active seismic zone. From time to time there are tremors in the Altai Mountains in the northeast. Levels of radiation in Kazakhstan are within international safety limits and pose no threat, even to people living in the city of Semey, close to the former Soviet nuclear testing area.
You need a permit to travel in areas along the border with China, which is a hangover from the Soviet period. This is best arranged through a local travel agent, as it can take a long time and a lot of bureaucracy to get such a permit. Travelers should also note that there have been reports of border guards firing on smugglers crossing the border illegally, and Uzbek border stations are closed from time to time without prior announcement.
