Kazakhstan, one of the largest countries in the world, was long hidden from the West—first under Russian tsarist rule and then behind the Soviet Iron Curtain. After gaining independence in 1991 the country continued to remain unnoticed among all the “stans” of Central Asia; now, twenty years on, it has emerged as a modern state with far-reaching ambitions. Free-market reforms and rising oil exports have made Kazakhstan the richest country in Central Asia. It has a vibrant economy, a stable business environment, and a friendly social scene.

The first thing that takes visitors by surprise is the sheer size of the country. For many of those who are reading this book on the inward flight, much of the journey will be over Kazakh land. Seen from the sky, the grasslands are a seemingly endless expanse, but although they may look a little featureless and dull to you they are a source of immense pride to the Kazakhs: these are lands they have kept against all the odds during their grim history. If people on the plane cheer and applaud on landing, they will be Kazakhs, rejoicing at the return to their beloved country.

The modern Kazakh people emerged after the rise and fall of a succession of medieval Turkic states, before being absorbed into the Russian Empire. They were self-reliant pastoral nomads, open hearted, generous, and tolerant, with laws of hospitality that put guests above all. These characteristics have survived to this day, so don’t be put off by the serious faces that you will see in the street—these are just the masks that people grew accustomed to wearing to survive the hardships of the Soviet era. Once you get to know the local people, their genuine warmth, kindness, and loyalty will soon become evident.

There are many contrasts and extremes in Kazakhstan, and you may not like everyone and everything you see. You may find some of the apparent contradictions bewildering—not least, Asians speaking Russian, who follow a mixture of Muslim, Soviet, and earlier pagan traditions. This book sets out to introduce you to this complex, unknown nation. It guides you through its history, traditions, and social values so that you will be able to identify the signs of its Soviet totalitarian heritage, of Russian cultural influence, and of the Asian mentality with its deep respect for power and hierarchy. It tells you about the Kazakhs at work, at home, at leisure, and in the street; it describes how they celebrate their holidays, and what they eat and drink.

A review of Kazakhstan’s dynamic business culture and economy shows that honesty and straight dealing are paramount when conducting business with local partners. Foreigners find it very pleasing to work and live in a country that is truly open and receptive to outside influences. All that is needed is a little patience and tact, and you will be rewarded many times over.

Kazakhstanga khosh keldingiz!

Welcome to Kazakhstan!